rev210

The ute? I don't need to tell you how much it will cost you to have the 5.7 strengthened to handle 700+HP, and how often you will rebuild it once it does put out that much. 2540's can flow 350+ HP each no worries. I've got a mate at a turbo joint, I'll ask how much for the GT2540s new with warranty for ya.

yeah just do it once tho', for an adjustment to our crappy fuel. Reseting it every time you do a mod doesn't do any favours, I can assure you. I tried doing mine after a series of mods and it farquared the AF ratio up top. Don't ask what I did to get it right again.

Dude, You are looking at about 5k or so for 2, just depends on the horsepower spec you want. Have you got a GTR already?

Me thinks maybe. NGk and the like have often got a number indicating the effective temp range of the electrode. For instance a ....BP5 plug will not withstand the high revs of a race engine, high compression motor, turbo or rotory very long at all ( the electrode will overheat -- see manufacturers symptoms of over heated plug ie; melted or burnt) a ....BP8, 9 or even 10 will however, but its effective heat range will tend to cause inefficient combustion in lower rpms where mixtures may be richer (on a race engine). Now whether the heat range reffers to the materials used in the electrode or the nature of the spark produced, it is none the less a usefull tuning guide, one which if you get it wrong will cause no-end of stuffing around even if it doesn't damage the engine (you are right, it would a missfire more than ping).

My peltier effect cooler works even on boost. When not on I can't touch the ic after a blast, when on its only mildly warm. Check the 'free horsepower' thread on SDU forum - performance section. Its got some people saying why it shouldn't work as well, oh well maybe they can work out why it works now.

Weird, The NA heads I would imagine do not have the strength(springs etc) or valve size/combustion camber of the turbo head. The VCT is not realy a pain if you get the right grind of cam and an aftermarket ecu.

Good work dude! When it comes to engine builds give all your traditional high performance jap tuning places a big miss, they don't build half as many engines as these guys. Sure they do V8s alot but don't think for a second that a V8 requires less precision work than our RB's. They do engine machining in their sleep! Make sure you get some quotes on the head work too. Have fun spending:D

From what I hear the RB25 bottom end is very strong. I would also 'ring around' to get a good price on the machine work (i'm sure you are doing that just remember that V8 performance shops are equally good at doing this and as far as price goes you should start shopping there first). Chris Mills , Geoff kendrick etc. just give them a list of what sort of machining you want with the rebuild and sound like you know it all, you are less likely to pay through the nose. It is also important to 'clearance' the bearings for the additional horspower and revs. Factory clearances could mean an nice bottom end lets go when you start reving beyond factory redlines. If they aren't advising you on this along with camfering etc. then really whats the point? Also balancing the crankshaft assembly is a must do on such an engine. As I mentioned on SDU, the heads are also worth a hard look to see if enlarging valves, beefing up springs/retainers etc will be worth while.

e-manage has been used on some big Horsepower cars in japan. $415 from nengun's site, will give basic S-AFC features in this form. The optional software increases it to tune fuel and ignition maps and other things.

stock looking... even down to the factory rims and 205 tyres. Goes ok I guess, still pretty stock. Mods; stainless dump pipe & FGK zorst K&N panel. DEI thermo tape on dump pipe up to cat. 10psi $2 mod. Stock ic that grows ice on it. I wonder how that happens?

They will just 'face' your flywheel, normally they don't take much off. Let them you know you don't wan't it lightened (as in take off kilo's). Don't worry this is not the same as lightening it.

Stock or modified its a good idea, doesn't matter how much/little power you have. The $$$$ vs go go is very good indeed.

Hands up who knew I'd post about this one. Light flywheel is a good thing for an engine like the skyline's. The revs build faster, boost comes on faster Hello! are we all not driving turbo cars here? Driving around the street, RB engines have plenty of spare torque unlike the 4 pot WRX, WRX's have rather short ratio rear ends to make matters worse. There is often no loss of torque with well made light flywheels, JUN/HKS and Ogura are all very good at keeping the torque. What you will notice is the excellent engine braking effect (revs drop quicker off throttle) and reduced strain on gear box. If you like 400m or track the light flywheel is great and WILL drop the times. Go lighter for 400m and super light for track work. I've been around quite a number of cars with light flywheels and they are a real "sleeper" mod. You won't be dissapointed. :mrgreen: