rev210

You are loading up the trust bearings on the turbo plenty. If other things fail before the turbo does that doesn't mean you aren't wearing it out faster or that there isn't instances of catestrophic failures in short periods. Turbo's that cop the abuse are doing so because they make them pretty well these days, not because there's no harm. It's safe to assume turbo manufacturers know what they are talking about and we mere mortals don't. From a Turbo Manufacturer (Garrett) website, one of a few refferences made on that site about the strain not having one introduces; Blow-Off (Bypass) Valves The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it. Blow-Off valves use a combination of manifold pressure signal and spring force to detect when the throttle is closed. When the throttle is closed rapidly, the BOV vents boost in the intake tract to atmosphere to relieve the pressure; helping to eliminate the phenomenon of surge. Here's an interesting one about compressor surge in general; Surge is most commonly experienced when one of two situations exist. The first and most damaging is surge under load. It can be an indication that your compressor is too large. Surge is also commonly experienced when the throttle is quickly closed after boosting. This occurs because mass flow is drastically reduced as the throttle is closed, but the turbo is still spinning and generating boost. This immediately drives the operating point to the far left of the compressor map, right into surge. Surge will decay once the turbo speed finally slows enough to reduce the boost and move the operating point back into the stable region. This situation is commonly addressed by using a Blow-Off Valves (BOV) or bypass valve. A BOV functions to vent intake pressure to atmosphere so that the mass flow ramps down smoothly, keeping the compressor out of surge. In the case of a recirculating bypass valve, the airflow is recirculated back to the compressor inlet.

For your final power run/tune. pop the bonnet down.see what you get.

Nah If you are going to go big six it's got to be the Nissan TB48 with a stroker crank to 5.1L

I think you missed my humour.... 170rwkw stockish skyline is a pretty nerdy circuit racer anyway you look at it, it's like comparing samples of poo for excitement value (massive appologies for any offence taken by owners of such cars) * Question of Nitrous longevity; 100hp worth of gas in a 10lb bottle gives you about 100 seconds (50hp gives you around 200), it's not rocket science. In fact you can see this very question under FAQ I am sure for most manufacturers of nitrous kits, there are other questions you may find interesting answers to as well. Purging wastes a some gas of course but not a huge amount. I have had quite a few kits in my time and I am always suprised at how long a bottle lasts. * Questions of racing circuit or drag; As I mentioned the use of nitrous on tracks is not sanctioned (I didn't think people would take me seriously), as I mentioned its a moot point. However one can easily set up a kit to make it circuit friendly if it were allowed. Hidden 'Cheater' systems have been used controversially in circuit racing in the bad old days, particularly in the US. The massive torque nitrous provides means the motors spread of power gives you a large advantage.Again, I mentioned the circuit advantage only as tongue in cheek. As for the strip, welcome to having your ass handed to you if you have the same power as a turbo setup, average power is king. Have a good hard look at why nitrous is popular in drag racing and you will see my point. * Cost; $100-ish for a 10lb fill lasts 100 seconds @ 100hp shot, it's by far the cheapest way to enjoy occasional street/strip fun. The setup requires very little at all by comparison to a turbo upgrade in terms of cost and suffers from no day to day normal driving compromises. In short nitrous offers the best bang for buck street/strip upgrade, regadless of the consumable aspect. Cara has a different approach and has mentioned the strip and show as her chosen areas of recreation, she really can't go wrong Hope that adds to the discussion

You aren't making anywhere near 293rwhp at the track bt the looks. what was the terminal speed?

He's got a perfectly good turbo, not making the power it should. getting another one would be a waste of time till things are sorted.

Sam, have you got a heatsheild for the pod yet?

At least you had a good time, I think thats the important thing more than the times. @162km/h terminal I would say you were down on power for the night Vs your old 13.7 run in your signature. How did the car feel? Have you changed anything since last time?

We should make a new 'pizza cutter' racing category. A points based system where you need to do a 4 wheel burnout the entire length of the track. I've missed tonight due to my fridge blowing up on me this afternoon.

