R31 drift pig

I would, if OZNATS and the skyline nationals weren't here in SA @ the end of october. Id love as much track time as possible, but I don't think i can afford and manage all three events in one month. If you do organise something, keep us in the loop, I may be able to sort something.

Would have gone 300 and probably quicker response with a decat and some more boost on 98. I'm never said it was laggy at all, more so that I wasnt sure if the extra 100kw would make it faster if it was another 2000-3000 rpm laggier. If that makes sense?

Ill take that ECV if you'll ship to South Australia?

Made 270 on 17 psi on 98, choked by a f**ked cat and stock cams, full boost around 3500 from memory now have added my cams/e85/haltech ps2000/straight pipes and a few other bits, was hopeful of 330-340 on 22-24 psi, boost on maybe 500 rpm earlier? I'd love another 100kw, but am worried all the extra lag will negate having more power. Still a hydro head so can only rev to 8000 or so, I also have a nitrous kit to go in, with the haltech controlling it, but I hadn't considered WMI. I'll be watching this with interest, I've trawled through the 25 dyno thread and it just hurt my brain in the end.

What sort of response would that have on a standard capacity 25 Trent? Im thinking about going bigger than my current GReddy TD06 SL2-20G 10cm, but unsure if I could stand too much more lag. I have almost an Identical engine setup to the OP, but on E85 and camtech 268/9mm cams To the OP, Are you using the haltech for nitrous and WMI control?

Circuit racing doesn't really excite me to be honest, although I haven't done a heap of door to door. I've done a few circuit days in the 33 when it was a streeter and it was fun, but not enough for me to solely concentrate on. I think I'm more inclined towards hillclimbs and maybe Tarmac rally or something. I may look into MOM though, might be something I might find interesting?

Im hoping the car will be quite capable at a few different things, although Im aware they are all very different disciplines requiring different setups. I was originally intending on hillclimbs, maybe a few circuit sprints (But they don't really interest me TBH) maybe some more drifting, but not really 100%. Just want to have a heap of fun I guess. I haven't done anything about the drop knuckles yet, I'll still do it, probably just at a later date. Im pretty keen just to drive a this point and make gradual changes on a setup I've had 2-3 years already driving, rather than change EVERYTHING at once and have a lot more difficulty trying to get everything right and chase my tail. All I've really done from it being my daily/streeter is strip the interior and add a cage/seat, change the wheel and tyre setup, add a set of front knuckles, and add about 50-60kw with cams/new ECU and E85. Thats about it really. (In reality i actually tore the car down to a bare shell and then put it all back together)

Definitely, Im just finishing off some stuff and making a few changes, Im intending on getting some street time in for a bit first, and should have it out @ the Skyline Nationals here in SA in october. If you see me or the car, come and say Hi!

Exhaust housing size is stamped on the inside of the exhaust housing where it bolts to the manifold. will be either 14, 17 or 24cm. That's the one I need to know. May also take the 044 if the turbo is the size I'm after.

what size exhaust housing on the T78? Ship to SA?

Selling some stuff off my 33 as Im upgrading. R33 M-Spec Aero, Front bar with indicators, Sideskirts and Rear pods, Painted in factory KH3 super black. Front bar is uncut, but vents have been shaved inside to fit intercooler. Also have factory mesh inserts for bar. - $500 ono Cusco Drag Links - Removing as I'm going to non-HICAS subframe so require toe rods. These will be a complete arm including rods ends. - $250 ono (Will take pic of actual rods when I jack the car up) JDI Front knuckles. Best in the business. Only Selling to use matching F+R knuckles. Knuckles also have 10mm longer Nismo Studs. Also comes with Ikeya Formula adjust tie rods, and KTS bump steer adjustable tie rod ends, to allow for greater movement and the extra length the knuckles require. Wont seperate this kit, all 3 parts are needed together. $500. Pro flow Polished billet fuel rail with injector adapters - Bought black fuel rail instead so not needed - $50 KTS Cradle Collars, Bought these, then bought 33, already had them. Been Sitting on shelf for years - $50 Parts located in modbury, SA. Im away for a week for work, so back next weekend, First come, First Served. Ben - 0419 809 007

