rev210

Sounds like the timing is completely out of whack. How does the CAS drive look?

I think there is also 1 last thing that I should have clarified. A stronger spark from a boosted up CDI or in the old school NA V8s an MSD setup/magneto allows for a larger plug gap relative to a weaker coil system or on the skyline where the factory coils are on the way out. You still need to gap down as charge pressure increases regardless, although your starting point may begin higher. 7 is my lucky number.

I don't use stop gaps either. I think you may not understand plug gapping in terms of how it fits in with a tune. To clarify, I had suggested that 0.8mm is better suited to higher power/boost/rpm than 1.1mm on the same heat range of plug. I haven't suggested that you gap down to 0.8mm for the sake of it. Nor have I said 0.8mm is the only gap I run. I have tried to give some insight into plug gapping by indicating when we go closing the gap a bit and why(not very well explained so far I guess) When you decide to slap another 100hp into your motor you can re-test your 1.1mm theory 'if thats your lucky number' (our 'in joke'). You will find that due to the much higher charge density that equals the extra 100hp you will have a missfire that is simply fixed by re-gapping, or in the case of exceeding the heat range of the plug going to a colder plug. So you aren't mislead; Gapping down is 'not' done to adjust for the standard tune on 98ron. It is only required when people up the boost/power (charge density). As a side note the irridium and platinum varieties of plugs with thier smaller electrode allow for a 'longer' spark shape and tollerate a slightly wider gap. Makes sense as some of the Autolite plugs I used to use in my V8 days had smaller electrodes and seemed to go the same way. Hope that explains a little better the plug gap rationale. Actually maybe someone can look up the theory of spark plugs and post it up. Proving me wrong is always good fun and I get to learn something new too

I'm sorry but, 'feeling the difference' in top end? Unless the tune was rooted before I can assure you that not only is there no power difference but, also this 'feeling' is peculiar only to cars that started out with a spark issue or were seriously 'under-gapped' for the density of the air/fuel mixture. Smashing more power/rpm/boost into a motor and gapping down on the exsisting heat range is tuning 101( for all cars). If you get no joy in the top end after gapping down on the exsisting heat range you go to a colder plug etc. For example, for most of the NA V8's I've tuned you can just about go off a rule of thumb that is gap down 4 thou for every 50hp added. I've been doing this to alot of different cars over the years so 'luck' has nothing to do with it. There are some serious horsepower GTST's & GTR's running around with factory coils as well. Splitfires do one thing well and thats make a cheap replacement for the expensive factory coils when they are shagged.

Depends on a variety of things but, in this case the 0.8mm gap is going to be better at high rpm/boost and power levels in terms of reliable spark. 1.1mm is a nice gap for a cleaner burn at lower rpm, hence it's factory. The factory coils are just as good as splitfires by the way. Splitfires are just cheaper to buy new.

yes thats right! For shame Brockaz! Because of you this guy and all his mates now can't go to the illegal drags because everyone knows where they are. Go stand in the corner.

You need to go to the classifieds section "wanted to buy" threads.

what I said then

Coat the old coils in silastic and you can keep them going for a very long time. looks ugly but, no one looks at them anyway. Sounds like one of the hoses was not on right.

It looks very FGy Maybe paint it FGy pink colour too. Donut King? Actually that name has just got a whole lot of wrongness.

that car rocks!

I have seen an R32 GTR retrim with these seat covers in black with red stitching and it looks very good.

rain is natures way of telling you to hibernate and save money. So that when spring comes you have extra cash to pay for the next seasons drag racing damage and wear to your car.

2 deg advanced on the intake and about 4 to 6 retarded exhaust works ok usually on the stock rb26 cams. You ideally need to retune the motor at the time as well.

have a good read of the sticky thread forced induction guide and the sticky dyno threads

boost and rpm play a part in whether it can handle things also what sort of condition they were in before you popped the cams in.

Do the easy things first like check the plugs for mixture issues on one pot. Hopefully it's not a valvetrain issue or somthing worse.

You should get some cam gears. Asuming this 'drop in' cam mentality isn't smart. Why did you think you could drop them in? I am pretty confident the cam gears will help a fair bit. Also, did you just whack the boost to 20-21 psi or did you start at the old 17psi? With the bigger cams you ought to start with less everything and work up. Start the tune at 14psi and work up. With larger cams you will make more power with less boost and rpm than before. Left of field is the potential of having a blocked injector, going lean on one pot. Have a look at the plugs.

Been on this forum since 2002 and seen this argument for as long as the forum has been around. I think most of us would love to be able to say with confidence " bump it up to 14psi mate, it rocks! ". However, over time it's just very apparent that such a reccomendation is contrary to seeing the results of members having a go at the idea. In time, the 14psi get to see a dead turbo sooner, alot sooner than people who stick to the 10-12psi rule of thumb. I would also say exhaust gas temp has something to do with the increased chance of failure in addition to shaft speed as well. If you do go the 14psi road then a good electronic boost controller is a smart idea to ensure you don't spike beyond. So whilst it's actually true that you might be able to run about with 14psi and not see the down side for a while (and people have done), you can be sure that the life span is very significantly shortened. If you have a turbo with a few kms on it you might be best to stick to a more reasonable limit of 10-12psi and get some extra power elsewhere till you have the coin for a new turbo.

F&F kills itself. It's anoying only when it comes to 'talking' about it amongst F&F fans. The good news is those people never go buy it because they are afraid it will blow the floor pan off thier hyundai excel. The other anoying thing is you have people who have never set a system up telling you how it all works and that it isn't good value. To date I haven't spoken to anyone yet who has had a well setup system who thought money was better spent elsewhere.

The SAFC should be tuned with a wideband and or dyno. can't just copy someone elses settings. the Dec air isn't needed unless you run an atmo BOV. 2.1 60ft is ok. The Pod is unshielded? if so that doesn't help.

the 13.8 was at 101mph, 2.1 60ft. 98mph = lower power than my old R33 gtst at 101mph terminal. gear selection and shift point can kill off some time if you get it right.

I've actually heard of generic solenoids being used with a pulse box but, the consensus is that you need to rebuild the solenoid pretty often to make sure you avoid a locked one. Solenoids last for a certain number of 'switches' before wearing out. Pulsing them rapidly means they won't last long at all. I would never consider the entry level solenoids for doing something like this but, thankfully the bigger kits usually supply better solenoids. On the cheap side I've heard of pusled 'air' solenoids being used as well, modified for the nitrous and fuel. They work but have a limit of 120-140hp in terms of fluid flow. The direct port versions of these require a pair for every cylinder. Being air pulsed solenoids they are designed to the high duty cycle and if fitted with nitrous / fuel tollerant seals I can't see a problem with them. But, being pulsed I would still treat them as a consumable for more frequent replacement. Actually nitrous solenoids always should be treated this way if you plan racing a car.

to quote robocop " I'd buy that for a dollar! "

Don't become a dirty cheater ! I want to see someone smash in a 400hp shot on a skyline.