No worries Eug, There is far less to running an R33/34 sized car into 13's than people keep going on about, 170rwkw (genuine/Caras?) in the hands of a newbie will get mid 13's with a pretty crappy, wheel spinning 2.3 60ft . All it takes is a setup that hasn't departed in the wrong direction from what is basically stock suspension/tyres/weight. I think if Cara gets down the strip she can have a chat to people who have done it a few times and be running the times I suggested, ie hurting GTST owners feelings.

Hi, Adrian also ran 12's without gas, 12.7's from memory . He ran an initial 11.9 with a tuned 65hp shot back in 2004, from memory he ended up running mid 11's with the 75 shot pretty consistantly later on. Lets just say I know little tiny bit about his nitrous setup. You are correct about matching claimed times in terms of difficulty, although the perfect aspect of day and time etc is not always true, in fact mostly the conditions are far from ideal with the execption of a driver. Hence people getting better than factory claimed times is common for a variety of cars. You can predict the potential time in a car from the info on the time slips, regardless of driver. On the nights I have been down the drags I always say g'day to people and give a hand if I can. The cars I reffer to regardless of the driver/launch seem to have power issues that show up in the data. There is nothing wrong with the tuner on Miss34's tune, there would be a bit of timing absent to take care of the motor for nitrous use at the peak torque region (120-145 on the graph) . To help you understand nitrous effects on the power curve you must understand the power curve on a nitrous equiped motor is very cliff like as you are adding 50hp or whatever HP to every part of the curve once activated, there is no 'progression' as such. Hence the torque increase is massive also. This car will also maul your stock turbo gtst on a circuit. At a 50hp shot you have 200+ seconds of full throttle power in a single 10lb bottle, thats quite a number of laps around most tracks in Australia. For a fairly stock street car that is as much as anyone really gets in a public session. The motor has a massive torque advantage for the same power. But, it's a moot point if the regulations of the track prohibit nitrous use. Happy to clarify the info for you to help add to the discussion.

I have one complete with lines and turbo snout elbow, thing that make it lots easier to fit. $400. I think you should DIY as it's not hard at all with the basic tools. You need some oil and coolant and some gaskets for the turbo prefferably or some ultra copper exhaust gasket goo. Give yourself a day to do it and you will cruise it in.

Might take the bunky GTR down to benchmark it. It's running some nice little 205's so I should be a bitch to launch making it more fun. Nothing like a challenge as they say.

Nothing wrong with the 2540. As people have said it will net upto 350 or so and will run 18psi. What ecu are you running on the Rb25?

a nitrous based 170rwkw is an easy 12 second pass if you manage to hook up a 2.1-ish 60ft (not that hard really). A 170rwkw GTST R33, assuming it is bonnet down reading (closer to what you are actually making out on the road/track) is going to net a low 13 or high 12 with a similar launch. I ran 13.8's all day , 2.1 60ft's, with about 145rwkw (bonnet down dyno). A mid 13 is possible with a few tenths better 60ft. Most R33 Gtst's I see at the track with the usual bolt ons and standard turbo make the same or less power than a stock car due to bad setup. There is the false assumption that a dyno has confirmed power increases/magnitude of them with the bonnet high in the sky. Hence lot's of dissapointed young blokes at the track. It's not isolated to skylines or a new thing I've seen the same thing for many years with V8's you name it. People do mods and then wonder how they can't seem to match even the factory stock times or mph. Having said that,when on the gas, the intake temps aren't too badly effected by bonnet down or up power runs (although the tuning of the ecu should have a finish off with the bonnet down) It's always fricken cold going in the motor so nitrous doesn't suffer from hot days at the track either, in fact it helps bottle pressure too MissR34, You will be mauling the stock turbo gtst's at the track. NA and a girl adds extra value to the lads getting handed their ass