Selling some stuff off my 33 as Im upgrading. R33 M-Spec Aero, Front bar with indicators, Sideskirts and Rear pods, Painted in factory KH3 super black. Front bar is uncut, but vents have been shaved inside to fit intercooler. Also have factory mesh inserts for bar. - $500 ono Cusco Drag Links - Removing as I'm going to non-HICAS subframe so require toe rods. These will be a complete arm including rods ends. - $250 ono (Will take pic of actual rods when I jack the car up) JDI Front knuckles. Best in the business. Only Selling to use matching F+R knuckles. Knuckles also have 10mm longer Nismo Studs. Also comes with IKeya FormulA adjust tie rod ends, and KTS bump steer adjustable tie rod ends, to allow for greater movement and extra length the knuckles require. Wont seperate this kit, all 3 parts are needed together. $500. Pro flow Polished billet fuel rail with injector adapters - Bought black fuel rail instead so not needed - $50 KTS Cradle Collars, Bought these, then bought 33, already had them. Been Sitting on shelf for years - $50 Parts located in modbury. Im away for a week for work, so back next weekend, First come, First Served. Ben - 0419 809 007

My Drag links replace the HICAS and allow toe adjustment, but the GKTech or Driftworks Rear knuckles require actual toe rods, so I may as well do it all in one hit. Trying to also retain as much grip as possible and increase roll centres a bit, while still being low. The Rear knuckles also have dual rear calliper setup, i may remove my drum handbrake and go to a hydro setup. I have a new set of cables and a new pair of Project Mu shoes to go in already though so undecided.

Thanks Jonas! My new job give me some more money to work on it, so ill be changing a few things I'm not happy with, like the fuel system in the boot, and my cooling setup (intercooler/power steering/oil cooler) Ill be changing them up a bit, also i have found a non HICAS subframe, so Ill probably put that in with some toe arms, and sell my drag links, and maybe run some new drop knuckles front and rear so i can put some more preload back into my coilovers. Ill sit down and have a good look when i get home.

yeah, I have a 2 litre one, all tube baffled etc inside, and after a full day at sandown, and a full day on the DECA skid pan, the can was bone dry. But i did the cam cover baffles anyways. Keep plugging away mate, getting some good results and ironing out the little details, looks like its pretty damn quick! I may hit up MR Sheetmetal for a set of door trims in the next few weeks. I don't have the tooling here to make a set as nice as yours.

Thanks Dale. Im pretty happy with the outcome. Im looking for a second pair of 18x9.5+39 3 piece wheels so i can make a second pair for the rear.

i used the same stuff Andy is talking about in my covers. Pretty much the same way Dale did his covers too. Dale, Do you think they showed any improvement? My motor breathes absolutely SFA; the catch can was bone dry before i did this, so Im not sure haha.

So after a stupid long wait, my wheels are here. I finished up everything i needed to do underneath the car, threw the wheels on, and washed 6 months of shit off it. Still looks like poop, but paint needs to be wet sanded and buffed, as its still straight off the gun, and then tidy up some bodywork and stuff. I need to adjust the coilovers and all the suspension arms etc, and Im able to pull all my rear camber out. And good front rubber means i can add a heap up front now. Still a minor couple of bits to do, and then it can go off to be wired and tuned. I fly to newcastle on monday for work so i won't get it done for a couple of weeks, but seeing it back on the deck makes me want to smash it out even more. Then comes the fun part... testing and driving!

And finally.... centres back from powder coating this morning. Finish assembly and all together monday arvo. Then just knock out the rest of the car!

And Location?

yep. Im hanging to see them all together.

I think Ive said this before, but I love seeing updates on this. Makes me want to go make my heap of crap better! Keep it up. Seat of the pants is usually right anyways.

I know its not much of an update, but things are still moving along slowly haha... Wheels should be completed in the next week or so, then I can get the car back on the deck, button up the last couple of bits, and then off to be wired and tuned. Obligatory burnout pics coming.

Workmanship and finish is awesome. Credit to all of you. Such a nice package. What do you expect it to run? Also, Who did the door trims?

Update: I still have no wheels. There's been some kind of hold up having the barrels done, hopefully be sorted this week so I can get them all reassembled. Final sizing ended up being 18x10+5 and 18x12 +7, with 7 inches of lip on the back Im told haha. SO as of now, the car is still perched on jack stands, with not really much else I can do to it. Ended up buying Federal 595-RSRR tyres. When they're $150 and $160 a tyre, I couldn't really say no. I still have a lot of setting up and street driving to do, would rather do that on $650 worth of tyres than $500 a corner. My tyre guy is getting some prices for some Advan A0-50r's, and Ill buy a set when Im ready to actually start competing. I may step up to like a 295 or something in the rear. As soon as my wheels are done, it goes off for wiring, tuning, and alignment. and then I get to drive it again after 2 years.