rev210

Moderators . We need them.

Easy 12's if you can get a little traction of the line. The 3.9 ratio is a good thing for that motor too.

It's been that way for a long time in terms of slow ET's with GTST's , it's just very basic setup issues made worse by people rushing out and buying the cheapest FMIC's and other crap without thought to getting the things they already have working well. I've breifly owned a R32 gtst that ran low 13's with the stock turbo (better tyres though), they aren't shabby, almost equal to the R33 in potential from a mild setup point of view.

I did consistant low 13's years ago with an R33 gtst, not very hard. You can get into 12's if you run decent tyres. That was with the stock turbo at 10psi / stock intercooler / stock ecu with a S-afc II /lightweight flywheel and turbo back exhaust. On tiny 205 stock sized tyres.

If the pod is unsheilded, it's probably part of the problem. reaction time doesn't effect your 1/4mile time by the way. Reaction time is the time it takes for you to break the beams after the green light. Once the beam is broken (ie: your car is moving forward) the time for you pass starts. Your 60ft time is a good indication of how well you are launching, a 2.1 sec or better time is what you want to try and get. Will try and say hello , what does your car look like?

T peices are the latest technology. As used by NASA even!

why? It's illegal. And to my mind having a bunch of plumbing including a pressurised fuel line and high amperage solenoids installed makes for a non-pass or at least a request for an engineers cert and corresponding permit. the burden of proof is with you to prove legal compliance at the end of the day. Bulldust has a low success rate at getting you out of crap when you are pulled over on this issue. My appologies for reffering to a yellow with zero time as a red, it's an old habit. I've had plenty of both of those in my time. I've tried to point out how easy it is to bolt in and out a basic single fogger so you don't get busted. Just trying to avoid issues for people and pass on my actual experience with nitrous.

my gtr runs a Tee'd off little peice of silicone hose with a utilux bullet head clamped inside with a hole in the end. 13 psi. Now thats a cheap ass controller!

That was a ritual for decades before the appartments were built. Scab's burnout night, every weekend. Features include: * police riot vans * A demonstration by the council sand dumping ute and it's dare devil team of on-call workers. * both red and yellow stickers * people showing their tits (including the rare female) * People running around a car park with car jack * slots of blown tyres that look like the ones you left at the tyre place the day before because they were bald. * cars driven by drivers without a licence doing a burnout * unlicenced cars doing a burnout with drivers who still have a licenece but, are about to lose it * unlicenced cars driven by unlicenced drivers doing burnouts * Unlicenced monkeys driving unlinced uni-cycles doing burnouts * people giving the signal and saying things like 'arc it up mate' And many more exciting events.

A good cat back gives a substancial gain in power, the factory mufflers are very restrictive. Turbo back exhaust is regardless still the ideal in any case.

I find that very hard to believe, I'd like to though. Corresponding permit for the kit? I doubt that and without one of those along with the engineers certificate you have an illegal car and one that the police won't be kind to. With the hoon laws these days I would be very worried. Even with a permit, if a cop wants to and believes the permit wasn't correctly issued then they can red sticker your car if he or she feels it represents a danger. Given the actual law, you will lose that one in court every time. Sadly WA and Qld have left the question of it being made legal up in the air, for a long time. Again, it's very straight forward to build a kit that is quick and easy to totally remove for street use and put on just as fast at the track. Really not a big hassle at all. You need a little extra flexible hose, some addtional fittings and little brass plugs. So the only reason I can think of really for wanting the kit in all the time is because you want 'fast and furious' street cred. It's got Naaawwwzzz penis extension.

To clarify: NO Nitrous kit installed, at all. Some people get around with a totally hidden kit, others remove the bottle and hide the solenoids. You do either of these things prepare yourself for a world of hurt if a cop sees any of it or you stack your car and the insurance Co finds out. Not to mention it's just not the safest stuff to go driving around the roads with. Law hasn't changed here in WA since I last checked it 15+ years ago. It's fiddly but you can make your kit pop in and out fairly quickly for a night at the drags. lunjiaow, 2rismo was easily into 11's the bottle quite consistantly too. You need a larger fuel pump to supply the total amount of fuel required for the total amount of power you end up makng. Other than that a colder set of plugs (just coppers will do) and a few degrees taken out timing wise etc.. If you are serious about it PM me , I'll try and point you in the right direction (provided you aren't intending to street the kit).