Get the R34 SMIC, it's best bang for buck for the stock turbo and when you are ready for the turbo upgrade it.It is easy to sell the R34 smic and basically get what you paid for it. There isn't any hassle fitting the R34 smic or removing it, not really 'saving' any addtional hassle when upgrading the turbo comes. hell you are going to be upgrading lots of things that will keep the car off the road so it won't be an issue. Most of all you may change your mind about what turbo you want or what you are doing with the car several times, meaning the best type of intercooler to suit may vary in that time. I'm of the opinion a $300 el'cheapo intercooler belongs on an el'cheapo bunky car. It's a directionless corner cutting move. There isn't any indication that the stock intercooler is a real impediment to the standard turbo in actual performance on the track, either drag or circuit (the ceramic turbine isn't sustained lap friendly anyway). based on the spectrum of times people do. You can see people run low 13's even 12's with either with the standard turbo for instance. so I think the smart way is to do both and enjoy the best possible results from each step, without any extra expense and verry little effort

Has the nitrous setup been tuned jet wise or did you just stick the packet matched 50hp sizes in? I'm not sure what the Zex kits are like but, I only ever use the listed jet matches as a starting point to test the fuel jet listed for correct flow. Typically you will find that the reccomended jets are a jet size or two out for optimum results, more so on larger shots. If the internals on the NA RB25 are as strong as the turbo's then you have the same power limits. Your car will be faster for the same peak power value, given you will have lots more torque and average power. Be good to see some turbo lines get blown away

Would fit with a little work, it's not massively taller or longer. I would love to find one but,don't see second hand ones around yet.

If you want a bigger 6 , then go nissan and fit a TB48 and slap a turbo on it. You can purchase off the shelf forged 5.1 L stroker kit for it as well. The motor looks just like an RB only a little bit bigger.

naaaawzz man! What a great movie! It's helped so many people; like Jim from Las Vegas " I used to have chronic constipation before the fast and the Furious series, now with just two minutes of viewing any episode I have the shits. It's as easy as that! " Or Brian from Boston " I've always struggled with understanding mechanical things, especially modified cars. My friends all thought I was stupid. After watching the Fast and the Furious series I really know alot more about performance cars and how to make them go faster. Like putting blue neons all over the car , you see it's just like them UFO's. They have blue neon lights and are really fast. I just added a 50 horsepower HKS sticker, next I'm getting a Vin Deisel sticker that will stop my floor pan falling off and give me an extra 6 gears on my 4 speed gear box. Wow thanks Fast and the Furious!" There should be a whole section in the forum for Fast and the Furious threads, NO WAIT a whole fourm. So people who post about it can live the dream.

A well made chrome molly flywheel at around 4.8kgs would be great to add, along with the 'sprung' 9 puck ceramic button style clutch and a standard-ish pressure pressure plate (people go overboard in this area). Chrome Molly has some advantages of strength over the stock one in addtion to proven rotational mass advantages. Should be just as nice as stock to drive and a good match to your nitrous intentions if you go to the strip. It will also hold onto a bigger shot of nitrous as you get interested in upping the dose. I would imagine a 200hp shot would not be out of the question if you were so inclined and make for low 12's.

Nah ferrari red, lowered, tinted windows. In it's early days it ran a built 308 with a T350 trans, shift kit and a dana 60 lsd diff. Ran 13.9 @ 101mph at the plex some years ago (with baby seats and a pram in the back). After getting sick of the fuel bills I de-cammed the motor and put it on LPG. It was cheap to run after that, although it lost a chunk of power. Once child number 4 arrived we sold it to buy something with 6 seats. There was a silver/blue volvo sedan running a worked 350 chev that ran low 12's on street tyres a few years back. I almost bought it when he had it for sale. How would you feel being beaten by that in your GTR?

A 70's Volvo station wagon? I still wish I had my 308 powered one, I liked driving it more than my GTR. You just couldn't stop laughing at people going what the! Going to get milk always took me 2 hours. Good brakes and diff on them standard. Not to mention the fear other motorists have of them, you get cut off alot less.

You did well to lop the half a second off after we had a chat, like I said the good news is the terminal mph you had was good for a 13. You put a shield around that pod you have and you will pick up some power as well. good excuse to go down next week and give it another shot.

good effort Sam, I think given you weren't able to let the tyres down a 2.1 60ft is great.