rev210

my old R32 gtst rb20 with stock turbo ran 13.2 / 13.3's for refference.

The core is the -9's . The part number is Identical. I checked it when I had a set of GT-SS turbos.

www.realultimatepower.net This thread is there now

May try and get the bunky gtr out tonight for a run. Double demerits should see the cruise focus on the social and enthusiast side of things, good choice of dates really.

'Is faster' and 'feels faster' are very often two different things when it comes to street car owners who have just spent money on something.

No wonder you had issues dude. On top of those 12 inch fans being crap and they flow less than lots of even smaller fan options. And no shroud throws it all away. The single 16 inch davies craig outflows that combo and will fit inside the factory shroud with minimal cutting. You can get much better and slimmer fans than either of these though. so I would leave that brand alone now.

the interesting thins is that over 10psi is fine. I've actually tested the pressure drop myself back in the day at 1bar. So the over 10psi thing is an old wives tale with no factual basis. People reccomend things often because someone else did, they don't know why. You can get a high 12 second pass out of the poxy r33 sidemount on the stock turbo running sensible boost. The FMIC won't get you any better times and hence doesn't help in this environment. If you did some sort of circuit racing then the larger surface area of the FMIC will help with sustained boost loads, however doing this with a stock turbo is going to indicate you aren't serious enough to be serious. SMIC and stock turbo ,the down side is the bling.

Don't worry about the times , just go to have fun. You will get better with practice like anything but, so much fun. It's great to really drive your car to it's full accelleration potential legally and against your mates too. I might get down just to shake off some cobwebs in the bunky GTR sometime soon myself.

Spam ?

nice. time to take her to the drags and see how she goes

putting one on a stock turbo = waste of money + more police attention As for the China intercoolers being as good as other brands; They don't outflow them and one size fits all is not a good tuning philosophy. They also make them in a big hurry so alignment of internal cores is luck of the draw and the end tanks were have no association with the concept of design they are just made to look like they were. I will take the pepsi challenge to show you how much faster and more responsive a car is with a correctly sized intercooler. It's not an insignificant thing. I am also happy to tell you how to get the stock unit to work better for you. You can also look at the R34 SMIC which is good for upto 230rwkw or so with excellent efficiency. However, plenty of people do it , it's cheap , better than stock if you put a big ass turbo on and like most you probably don't care that much about how fast your car 'actually is' as long as it goes ok. If that's you then join the herd hope that info helps

the combustion characteristics of the race fuels are obviously quite different ( in a good way) and therefore not only does this effect everything in a tune , from cam timing to AFR but, also if you intend running a car on race gas then you can do allot to the way the engine is built for optimisation or the reverse if you are running on a fuel the build was not intended for. Hence the comments along the line of 'how long is a peice of string'. If you wanted a guide there really is only one for motors of the same type , spec and build assuming the same tune. Sounds pretty useless doesn't it. However, as a rule 'race fuel' will always offer some benificial gains over BP regular etc. Some street based cars use it due to it's nicer burn characteristics and soley run it to protect the motor in races or the occasional motorsport event. It is not uncommon for there to be little or no power gain chased by these situations. The fuel is consistantly good unlike pump fuel experiences and offers the margin of safety for extreeme events. My mates and I used to fuel up with Av-gas for a trip to the drags (prior to my skyline days). We found it better for the day at the drags for things like vapour lock on a hot day and also to help things like when jetting for temp changes during the meet it was easier to get it right. Although the gear we play with is high tech the race fuels offer a more forgiving margin. Hope that helps.

std ecu is limiting things most likely. And you are lucky it is.

A 'good' thermofan setup is better than the clutch fan. The intercooler and radiator have efficiency improvements if you take the time to shroud them. This = more power and easier cooling. You can buy the radiator guides for GTR's from a bunch of places but, if you really want to do it right pop the front bar off and create a guide around both the radiator edges and intercooler edges to ensure the air is draw/ guided through the cores more efficiently. You can fabricate pretty looking ones from metal or even just using slightly ridgid foam on the cheap and backyard side. ALWAYS use or make a fan shroud and where possible use the moulded factory style one. The shouding rule applies to oil and trans coolers as well. Twin davies craig 12 inch fans are lower cfm rated than the big 16 inch one, if you had to use that brand twin 12's is a bad move. Davies craig fans are pretty crap compared to the factory units availible. The twin thermos from later model cars are better again than the AU falcon unit.

