rev210

West shock in subiaco (they realy should pay me a commision). $105 there abouts Do it your self, it's not at all hard. You will need 17mm socket / 14mm socket , torque wrench $14 from marlows (buy one you will use it again one day). You will also need a few band-aids as the freaking nuts are on tight. Quite a few guys on the forum have done this mod so you will get no shortage of advice, otherwise Westshock can do it for you.

No its not different at all, the series II turbo doesnt spool any quicker than a series 1. It's a trade off between getting on boost for a hard launch and wheel spining the car all the way down the track. Skylines in general (GTR exepted) have crap takeoff traction, made worse by people putting the lowest profile tyres on. Get the KCA349 kit for your diff cradle from whiteline and you should have far less wheelspin even at 3500rpm.

Shouldn't lose power if it doesn't leak boost , most don't, though at 25psi you might have to see. I think turbosmart actually make a non-venting aftermarket BOV, try that if you have no joy with the stockie.

The 040 flows alot more 235L/hr vs 200L/hr. The bigger pump will be a slight over kill in regards to power but, it will outlast the smaller pump as it doesn't have to work as hard, after all they are just glorified DC electric motors. Why not buy a 1500HP rated Aeromotive pump 900lbs of fuel an hour (empty your tank in a couple of minutes) HOW COOL IS THAT! Only $1300!

Circuit racers will be alot better than your low profile street tyres let me tell you! 2nd hand Drag slicks are usually 14 or 15 inch jobs so finding a suitable rim will be a hassle. Why not save up for some BFG Drag radial TA's they are low profile and are real 'sticky' street tyres. About $300 or less a pop.

Grandenko can have the title for stock turbo/ stock ecu/ stock ic, then.

14 odd skylines on show! Damn I am unlucky sometimes:( Oh well I'll just have to wait for a mid week event so I can go too. That mid 13 of 'buffy's (may she rest in peace) is still looking a fair way off for our GTST boys. Who will be first to take the glory?

Geez, Garret GTs even HKS turbo's (when got from Nengun) are about that price "NEW". I guess its cheap if a big part of the cost is labour to remove and fit the turbo. Otherwise I'd go buy a new one. The GT25's are 'bolt on', will make more power and be more reliable.

Excellent Smithers! How much more than last time dude.

Yeah why not leave them in. If they sit over the rear wheels they will help a little. taking them out will improve the terminal speed and the 'potential time'(only if you get the same traction). Rear suspension should be setup for traction, don't know if softer is better for that in your case. Front suspension on the soft setting is a good idea tho'.

So Adam, Have u got da power yet?

No not really. Backing off once you have started to spin means you have already given away your 60" and plenty of time on the ET. It's probably not a bad idea if you can't avoid wheel spin in the first place. Test this idea. Try launching at a base rpm you are sure won't spin (like taking off quick at the lights). Each time you launch increase the rpm till you launch with a small amount of spin. Back off a little and use that, if your clutch can handle a little bit of slip (Stock ones can't) you can use this to get boost up. Believe it or not putting some weight in the boost for those who spin without control (read all skylines) will help with traction. People have used sand bags in the past. Have fun:D

Looks like I should ask the Westshock boys for some commision. BTW you may find some axle hop if your rear shocks are stock stiffness. Launch with plenty of revs to prevent the car looking like a mad rabbit (test what rpm works best before going down to the track, you might need a little more)

Dude my brother is a very good spray painter, I'll get his details for you next time I call past.

Rob, Thats pinging alright, if the 'rattle noise' is whilst under load. Axle hop wise it might pay to have a look at some springs for the back/front. In terms of spring rate I would try to leave the front alone, and just pop in some stiffer units in the back. Give a couple of suspension joints a call and ask them if what spring rate at the back will fix the axle hop. Once you find out the concensus on rate and height find out which brand of spring offers the cheapest solution. Kings/Pedders/k-mac blah blah blah are all made well enough, the rate and height are the important things. Change the shocks only when they are buggered (once again save the money), the stock rear shocks will have a nice long 'travel' which is what you need for the back. Once you get it sorted you can post the rear rate for all the R33 boys and girls.

Good to hear Rob! My concern was you might get a little bit of axle hop. Sounds like I'll have to get my torque wrench back off you and fit my kit on straight away. How long did it take BTW?

Geez, I heard you already have a 'tyre-smoker' with the engine as is! You are going to have to do something at the back end to reduce rubber melt downs. May I suggest the purchase of a rear chassis kit. And starting a "frequent fryer" program with your regular tyre joint. To quote a conversation I had with a friend ; Friend " I'll just get a cat-back exhaust and a boost controller, then I'll be happy just with that." Me " Sure you will be happy but, you won't be satisfied ". BTW I think you turbo is too small to make full use of the 550's (not that they are a bad idea or won't work well, cause they will). OH NO another money spending justification!

Adam Had the tune done yet?

Not worth the extra money, King springs are very good indeed. You just need to make sure the spring rate and ride height are the best for performance. The rule of thumb for an R33 is lower 1-1/12 inch up front. Even less on the back.

Think the part number is; KCA349. It takes a week or two to send over from the east. Install is very simple but as i said before I am Mr Slack-bastard.

Its a whiteline kit , West shock in subiaco can get them in- cost $104. I have yet to plug mine in, slack - raining - yet to borrow a trolley jack take your pick. You can use the kit (just some nolothane bushes) to make the car squat (for traction) or put on another way cause more wheelspin for drift. Doesn't do a thing to the cars looks Adam32. And has little bearing on street driven handling.

Its a whiteline kit , West shock in subiaco can get them in- cost $104. I have yet to plug mine in, slack - raining - yet to borrow a trolley jack take your pick. You can use the kit (just some nolothane bushes) to make the car squat (for traction) or put on another way cause more wheelspin for drift.

I can. A 13.9 is not a big ask, it's well within the power to weight ratio. However the curse of the skyline is a lack of transfer in the rear chassis cradle, causing excess wheelspin. It's not helped by lowering the front alot either. Alot of guys have good terminal speeds without much in the 60'. I think $105 spent on the rear chassis will see a few guys & gals run much better times.

I go to Marows balcatta for my regular warranty service. Cost bout $80. Includes Mobil 1 synthetic oil and filter change, no changing plugs etc. (hey at least not for 100,000kms). Service comes with a warranty too. Anthony there has one kick arse GTR. Why go to a tuning joint for basic stuff like a service? I'd do mine myself but, I have to for warranty.

disconnect the battery, turn on the lights (they wont come on of course) and bingo! Plug in the battery, and for the next 20kms give it hell while the ecu learns.