ylwgtr2

what i would do is paint strip them...spray them with some etch primer then paint them in 2pack enamel....you could do what i done with mine and thats paint strip them then get them polished then paint them in candy...it looks like anodizing

and if bullshit was music....you would own a brass band

as everyone else is...... at your expense.....does someone have an OWNED pic????

hahaha now this is getting to the one child says "your a poof" and the second child says"oh are you now"stage

As someone else said.....the bottom line is.....you get what you pay for Happy bargain hunting ....and dont use the pressure cleaner on your car......the paint might sheet off :DNow its past your bedtime......get in your spiderman jarmies and toodle off to nigh nighies

The thing i am observing is where you quote a complete strip and repaint for 2k.....the thing is theres guys that take pride and use good materials.....so i ran the figures you do the math....its not that hard......the problem is there to many "professionals" who give advice such as you have ......let me ask you something.....have you ever painted a car????

its an aftermarket version of vtec....

well if you would like to nit pick......if your painting a full body kit,and flow coating the car...you would most certainly use 4 litres of clear......any other questions??????

oh and i made my own controller up that you can adjust the degree you want it to come on and the hysteresis....but now vdo have these....but they may need to be modified to see the correct Ohmage from your sender as they dont seem to go down as far as the nissan sender does(it piggy backs off your temp sender)very easy to fit

thermo fans are by far a better way to go.....its just that 90% of the setups i have seen people seem to hook them up incorrectly (hotwiring them ect)generally they pull 10amps a peice and north south oem applications????at a split second thought ford falcons,commodores have had them for years.....if i had another 10 minutes think i could think of quite a few more id reckon

and just for the record.....i have actually painted my car.....3 times infact

hahahaha.......yeah i get ripped off all the time......lets do a quick break down for a good job using good materials...... 4 litres of PPG deltron base about $400 depending on the group of the colour,4 litres of clear PPG (ceramiclear)$600,reducer $120 give or take...theres $1220 before you have included other expenditures such as sand paper,tack rags,prep wash,primer(if repairs are needed) not to mention clips that break or missing when you pull a car completely apart,front rear genuine window seals,and wheres the labour and cost to run the oven?.....should i go on?????

bullshit....that is all

i got one....0417563600

its quite simple really....take out the one thats giving you the trouble....earth the spark plug out and crank the engine to see if it sparks......if it dont jam a screw driver in the end and place it about 5mm away from an earth and crank it....if there is no spark then change the coil with a known good one then test it again......if it still dont spark check the wiring if its all good then swap one of the pins from the ecu to the module(eg number 3...a known good signal) in to the no 6 one then check it....if no spark then the module has died.....if it does then your ecu is dead

wow...i would like to know where i could get the following parts for $400... timing belt,both tensioners,plugs,cam seals,crank seal,waterpump,thermostat,tesioner stud,fuel filter,oil filter,engine oil,coolant,gearbox oil,diff oil,3 drive belts and the o2 sensor....any heads up?

http://www.colorrite.com/index.php?osCsid=...37f59947ede5ea3

youve got rocks in your head if you dont do the idler bearings......infact if i had to sacrifice....id sacrifice the water pump for the idlers....if the idlers let go your head has to come off.........if the water pump fails you leak water and the gauge goes up and you stop driving.......but id be doing both

autoone in essendon/niddre in melbourne.....they post out https://rsp-secure.com/drive/

steve.....try checking the element.....its located right under the first part of the inlet manifold......its a real turd to get to...you can actually dismantle that unit aswell...this unit can be replaced with the RB30 unit.....just the plug is diffrent.....you file off the small tooth on the unit itself as its in the centre and not staggered like the GTR one.....they should be closed when cold.....if you hold it up in the light and you can see daylight through it then its shagged

there is two under there.....one of them is an heater element thats got something to do with the idle and the other one with the idle screw on it.....which one are you after steve?you can dissect the one with the airscrew by die grinding out the epoxy with a flat bottom die grinding bit and unscrew the idel tesioner pull out the spring and clean all the shite out.....the spring is usually under tensioned causing the infamous high idle...so doing this allows you to tension it up more....you can also throw 12v across the solenoid to make sure it works