Someone hasn't posted a picture of someone doing a moon yet with the actuator pipe circled?

filthy ricer magazine now has a filthy 'cheating' ricer editor! All I can say is this move better make you go faster or your reputation may actually improve

From stock power levels. It's that crap.

Toluene is your friend. DIY race fuel. You ideally need to retune for it. If you want to have a little try then you can get 4L toluene from some hardware stores, else you can get it from the likes of BP in 20 , 40 and 200L quantities. You are buying it as a 'cleaning' solvent for specialised engine parts NOT as a fuel. You can't say the word 'fuel' at any time. Read this; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ya...+fuel+back+yard

What boost were you running?

Don't approach the tuner. He was wrong about the 13 psi on a stock turbo (given that the bleeder will spike like a bastard now and then). Don't do it as you would be joining a list of dorks who buy a performance car, drive them the way with some decent abuse (which is fun of course) and then need someone to blame for the cars wear and tear. More heat , rpm , boost and aggressive driving loads all = really fast wear and tear. These people need to keep a mirror handy so they can blame the right person for their woes. Instead, be a thoughtfull car addict and manage your illness. These things just cost money. Also, you can now help out to warn people that they should stick to 10psi on a stock turbo if they want it to last. Suggestions; * get another stock turbo. They are cheap and stick it on 10psi. $400 for the turbo and have a go yourself fitting it with new gaskets should be no more than $150 with some oil and water. * get a highflow GCG etc.. This will cost you LOTS. You will need plenty of the supporting mods that you don't have right now. You 'can' buy one and run at very low boost, however you really need to ensure the 'tune' on the ecu is within safe limits. Do not go down this path without budgeting for an ecu upgrade or at least checking the tune. * Don't bother with a cheap E-bay turbo / KKR etc.. they are laggy for the power they make and you will need the supporting mods again. hope that helps

It's about 6% as suggested, which means you should do it and it's worthwhile. You just need to make a rule to yourself to only have less than 6 beers when handling them in case you damage the wire somehow.

It happens and it's very common. The compressors are often very much perfect looking afterwards too. My old GTR sadly had this happen and shagged the rear pots compression. Compressor side looked brand new. If you think about it, it does make sense if you take into account the velocity and force of the wheel exploding projectiles only have to go against the exhaust pressure. Hope that helps

Your measurements are abnormally low. This could be due to a variety of factors including the conditions on the dyno on the day. Did you remap the ecu? Do you have a high flow CAT? If you examine the gas path in the factory cast unit you will see the restriction it is. You may also notice the over cast alignment of the flange if you compare it to the back of the turbo or sometimes even an old gasket. They are really crap. I may have a few lying around I can take some pics of to reassure you that the Tomei pipe you got is infact a great upgrade. As for splitfires and a FMIC on a stock turbo I would regard these as much worse value for money given the stock coils in good nik are as good as you get and for most people the factory SMIC will not be a significant restriction on a stock turbo. As for the China pipes (JJR etc); * be very very certain that all the flanges are alligned and that the welds inside do not protrude into the gas path. If you just bolt it up without checking you will most likely gain anything or even go backwards in power and response and you may encounter boost issues. * Of the 4 JJR pipes I have helped fit (one I bought myself but, never again), every one of them were poorly alligned and protuded into the gas path from the back of the turbo and required die grinding. 3 of them bolted straight on (the trap for the non vigilant) of which 1 required material to be taken out of the weld to allow a nut to fit onto the stud thread, the other pipe required cutting and rewelding in addition to the die grinding. Hope that helps

Ahh.. it would be the $30 conversion then ! Ripper ! One carton later and it's all in. Mint!

I only spent $30k to get the JZ in there... now I can save $15 on a gasket which is so great I can tell you!