rev210

Roy, If you have any fabrication places around, they can machine alloy pulleys up for you to suit. Before I got into GTR's I used to this for other cars. Give them your old ones and ask for the diameter changes you want. Only reason I got a Greddy kit last time was because it was mega cheap 2nd hand.

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It may depend on a few factors. On a factory turbo engine +2 and upto -6 are often found to work well. On a higher boost and airflow -5 setup you could expect some differences on the inlet cam timing. This is how figure it out; The basics I use to try and work it out (my reasons for things may be wrong but, seemed to work for me at the time) * Advancing the intake cam moves the valve closer to the piston (be careful- not too far) and as a result you get increased cranking compression. You end up with better bottom end power. The peak magnitude of power changes is centred around really the peak of the hill (one spot) but, kind of moves the whole hill under it. You advance and generally the power peak moves down the rpm range, to a point. I think you find due to the relation to cranking compression , things like turbos airflow/boost characteristics make it slightly more tricky and effect which way you go from 0 -or+ and how far. * Retarding the exhaust cam moves the valve closer to the piston (be careful not too far) it tends to effect power more generally over the entire curve. But to less magnitude than the intake changes do. The exhaust cam setting is more of a mystery sometimes advanced sometimes retard. * Tune at an initial boost a little lower than you want to end up at. Tune for increased boost later. * Dial in and advance/ retard intake cam first , then the exhaust cam.

Put a 26 on an engine stand and build it up at in your own time. No stress. I've got a good one for sale

Mines/ Nismo and trust like 1 peice carbon tailshafts not 2 peice stock ones.

they have pros and cons of design. The two bit ones sap power at the bearing, are heavy and the centrebearings are a source of failure under . They are smooth though. A single chromemolly is lighter and better for performance but, would transfer more vibrations. A single carbon fibre shaft is lighter again and transfers less vibration than all the above. It is superior in every regard except cost. Cheap/reliable/fast : pick two applies.

You have certainly improved over the stock cams everywhere on an apples for apples comparison. I seem to recall I began with more radical timing combos and worked back. With the stock turbos I had some info on where to start with the timing. Sometimes a tuner will assume you want a glorious top end and if at any point they adjust the cam and top end disapears they adjust the cam back, naturally. This isn't right. I do seem to remember you do that to chase earlier spool then on the other gear you change the adjustments and you find the power again. The basics I use to try and work it out (my reasons for things may be wrong but, seemed to work for me at the time) * Advancing the intake cam moves the valve closer to the piston (be careful- not too far) and as a result you get increased cranking compression. You end up with better bottom end power. The peak magnitude of power changes is centred around really the peak of the hill (one spot) but, kind of moves the whole hill under it. You advance and generally the power peak moves down the rpm range, to a point. I think you find due to the relation to cranking compression , things like turbos airflow/boost characteristics make it slightly more tricky and effect which way you go from 0 -or+ and how far. * Retarding the exhaust cam moves the valve closer to the piston (be careful not too far) it tends to effect power more generally over the entire curve. But to less magnitude than the intake changes do. The exhaust cam setting is more of a mystery sometimes advanced sometimes retard. * Tune at an initial boost a little lower than you want to end up at. Tune for increased boost later. * Dial in and advance/ retard intake cam first , then the exhaust cam. * I think the idea with the bigger tomei cams , is 'not' to assume they need more overlap like the stockers 2+adv and -4/-6 exh, they have bigger overlap out of the box anyway. Thats why I think the stock cams need help and they are too small. being designed with some sort of emissions in mind compromises them in this way. graph wise; You have less bottom end on the graph because I think he ran those graphs as power runs and probably loaded the motor up a little later in the rpm range. 0 is a little strange for the intake cam timing but, perhaps there was a desire to leave the peak power bump in the same spot as the original.

Hi TommO, what are the mods you have to the car? Pretty great improvement over the stock cams I'd say. You have picked up an earlier spool and 14-20rwkw and then a big fat load more power in the top end. The low rpm tuning isn't really shown on that graph ,looks like a top end focused power run/tune that dyno readout. I'm interested in what cam timing settings you tried and where you ended up?

*Extreeme 9 puck ceramic clutch plate , sprung centre. KNI24001 r32 gtr/gtst and R33 gts/gtst *Matching upgraded pressure plate off 1990 R32 GTR * standard GTR flywheel to suit. Done less than 10,000kms heaps of meat on it. Great clutch setup. $400ono

the compressors aren't ceramic mate, even on the stockers. They are made of alloy so no magnet sticks to them. What you are looking for is ceramic exhaust turbines. Obviously on the exhaust side not the compressor side. be carefull before going off about it.

Carbonfibre tailshaft single piece is $2k to your door from the guys who make the mines ones. Or a chrome molly one (stong) from UAS is less than $600. Both save alot of weight over stock. And eliminate the centre bearing.

If you abuse the gearbox enough the standard power output will kill be enough to help you mangle it.

actual pic of the stuff out of the car.

best to build around a power level that will not only hang to gether but, be utilised in the overall performance of the car. That means some money set aside for things like drivetrain/brakes and suspension. Not point having eleventybillion horsepower if you can't get any of it down. I don't think you can go past an Rb26 for an out of the box great street motor. The stock setup sized turbos are good for a substancial power level, upto 260rwkw is not unusual. And with a set of cams in you can have really good power in by 3,000 rpm.The twin turbo setup is best for response/street power levels. My old (very very old) RB26 motor with just a set of cams/ std turbos ( only 10psi) made 160rwhp by 3,000rpm. Thats better power at that rpm than you see from many peoples RB30DET hybrids and single small turbos. The individual throttle bodies also make for better throttle response.

suits rb20/25/26.

price drop

Excellent show last night. Here are some pics.

No I will be there also. being a snob.

Rb20 & 26 are the same by the looks.

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Are you going then, you elite bastard?

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re-location kit not a oil cooler. However you can easily add an oil cooler to it. A generic pic of the kit.

My dyno was also done 'bonnet down'. I really haven't seen any evidence provided that explains how relatively big 260's on a stock turbo do such a mint job on stock turbos and yet don't work for another 100rwkw and then suddenly they work well again once you hit 400rwkw. Although I completely dissagree with this idea in both theory and practice ,I genuinely am interested in knowing why people think this might be the case. The tune I had was a nanna one, so just like others with stock turbos you can push them up in power. The cams will see every bit of the curve 20rwkw or so better and depending on the flow of restricting items like exhaust etc. you ought to see more peak power than you will ever manage from stock cams and turbos. What's important about the install of the cams is that you do it spot on and spend some time with the adjustment of timing. I am kicking myself that I didn't write the cam timing down on a bit of paper I actually kept but, I have this feeling I tried 8 retard exhaust and 2 retard intake , 6 deg retard and 6 deg retard also rings a bell but, might have been for the group A's. Anyway you need to spend good time and money on that side of things and completely ignor the top end whether it's up or down in the initial stages of tuning, come back to it later.

Grex remote oil filter kit with Earls braided oil lines, suit RB 20/25/26 Off RB26/R32 GTR, hardly used. SOLD In perth.