could be anything.....your being a bit optimistic for an accurate response.... the guy that fitted the engine should be able to figure it out....there just an ordinary piston engine
do them in a two pack enamel....try someone like a holden dealer...you would need to paint strip them,etch prime them, then paint the colour(base coat)that you want then clear them....dont bother asking for a colour name tho...you will need a code
i noticed you said you own the GTR outright...you dont coz theres a little plate that says ECR34 on the firewall;)secondly....i have seen this car and looks to be a nice job(looking at it on the side of the road)And can i ask why you changed the rad support?I had a huge stack in mine and i put a 34 4 Door front on mine and all i had to change was the lower tie barand the chassis rails....and to those who said it cant become 4WD think again....change the floor pan and the chassis rails and its there...the front coil supports are the same......you have done a nice job and i see why your jumping on the defencive...however theres no need to be so cocky ie "questions that nissan cant even answer" there are alot of us that have studied our own car right down to the last nut bolt screw and wire.....
sorry been really busy these days....candy job huh?They are great fun to do .Most of the motorcycles that we repair are candy colours......Candy's are what you call a monumeric colour Most have a silver metallic ground coat underneath...although what i like to do is lay a ground coat metallic colour thats close to the colour that i am chasing....eg if i want a yellow candy i make a yellow metallic pearl colour thats almost the same as the original colour inside the shop(you can never get the effect that candy colours give by trying to cheat with pearls/metallics...what happens is you can make the colour to look right under fluro light but under sun light its complety wrong or vise verser)then i will spray it out on a test card and wave coat by coat of the correct candy thats been broken down with clear and thinners....after each coat i check to see if i can get the correct flip in colours....when i have got it right i note the amounts of candy that has been applied to the card and transfer it to the job at hand......its a very lengthy process and one spec of dust in a candy job spells dissaster....the dust breaks the surface tension and candy pools to the low spot leaving a dark ring in the job.....A candy job really sorts out the men from the boys.....
why are the "bits" not being mentioned????This is ofcourse relevent.....i mean seatbelts are a part of compliance and if the "bits"were to be seatbelts then i would say that is not the current owners fault...however child restraints are also part of the compliance and the owner could have removed them to make way for his rear speakers therfore its his fault....and why are we all saying "bits" in inverted commers?Bottom line is they cannot revoke plate as although the vehicles were issued there plates under low volume/sevs legally after they have been done they should be treated as any other full volume vehicle
using such large injectors(depending on your ecu)might be a bit of a felcher to tune....opening the injector one step might be too rich or going the other way too lean....consider running higher pressure with smaller injectors to over come this as you may find your mixtures to be a little messy at times
first thing make sure the cam timing is correct....then check to see what your true TDC is by fitting a positive stop in the spark plug hole and fit a degree wheel to the front of the balancer,then rotate the crank clockwise until the piston loads up on the stop and take a reading on the degree whel...then turn the crank the opposite way and take a reading again....then find the half way point between your two readings and thats you true TDC....stamp the balancer with a sharp chisel at the true TDC...i wouldnt be suprised to see it up to 5 degrees out...disconnect your aac/tps sensors then set it up
your talking about the wiring loom then.....a simple check with a volt meter for continuity will be enough to decide...if its a closed circuit from one end of the wire to the other then there is no need to replace it.....igniter modules are a week point on that model.....i would be sniffing around that