rev210

there are so many threads.... search

Some of the things you have said here indicate that this thread is another waste of space on the forums. The fact that the forum has a sticky section (forced induction guide) covering the fundamentals of basic and cheap upgrades that are 'proven' means threads like these distract the noobs into debating the reinvention of the wheel so to speak. We have plenty of areas to read that give the same answers to the same old questions and without the agro. Use the search button. Mods, I think we have had eleventy billion threads like this. Can we do the same to these as we have to the 'what time will my car run?....' style threads and rename them with something and lock them? Sorry mate but, this thread is not informative nor is it contributing anything other than wasteland style bitching. Think up another topic not already covered and start again As it was once said long ago; In before the lock

What you have to understand is that people on this forum are for the most part concerned to help other enthusiasts. Being discouraging about a potential engine destroying turbo is hard not to do when you give a damn about fellow skyline owners. There have been a few posts so far from very experienced owner/tuners and not keyboard warriors. I'm now going to add my 2c too. I had experience with cheap turbos in the past and they ARE S^%T. Why? Because they certainly aren't balanced or built well (they can't afford to for $150) and when a turbo lets go you have the potential of damaging the motor. Now onto a budget turbo comparison; $150 ebay turbo + $300 dump pipe. Vs second hand VG30 bolt on Vs $400 modified Stock turbo The $300 second hand VG30 turbo is better because; * It costs $100 less. * It bolts straight on with no modifications * It's water cooled * It's factory balanced * It makes the same sort of power * It has less lag * Comes in ball bearing * Has a steel exhaust wheel * Is going to last alot longer The $400 v-trim stock turbo modification is better because; * It bolts on, no mods * you have ballbearing setup * balanced * water cooled * Makes more power, 250rwkw at fairly low boost * Has less lag * Is going to last alot longer If you do your research on this forum or ask nicely of the experienced forum members you will find these options have been around a very very long time and are the best budget options given the E-bay units cost just as much if not more to setup and don't even remotely perform as well. Hope that adds something to the discussion

Much of a muchness. If you have a tuner in mind then go with what they are comfortable/familiar with. It saves money on the tune hours. I think the majority of people run PowerFC's as there a number of tuners who know them well enough to get a decent tune out of more so than the nistune. Price wise I got my last second hand power FC for $800.

modification wise the Power FC is a good unit. Injectors are something you size based on requirement. If you are needing to up them due to future turbo upgrades then you also need to grab a bigger fuel pump.

normal

Perhaps you aren't making 550rwkw at the track. Basically that that setup isn't going to have 737 rwhp worth of fuel support. Others may like to comment but, a single in-tank drop in Sard fuel pump and 800cc injectors won't really support 550rwkw. For peice of mind you would really want a more hardcore fuel delivery setup especially if you want to give it some race time. It would be nice to run a fuel delivery capable of 1000hp worth of fuel ideally at those power levels for peice of mind, allows some headroom for partial injector blockages over time etc... You are looking at a bling mini oil refinery in your boot

is this what you mean? Standard stroke only comparison, includes budget and built motors on 98'; The average for the 2530's is; 388rwkw The average for the GT-SS is; 335.4 rwkw The average power made by the -5's is; 313rwkw Of the same data the best power of the -5's was 388rwkw Best of the 2530's was ; 451rwkw. Best of the GT-SS was 364rwkw budget un-opened/ non-built motors maybe with just some drop in cams it looks like this; -5's average ; 298rwkw 2530's average ; 358rwkw GT-SS average ; 332rwkw

The factory side facing plenum is actually reasonable from a flow perspective. If you are looking at the cheap stuff my assumption is that you are on a budget. If this is the case give the whole forward facing plenum a complete miss as the return on the investment power wise is far better in plenty of other areas. Better questiion to ask is what sort of equipement to go buy to achieve 'x' goal/s. Think about what you like about the car now and also what you want to improve. Ultimately what you want to do with the car. There is huge amounts of experience on how to get a variety of setups right once you get this info sorted. Hope that helps

The key factor is what the tuner reccomends and can do with the cams. Stock cams aren't bad at all in fact they are very good. To get the most from aftermarket cams it takes lots of mucking around on a mild setup. However I still personally believe that the Tomei 260 units are superior all round for performance. I have used the Tomei cams on a stock turbo'd motor and I was able to tune more power into it down low than you will see from any of the stock cam / turbo motors in the Rb26 sticky for that matter it would rival most small turbo RB30 hybrids. It made the power with less timing & boost.It was a great setup but, admittedly took lots of time buggerising around with the tune and that costs punters money.

You have some areas yet to cover like suspension/brakes/tyres etc to make full use of the power too.