I have mucked about with nitrous systems for a few years with cars for drag racing. The issue in WA is that the nitrous kit is completely illegal. You can however rig one up that comes completely out in 20mins or less for a trip down the drags, with a small number of tools and a little bit of thread sealer. If you are thinking of running around on the road with a kit your insurance will be void, the cops will probably book you under hoon laws and you have failed the stupid test. the up side is for a drag racing experience on a budget nitrous is fantastic. I rigged up a kit on an old R33 gtst stocker with the intention of drag racing it, got it through the tune stage and then hit some kangeroos coming back from albany so I sold the kit to 2rismo on these forums. He fiddled some more with the setup for his car and ended up running 11's with the stock turbo on street tyres with it, I believe with a built motor you could easily run into 10's using the gas and nothing more than a stock sized turbo. You will never have the torque or power curve of nitrous with a turbo the sensation is really something else.

say "hi!" to going backwards in power. No cold air partition means you suck in some very hot air. Hotter air = lower power. take it back off and put the old airbox back on, till you get yourself a partition. Trust me your car will be faster that way. Unless it runs on Magic, then just like a good HKS sticker you will have another 100hp.

Without a doubt , the cams ought to get those turbo's on plenty earlier then they are at present (500-1000rpm) and also open the top end right up as I noticed it plateu's up top a fair bit. It's possible to fit the cams and valve train with the motor in, Sydneykid has stuck some advice about how/where to machine using a die grinder to get the clearence for the bigger lift cams. So if you wanted to you could bung them in before the engine build goes forward.

If you have some decent tyres (deflate the ones you have for better launch) then you should be into mid 12s pretty easy, I noticed you have the better part of 300rwhp.

Temp will drop down to mid/low 20's by the time you need it to. If you have traction issues then the lower power due to ambient temps being higher earlier in the night can help you get a handle on things before power jumps up later in the evening. As a result some of my better times over the years on crappy street tyred cars have been done when the mercury has been in the mid to high 30's.

probably mine then I live just down the road in girrawheen.

you didn't just say that......go stand in the corner for an hour and don't talk to anyone.

As mentioned some lift larger cams are a good idea. The additional lift requires bugger all machining, certainly less fiddly than the other machining that will be done to the head when it's off. If you can get some 260 deg with 10mm or so of lift that would be the go perhaps if keeping it under 8,000rpm is part of your idea. Bigger duration isn't really needed. You ought to run the ARP's with that sort of power level. You want a good set of studs holding the head on and the mains will want walk as power gets higher, you can do without any stretching with the stress they will be under. You could just bolt some bigger cams in (even the run of the mill 260/9.15mm jobs) and I am quite sure you will crack your desired power level, I would expect you should see 100rwhp-ish from that, just maybe not without you living in constant fear of something going on you.

Should be getting cooler as the evening sets in regardless, the forcast was for high 30's. Will say g'day sidewayssam if I see you, I will either be there with a mate of mine and his R33 (blue colour with a large wing) helping him with his first time at the drags or in my bunky R32 GTR. The GTR is midnight purple with tiny stock R32 gtst rims and no wing.

The turbos shaft speed increases with the increased boost and tubine backpressure (used to drive the turbine, instead of passing through the wastegate) leads to higher temps, given people are able to make often very similar power at 10psi as others do with 14psi it may also be that the turbo is outisde of it's efficiency range (don't know of any compressor maps for the stocker though) at 14psi meaning higher intake temps and possibly resulting in effects on tune giving a higher exhaust temp. Tune can also result in higher exhaust temps which would lower even further the boost threshold. Bottom line is there is has been a fairly long list of people over the years who pop the turbo at around 14psi-ish boost over the years, this is the most common link to turbo failure you will find.

Just wondering if we have any of the SAU guys heading down to the plex this Wed? I am heading down to help introduce a friend of the family to the right place to go racing either with his newly purchased R33 gtst or my bunky R32 GTR. Be good to say g'day to any of our fellow skyline crew.

The ceramic turbine wheel is the likely culprit, boost the motor to over 10psi and you increase the risk of kissing it good bye. The only other issue that may occur at the same time is getting a small amount f ceramic dust back into the motor, happens less on the Rb20/25's than the GTR's. Ok if it's screwed? Maybe, or you might find a rebuild not far away.

cam gears are a good little mod, and if ustilising a pretty standard stock setup turbo etc.. then 2 deg advanced intake and 4 to 6 retarded timing on exhaust has been fairly well established to save you some time on the dyno re-tune.