rev210

Yep that might be fun. Wanting one of those modified cars is all good. What you don't necessarily want is the money and effort to get them there If you are thinking 400rwkw as mentioned you might like to investigate the other factors around that power. My suggestion is think about what is in your head thats saying 400rwkw. What do you see yourself doing with that power? Is it what you 'need' to have in a competitive circuit car? Or is it a starting point for a drag car? If you are thinking of living with a car that has a motor capable of breaking anything and everything in the drivetrain you need to consider 'how' you can live with it or even if you want to. Such high power levels when used will cost you alot of money regardless. Check out the budget people ,who have similar use to what you are thinking, have for keeping one of these sort of beasts in good nik . All those things you want to do with the car = compromises. Powerfull cars are attracted to track crash barriers and drivetrain carnage more than lower powered cars. If you aren't going to and from on a trailer bear that in mind. A competitive car on the track is less about 400rwkw and more about everything else including your seat time on the track. Seat time on the track and some good lessons are to be budgeted for so you get good value from the car. You can have a very nice weekend track car setup in the guise of an R32 gtst with fairly low power, say 250rwkw. Roy on the fourms offers a pretty good example of budget racing and road use. Enough power to get you into trouble but, you aren't setting main straight terminal speed records and then risking not being able to haul things up in time.

Here's some practical advice for you: * Forget your idea and buy someone elses turbo registered car if you think this will be a daily driver. 'Learning' for you will actually be learning about how long a project car stays off the road even with the best intentions and money. I can assure you a year or even many years is what happens to alot of people who have actual experience and money. Two things you don't have so expect 10 times the pain. I am telling you this from experience. But, if you are happy with not driving the car for a year or two you get to the next point. * Forget the idea of learning 'engine conversion mechanics' with a bolt in motor. You aren't going to aquire much skill with this project if you are looking for a challenge to learn a great deal. Instead my suggestion is to find something like an old and fairly cheap car that you can drop an RB motor into. This means the car is a 'project' and can be done at your own pace and you will pick up basic fabrication through to compliance with registration laws. The car may well fit within a tight budget and it can be a very interesting ride at the end depending on what you go with. * Also, bear in mind you are actually starting with a 'dud' car relatively speaking. This means you are giving yourself a big time and finance handicap for no 'good' reason as explained above. Perhaps that you might have an emotional attachment to the car or really want a turbo powered line so bad you are looking for a way to make that happen as quick as possible. If you really desire a turbo skyline then start a war fund to easily cover the difference in selling yours and getting the right starting car, is my best tip. Once you step into turbo land with the desire to modify, you are going to be broke 24/7 which is I must say a very cool thing. But, lets not see you broke before you even get to the turbo stage.

Yep. It's done well though because 120,000kms is excellent for a standard clutch to last . Plus no doubt a few kms have been with higher power levels too. Drive like nanna. Save for new clutch. Easy.

Nothing to worry about unless you have an old stock clutch in there. If so, then take it as an early warning sign and drive like nanna.

See what you are saying but, in reality it's not a problem. The fan/s quickly get the temp down and cut out fast once the car starts moving even at a fairly low speed. It's a little better than the clutch fan in cutting the load at the right time, not really much to compare though as a benifit. A badly setup fan usually stays on all the time due to the temperature activated switch being crappy/cheap/wrong setting. This is the same for the clutch fan where it may stay on all the time or worse stop spinning when broken. Lots of aftermarket ecus offer thermo fan control now too that is more advanced than the old skool days davies craig units and the dodgy resistor and sensor.

He could also be an alien, you never know.... Never is a long time. The 'age' of a person is worth noting, along with thier background. With a general line of questioning you can get a feel for people being false to you and also understand what sort of attitude they may have to the treatment of the car. It is the same as looking at the people who service the car. I usually invite the owner to take me for a drive and I don't say anything but, just observe the driving behaviour. In many cases the younger blokes try to impress you with both thier driving skill and how fast the car can go. A good way to determine if the car is getting it's neck wrung. Thorough testing of the mechanicals is a must for the purchase of an older GTR. In terms of wanting a quicker sale for your GTR I would actually suggest having your dad sell it. People sadly do judge you by your age alone because of the other young people that aren't like you. An older seller will attract more inquiry.

