rev210

beer baron, do the trust airfilters have bellmouths on the inside at all like the HKS poison mushrooms?

make sure your O2 sensor isn't shagged if you are using closed loop, it helps.

I'll be there with my fully sick camry wit da GTR badge, neons and giant drift wing. Looking forward to lots of big skids and stereo cranking at all the meet points .....actually I can't make it but, hope everyone has a good time

Cam gears are a good idea. If your tuner reccomends stock cams then stick to those. I'm not of that school but, I'm also not your tuner You will have a weapon with this setup like the bloke who started this thread. -5's are a top turbo for ultimate street power

Ah yes Beer Baron. You have seen the true origin of performane parts just like eastern martial arts is China. Actually that photo of the flange is of the 'least' warped one Your faith isn't misplaced at all. Flanges are really easy to get flat from the cast. Hell I reckon some of the lead sinkers I've made put this casting process to shame. The best way to modify this kit is with a furnace, donate the alloy blob to the alluminium can guys and then buy one of the trust bolt on kits. The AFM necks to the air filters look way too short as well (they have warped flanges too). This would probably cause some signal issues for the AFM's. Then again with those filters on thats going to be the least of your problems. To those who have bolted the supplied filters on my big tip is don't take them off immediately because you will miss out on the super plastic octane booster. Let us know if you lose a turbo or two in the future if you decide to keep them on though, or if you have had a failure since putting them on. It will only be due to the turbos not being qualtiy chinese of course but, it will bo good to keep score.

The potential of the turbo's themselves isn't what I was alluding to. These are only the cumulative results people have independent of location and tuner as averages. Just as an observation it appears universally easier to extract good power from the GT-SS in the sub 350rwkw range. This is easily predicted by the compressor map as another person noted. They have the best of the -7 and -5's rolled into one. From the compressor map they will spool as quick as a -7 but, require as low pressure to flow 30 as the -5's meaning less generated heat for power 250rwkw or more. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the -5's they are fantastic turbos and those tuners who have thier heads around them can get as much power and response as one could every want on a road car. Sure the -9's/ GT-SS are something special but, they don't have the legs of the -5's. All you have to do is make sure you start building a spare motor and buy a spare gearbox if you decide to wring the max out of the -5's

I don't have a real GTR it's a lego one.

From memory the cover has a gaskety thing too, to prevent excess dust and moisture getting in.

Poor bloke just wanted the supporting mods.. As others have contributed. 700cc injectors , 044 fuel pump or drop in jap, ecu upgrade , clutch , requisite exhaust from turbo back (dumps / front pipe), 1 bar adjustable actuators. Some adjustable cam gears at the very least , my prefference is for cams but, being able to tune them well costs and not alot of tuners seem to know their way around with them. On the turbo side here is some GTR data taking from the forum GTR owners, of which there are now a number running different turbos. the GT-SS (-9's) are unbeatable under 350rwkw & 2530's / -5's over. The data taken from the RB26 dyno results sticky for various turbos. Peak power: The average for the 2530's is; 388rwkw The average for the GT-SS is; 335.4 rwkw The average power made by the -5's is; 313rwkw Of the same data the best power of the -5's was 388rwkw Best of the 2530's was ; 451rwkw. Best of the GT-SS was 364rwkw Now if we are going purely of budget un-opened/ non-built motors maybe with just some drop in cams it looks like this; -5's average ; 298rwkw 2530's average ; 358rwkw GT-SS average ; 332rwkw Taking cars that make more than 400rwhp, std stroke, bp98. average power over; 110kmh 130kmh 150kmh 180kmh GT-SS = 265rwkw 2530s = 284rwkw -5's = 242rwkw taking just 110kmh & 130kmh to indicate the 'reponse' and mid range GT-SS = 218rwkw 2530s = 196rwkw -5's = 174rwkw

there is no noise.

Autobarn888 . Eight Hundred and eighty eight faults at manufacture guarenteed What do you reckon guys ? Group buys anyone ?

