rofocale

Hi mate, what part number(s) are the turbos? Can you post a picture of the part number label(s) please?

Hi folks, This is on a 1995 R33 GTR V-spec with a stock FPR and injectors and 2 year old fuel filter. With an unknown fuel pump...initially... and the car is definitely running on the rich side with a powerfc using the base map and the idle routine is complete. It drives okay...but definitely rich (on mixture and pocket!) Some time ago I bought a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to plug into the fuel line just after the fuel filter before heading off to the fuel rail and injectors. I measured the pressure according to many articles I've read on this and other skyline forums and my results have been: at idle: ~43psi at idle with vacuum line to FPR disconnected: ~50psi These figures I believe are high for a gtr...i've seen posts which basically say it should be 2.5 bar(or 36psi) at idle and 3.0 bar(or 43 psi) with vacuum line disconnected. The R34 gtr service manual and R32 service manual also corroborates these figures(I haven't seen specific references in any Nissan documentation for the R33 GTR) Now my old fuel pump was never holding line pressure with the power switched off and it was very likely just the stock fuel pump which would make it pretty old so I recently had the opportunity to buy a Nismo GTR fuel pump and I have installed that and also replaced all the pressurized fuel lines(ie the ones from the fuel tank to the metal runners behind the right rear wheel and the ones in the engine bay) with some new high pressure fuel tubing and for good measure I also replaced the fuel filter. So after replacing all the stuff and measuring the fuel pressures I get exactly the same figures... My thoughts are: Is this fuel pressure within some level of tolerance and effectively normal? (I doubt this but it might be possible) Hence I need not go any further except get the car tuned. This fuel pressure is high and hence raising the amount of fuel going into the engine - more than what the powerfc thinks is going in. If this fuel pressure is too high and should be addressed, I suspect that the only piece left in the equation is the FPR which is just a stock item. By chance I happen to have a nismo adjustable FPR I got some time ago cheap and never had a need to use. Is it worth me changing over to the nismo FPR and setting the idle fuel pressure to 2.5 bar (or 43 psi)? Or would this potentially mask the real problem whatever it may be and not be a good idea (yet?). Are there any other possible causes for this high fuel pressure? (Other than the mechanical pressure gauge is reading incorrectly... I shall investigate this just in case...) Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I've recently installed some tomei cam gears. The timing belt should definitely not be sitting so far forward. I noticed at one stage that the spring on the tensioner can actually fall behind the tensioner pulley which then makes the tensioner pulley not sit square. This can then make the timing belt move forward. Maybe the spring on the tensioner is between the tensioner and block - try checking that maybe...If you just keep cranking it over manually, the belt should stay pretty well centered. Basically something is making the timing belt 'move' forward from its standard position. The question is what... Good luck. I would not conitnue until I had this resolved and fixed....

pics please...

Thanks to everybody for their advice - I really appreciate it. After hearing your responses, Dad and I took the front covers off again and went through the tensioning procedure again and gave the new tensioner and idler an inspection. Everything looked good. With it all in place I gave the crank several rotations, watching the timing belt for lateral travel or anything unusual. Everything looked good so we put it all back together and started the car up. This time the noise was much less. Again it seemed to 'start up' after a minute or two after starting the engine, but the noise was nothing like as loud - it was down to a similar volume as many other regular sounds in the engine area, if it a little less. So considering the advice and experiences of everybody we just kept it idling for a while and then decided to go for a drive as the noise sounded just so much less of problem than after our initial turn on. The volume of the noise when I started this post/topic was really much louder than anything else in the engine area and sounded as something was pretty wrong. Now you would almost just say, that the noise is just how the engine sounds. Thanks again

Hi Folks, Over the weekend, Dad and I did the 100K service on my R33 GTR. This entailed replacing the water pump (with a N1 pump), the seals on the cams, the idler and tensioner bearings and timing belt.(We didn't do the crank seal as I have an upgraded oil pump to put on before long.) The work went well, with much patience and the engine manual at hand. The car started up well and sounds just right...for about 2 minutes, then a what I can only describe as a whiring sound starts and continues. We have really only let the car idle until we are completely happy with all our work. Other than this sound, the car is running well. This behaviour is also repeatable. When we stop the car and restart it, it runs well for about another 2 minutes and then the whiring sound starts up again. We haven't taken the cam and timing belt covers off yet, which is our next step this coming weekend. We had a little peek in the top of the cam cover and at first glance the timing belt looks okay(just a that spot, we didn't spin it round). We used nissan OEM parts for the idler, tensioner, cam seals and water pump and the timing belt is a gates racing belt. What I'm wondering is if anyone can offer any advice as to what might be causing this. My personal ideas are either the tension on the timing belt is not right, or that either the tensioner or idler bearing is not good. Can anyone offer any advice as to what this might be, or alternatively what it is not? Thanks in advance, murray

"I see you have constructed a new socket wrench. Your skills are complete. Indeed you are powerful... "

Hi - what model is this for exactly?

yep, sure does and for all R33 models. I';ll pm you just to make sure you see this and send you some transfer details.

bump... both items still available... anyone interested....?

sold - all over red rover

sold pending payment

Hi Folks, I have a Blitz mechanical boost gauge that I've recently freed up from my car. Works well. $100 obo For those who may not know, a mechanical boost gauge takes a vacuum line from wherever you see fit to connect it to measure the boost. No vacuum tubing included - you can pick up vacuum tubing from Repco or similar places for just a couple of dollars per metre - its dirt cheap. I will also include a T-junction for the vacuum tubing to help with installing it. Good luck murray

Also interested in parts if it comes to that... so sad....

Hi Mate, Definitely interested... I'm in Melbourne. What would it cost to mail it? I'd love to take it off your hands.... :-) Thanks!

pics please?

sorry I didn't see your post.... Which item are you after (or both)?

PM'd

Hi Folks, I have a copy of the English version of the R33 Engine Service Manual which covers the RB20E, RB25DE, RB25DET & RB26DETT. It is one of the JPNZ prints. Photo of front cover attached. Almost 500 pages in size. $30 + postage I also have a Nissan genuine parts air filter. Bought it for my R33 GTR but not needed. Mint condition, not even removed from its plastic sealed bag. Part number 16546-V0100. This filter may well work on other nissan vehicles. I have attached a photo of the back of the pack which has some info on applications I believe but I am no expert as to what other models is may be appropriate for - no refund if it is not what you're after sorry. $25 + postage Hope these goods can be of some use to someone :-) murray