This is an easy one! Remeber you have a 'Factory' ECU; * This means you MUST set the fuel pressure and flow to factory levels in order to get the benifits of the factory mixtures for cruise and idle. Any varience will see corrosponding pain it's that simple. The is no rocket science or mystery involved in the problem. Couple of ideas based around being budget minded; * You have picked up a 'cheap' Sard regulator; --- Is it the right model? It should be rising rate and of the correct ratio (they make a few types) If it is the worng type you will have issues. * You could go a simple S-AFC at this level. --- There is no room in the stock turbo for huge power anyway and you can sell it for close to what you paid once you are ready to go up. * The Power FC is a people say a simple plug in. * Wiring is NOT the problem. Save your dollars mate. * The richness at idle and cruise ,if as bad as the tuner says, will see your car belching out black smoke as you idle and drive along. If it doesn't do this you have no worries about 'glazed bores'. If true it indicates a serious issue with the fuel pressure and I would naturally assume the fuel pump and or FPR are the culprits and the first areas to investigate. Another indication of the 'over rich' glased bore idea will be that the car will need a new set of plugs real soon. My tip here is don't waste money on irridiums/platinum plugs and stick to copper NGK's. The Microtech isn't as good as a PowerFC. It's because the PowerFC has a completely factory approach to running all the electronic systems in the car and on the motor. It's so easy compared to a cut and custom job. It's also cheaper and there are no benifits to the extra time, hassle and money spent. Thats the summary for you and chosing it would mean you have found a new and compelling reason. Hope that helps

Track day answer is pretty simple as at speed the fan is not required, it is only there for low speed and stand still. But, you reduce load on the water pump and belts by getting rid of it and the reduction in weight (2kgs) acheives some additional gains in inertia reduction. The fan itself can aslo generate harmonics that can be transmitted through the water pump and add to cavitation issues at sustained high rpm also (not a problem on a road car and also it may not be a significant issue with some cars). Race cars usually don't run them for this reliabillity and gain. You can appraoch these issues from a different angle to retain the clutch fan by adding an underdriven pulley and ensuring the fan is in excellent working order. The problem is that clutch fans have a limited life span and people don't think to replace them because they are unaware of how to simply test them. Thermo fans are every bit as reliable as a clutch fan and in fact a twin setup offers some redundancy in the case of single fan failure. A thermo fan setup on my old GTR was superior to the good order clutch fan in terms of cooling capacity from a hot days traffic point of view by a few degrees water temp consistantly.

I have used castrol 10/60 for a long time with no issue with a variety of engines. For something thats going to get it's neck wringed the oil stands up to it very well.

Don't listen to him he is a dirty cheating ricer! I'd like to see some bigger nitrous kits on RB's myself. I am helping a mate out with nitrous setup at the moment on his LS2 powered torrana hatch and we have a nice little 350 shot sorted out for it. Might get some action for the bunky GTR happening later as between a few mates there are a few kit bits lying around I could have a go at frankenstiening something from.

Well setup thermo fans are very very good. For hassle free use the clutch fans work well but, if you are willing to do the work and ensure that fan shrouding is retained then electric fans can work as good or better than a clutch style. The Volvo fans are better again than the EL falcon ones.

Sell the car. Cheaper. Easier. Better.

11's on stock sized turbos isn't hard. If you only want to 'dip' into 11's then sticking with something of similar size but, steel wheeled would work fine for some frequent use. Get some 10sec action by bolting a nitrous kit on to the stock turbos if you like. go a 150 to 200hp shot in a single fogger. If you decide to go NOS brand go buy some of the bigger solenoids to replace the dinky ones they supply in the cheaper kits. Saves you mucking around with rebuild kits later if you use it a fair bit.