I think with all the dollars being thrown about on the setup a fresh/mild rebuilder engine just sitting in an engine stand even if being slowly built up is a good first move. Have the peice of mind that will see you really tearing up the track without any fear of every strange noise. Thats money spent on feeling good. Oil control as pointed out lots of times can be a problem depending on how the car is setup and driven. GT-SS will give better results than a bigger turbo for a 300rwkw setup. They can be squeezed to 340rwkw or so when well setup and begin the power climb earlier in the rev range respectively to the 2530's. The garret -7's are smaller again than HKS GT-SS and may get a few extra rpm on them and still get you to 300rwkw. Cam gears at least are a 'must have' - so cheap for some excellent gains. As people know I am a fan of Cams on mild motors like this. Some extra lift helps get the power in early, dialled in and tuned around the boost curve. If you aren't too confident in terms of setup I will concede that sticking to factory ones with cam gears will do pretty darn well you will be stoked with them. At least till I go buy another GTR and actually remember to record my tune settings for the Tomei cams for people to try out. Being all talk I will guarentee I will smash stock cams tuned by the gods for bottom end and midrange power (you might be waiting a few years at this stage) I think this sort of power goal is great for a street driven GTR and keeps within some of the factory limits like drivetrain and cooling. You will need a better clutch by the way at that power level for sure Good little thread for discussion.

What I'm hearing you say is that there is some sort of 'bargain' mentality that should be used when going for a sub ten 1/4 mile car? I'm not sure if you are taking this line in general or just bashing Rob. There is a difference between a GTR that does a 9 once on a motor and one that will do it consistanly for a season or two. You get to claim engine building reputation on aspects like the latter. Rob's prices are very tame actually for the kind of power they are capable of if you think about the race motor industry as a whole not just the guys doing the 'import motor' part. I know someone who ran a 10 on a very old stock Rb26 powered GTR with bolt ons and for interest had a mate that whacked a bunch of nitrous into a stock bottom end 460 cube motor to run a 9. They both did it once only and I wouldn't call the motors a keeper. It might be possible to 'not build' a 1200hp second hand Rb26 for a one run wonder and that would prove nothing. There is something to be said for people who don't want to trust internet motor build DIY's and instead invest some substansial money in someones know how. The race season will determine the 'rip off'. Just my 2c

GTR's can be great daily drivers, I've used a few for a work vehicle that clocked up more km's per yr than most on here would ever do. The secret is in keeping the power down to something reasonable and doing modifications around the purpose of 'daily driving' not pretending you are going to the track every second day. Remember the factory GTR is a fast car out of the box. For example on a daily these items are a little off the mark and degrade the 'daily driver' experience to a greater or lesser extent ; * Most Coil over suspension if not all * Lowering the car too much * Loud and boomy exhausts * Turbo upgrades that get you well over 300rwkw * solid 3 puck clutches * Unshielded pod filters * 1.5 & 2 way LSD's * Aftermarket Rims (usually cheap ones) that weigh more than factory * Super low profile tyres Not suprisingly without falling foul of the above items you can build a car that will rattle of low 11 second quarter miles and be fun at the odd track day with another list of modifications and still drive really nicely.

If brian crower does a kit that would be interesting.

opinion = www.realultimatepower.net

If you had a good look at it you would notice the overlap of the flange (read restrictions). They bolt up with varied levels of difficulty due to the poor manufacture (some easy some less so) but, hey what do you expect for $250? HKS make split dump pipes and yes they 'can' work. Importantly they need to be well made to start with.

Don't buy the cheaper split pipe systems the flanges are poorly aligned Bell mount dump on the standard turbo works very well if you go the cheap way.

If you are thinking about buying someones old GTR top mount unit then assume that it's not going to fit. You can buy Rb25 ones for that application.

shannons kick ass!

14.0 @98mph is too fast. Make it 15.1

Yep they will do that. So let them race themselves on the street and save your fun for the race track where it belongs. That boost controller has nothing special about it at all.

[Car] ping ping ping ping.... [tuner] why can't we put more boost into this engine? [Car] ping ping. [tuner] you're right car! Looks like you are meant to be an NA afterall. Lets get that turbo off you right away. [Car] .....idiot.

I've had the R33 and R32 varients of the gtst and I think there's very little in it appart from taste in car looks. Both of my cars could run low 13's with the stock turbo.

R32 GTR mate. Have a look at my old one that is being sold at the moment. Drive that and see what a stock setup with a good tune can do. You have a low 12 second car with lovely road manners even in the rainy months of the year, unlike the gtst. All for less than $20k drive away.