I've got the intake stuff off at the moment to get at some other things. So I might demonstrate the issue the pipes I have seem to have with the flange angle. The angle of the flanges ensure a perfect non-fit. I can see how these ones were cast badly on the flange sides . It's possible to get them to fit if you cut them and reweld the flanges back on at the correct angle. They are only slightly off but, enough to ensure they will never fit. Then again do people have enough info now, to know why they should go out and buy 4 sets right away ...... to save me the touble ?

double post oops

Did someone say " Hey How about some totally sick chrome painted plastic air filters! " ? No? Check out these "metal look" "Trust - style" airfilters. Yes the nut on the top comes with a light protective 'rust coloured' coating from the factory. No need to wait! Those little bumpy bits are chunks of plastic from the moulding process. They are super high octane and ready to go into the motor at times of high boost for extra performance. They rub off easily along with the chrome paint with just your fingers. Cool stuff !

Couple of pics of the super power iron fist casting technique and the superb finish it results in. High flow bumps and casting imperfections err I mean improvements I knew the lead sinkers I make in the back shed were too smooth to work well after seeing this. You need special chinese hose clamps to hold onto these sort of oval-ish shaped cast nipples.

The Y Pipe and general construction is next. The Y pipe looks like it would seal ok. This side looks ok... BUT .... this side has special overlap that to the untrained eye looks like a jagged peice of "couldn't be stuffed" restiction action. However it was designed in a wind tunnel by the chinese space program. Having a look from the big end makes it even worse or better....if you are enjoying the chinese fabrication show so far. I have to take another pic of that, post later.

Good point Beer Baron. I've been known to dodge things together in my time but, this kit and the rest of the china bits coming out are beyond a joke. Someones not going to be laughing when eventually a motor or two is killed. I got the kit back and was sent the new additional parts for the R32 kit , namely two bits of metal for relocating the alternator (so as not to foul the front intake pipe). The odds are really good with the obvious lack of care in other machining that the bolt holes don't line up and although I'm not going to test it I would suspect that you will need a new belt also.You some hose for the length required for relocation of the power steering pump and some clamps. I've not been given a refund as I attempted to install the kit and I scratched and dirtied the parts piping in the process and did not have the complete packaging (plastic wrapping etc). It wasn't a great deal of money so rather than pick on Paul at Performane-wise over a $30 profit margin, instead I thought I would catalogue the kit's shortfalls and why even if it did fit, I wouldn't go installing it. I highly doubt anyone would go power positive with this kit and if you use the supplied airfilters you could enjoy having the turbos and engine ingest molten bits of plastic air filter. Pics time. First up every single one of the bolt up flanges are warped. quite nicely. How warped are they? I got my feeler gauges out to see. The best was a small 0.9mm..... In the middle The worst 2.3mm on both sides but, offset. I initially dummied these up with goo on, assuming a flat surface. These things are cast and not really cleaned up except for being polished. Bottom line: * Leaks on everyone of them (someone else found this). Go super power leaking technique !!!

China crap is poorly welded, flanges often overlap causing restriction and due to taking little time to check angles on the welds means you may find that bolts or studs will not be able to be fully done up without machining off over weld. JJR and I dare say Autobarn888, the later I would run a mile from in a big hurry. I've seen 6 too many of these dumps and had to mahine everyone of them, a couple bolted up but, the overlap on flanges and weld protusions meant that if you did just bolt them up they would more restrictive than stock. Get something custom made or buy something decent. getting the SOB's on and off isn't worth the small saving for buying a peie of crap. The stock units can be used but, they are very poor flowing compared to an good set of aftermarket units. The stock ones are often poorly cast matched and the only set I ever retained I spent time with a die grinder on. Without a doubt some Tomei's would easily outflow them.

-9's are GT-SS equiv. Not the -7.

You can still get the older 4 and 2 door 'pacer' style shells pretty cheap. The chargers are now a bit on the pricey side. Got to love the steering box chasis rust too on the chargers, one of my first cars VK with a 360cui

If things go the wrong way on this I will post a step by step with pics and a full list of the faults with measurements and dimensions on all parts so that no one is under the false impression that this kit will work without serious modifications to it.

update. It appears that now Performance-wise website has these no longer listed for R32. They do however list them as 'Bolt on' for R33 and R34. Which I am sure they will be changing soon, given from above reports they actually aren't. I am now just waiting for the refund to come through to close the chapter.

Nothing wrong with replacing the stocker with one of these. But, it's a cheap turbo and goes like one.

-9's are GT-SS equiv not -7's

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