Slower.

Bolloks.

that show is crap. I treid my best to sit through a whole episode. The presenters are flat and uninteresting, the charm and wit of a box of crushed snails.

The Mines GTR is a road going car with road rubber. It's going to get smashed by the current spec race trim V8 supercars in a race on any circuit you like.

No but, I had a couple of beers before putting this thread up. R DIRTY 3, Thanks for the input mate.

Not really any help I'm afraid given there isn't any CV specific experience quoted on the thread. Looking for a CV repair/labour specifically. Allens CV's does them but, I'm looking for good options for who is going to do the actual fitting the right way and are good value. Like I said I would normally do it myself but, I'm not in the mood for the mucking around. Since I normally do these things myself (with the trusty GTR manual in tow) I expect a decent standard of work.

Just wondering if people have some experience with a good workshop to get front CV's done on a GTR. The drivers side one I suspect is foobar and I'm way too busy to spend the time blood sweat and tears I normally would on DIY so I'll pay for it to get done this time. Just want a reccomendation on a place that is good value.

What are neons about really? Perhaps it's about the 'look at me' aspect of your car. Because the same application of neon was in the use of neon signs to attact customer attention at night time. I don't think anyone on either side of the fence is going to deny that neons are for attracting the attention of others as at least one of the major benifits. Otherwise people would only have them on for personal viewing? So are there any other substancial reasons? I'm not sure there are (not that it's a bad thing). Practically, they aren't the best lighting solution for being able to see what you are doing. And people don't install them in a way that would indicate this. They also aren't the best lighting choice for seeing the detail in someones workmanship under the bonnet or inside the car. In fact they are a source of light that 'hides' detail and workmanship. So I'd say the only enhancement benifit is to hide looks that aren't as flash as they could be. So perhaps this is a valid use for them if you are on a budget? They might be a 'mood lighting' for someone but, I find the GTR does enough mood alteration for me not to need any more. People driving Hyundai Excel's on the other hand no doubt need something to distract them, so the odd wing / Stereo playing the right sort of music and obvoiusly neons fitted probably doesn't go astray. My last thought is that there may be a percentage of people wanting to put neons on because they get the 'startrek vibe' from it. The sense that they are able to imagine that they are flying along in a space ship? Whatever peoples reasons for neons and coloured leds , I tihnk we can leave the argument about personal taste on the shelf. People can and do make decisions about what they like all the time so you certainly can do what you want. However, peoples personal taste also expresses itself in the way we react to seeing things like neons. So whilst a tiny percentage of people are able to make a decision to don the neon, we can all make our own choices as to what we may or may not yell out at them or type at them on the forum also. If your outcome is to attract attention of people, you must then understand that this will be including the majority who at this time in out history think neons are ugly, ricey and stupid. You must therefore pay the community toll for the rice. Shows like FnF will no doubt continue to help with the image but, in the mean time people who choose not to put neons on thier cars won't be getting any flak for not having any and people who do, will. On topic; I think purple can help create the 'pimp' vibe mainly because it is associated with dimly neon lit back alleys from movies.You just need a white fur coat, white hat with feather, gold chains, gold walking stick and to sell the skyline and buy a lowered yank convertible of some kind. And probably go an actual neon sign that says 'PIMP'

no it won't actually

gearbox oil needs changing just like engine oil (it does last longer). Why the hell do people wait till the syncro's a badly worn to change it?

Use castrol syntrans fully synthetic gear oil and the fully synthetic LSD oil. Not the cheapo VMX80.

welcome to the forum Here are some non-gtr flavours; R32/33/34 GTS - non-turbo R34 GTT - turbo RB25neo (has solid lifter head) R33 GTST - turbo RB25 R32 GTST - turbo Rb20