R31 drift pig

And as for other stuff needed, check all your other fluids (GBOX/diff/Power steering) a decent set of pads and fluid, I use Project Mu HC+ pads all round, RDA slotted/dimpled rotors, braided lines and Motul RBF600 fluid and I really like it. Check your tyres, may need a better set than what you have now. otherwise check pressures etc. Alignment - may need a more aggressive alignment. a basic set of tools - socket set/spanners/screwdrivers etc. Anything more severe than that usually means going home on a trailer. Maybe have a trailer organised to come get you if need be, or preferably take your car out on a trailer just incase the worst should happen. Remember to have fun - you won't go braking lap record on your first time out, so learn as much as you can, get to know other people out there, ask questions, but above all, have fun.

Cooling system in my 33 is as follows - ASI aluminium radiator (52mm I think, car isn't here so can't check), Nismo thermostat, GKTech fan with adapter, stock clutch hub and fan shroud, silicone hoses and nulon red coolant. I never see high temps on track, Simple but very effective. Trust oil cooler and relocation kit, stock rb25 heat exchanger removed and replaced with RB20 Filter mount. Oil temps come up and stay rock solid all day. Also adds probably a litre at least to the oil system, and i add a bit more. Now the engine is coming out, Ill probably add an enlarged gated sump as well. Oil temps are more critical than coolant temps IMO. 7 row power steering cooler with 6an lines. I boiled my power steering fluid previously, now no issues a all. Car gets hammered every time i drive it, and I don't worry about temps at all. Racepak has warning lights etc set, but I just drive as hard as i can. Just the concrete walls i need to watch out for.

Ive had nearly every fuel pump known to man hahaha, at least 10 different types i can think of, by far the quietest was the Denso 265l/ph intank i just took out of my 33, was silent. The 040 that was in there previously was a bit louder. Happily supported 270 kw. Have just gone to a pair of solid mounted 044's, fed by a pierburg in tank e85 specific lift pump for 350kw +. Could have done it with an in tank, but is now race car so not an issue. I also had an R34 GTR pump that was barely audible and supported a 250kw SR20. Had a Nismo in tank as well and although you could hear it, wasn't offensive in the slightest. I had a walbro 255 in my R31 and it was pretty noisy? For the money, denso is the go. Think i paid $150 for my denso new, probably less. Is also straight fit. For your power level i think the walbro 460 is a bit overkill. Side note: I have an A1000 in another car, and that vid does the noise no justice. It's seriously the loudest fuel pump I've ever heard!

What do racepace modify on their cusco arms? Every arm in my 33 is cusco and Ive never run out of any adjustment, running modded knuckles and relatively extreme alignments. Wondering if Ive missed something?

Front Nismo is 27mm, front whiteline is 24mm Rear Nismo is 23mm, Rear whiteline is 22 mm or 24mm in the motorsport version. Nismo sway bars are fixed, whiteline are adjustable. Both around the same $$$. And Nismo are lighter and djr81 said.

On my 33... Nismo GMAX twin plate clutch Nismo Clutch Slave Nismo Clutch Bracket Nismo GT Pro 2 way LSD Nismo Tower bar WITH brake stopper Nismo low temp thermostat Nismo front and rear lower arms Nismo indicators Nismo Brake lines Nismo Extended wheel studs Nismo FPR Going to purchase Nismo F+R Swaybars i think. Did also have Nismo speedo, Timing belt, Short shifter and knob, B-Pillar trims and 550cc injectors but have been removed for upgrades, Namely Racepak/Attain shifter/HKS Belt/1000cc injectors. Didn't actually realise I had so manny Nismo parts!

I know that... I pointed out that difference in the first sentence. Was simply trying to say what a few others have said that if you can afford it and are comfortable doing so, then go for it.

My wife and i did the same thing 12 months ago, although we've owned our current house for over 5 years. I was driving my 33 daily, and her 2000 model magna had over 250K km's on it and things were starting to break. Walked into a nissan dealer, bought her a new Dualis for $24990 on road, and I bought a Demo Navara with 500 Km's on it for $30K Dont Regret it for a single second. Great Daily, Tow's the 33 without flinching, Don't worry bout police etc. Anything goes wrong... it's all under warranty. And the wife works in the city, so the Dualis is great for her. Big but not too big etc. All that jazz. As long as you can afford it without making your life hard, and you feel comfortable spending that amount of money i say go for it. I won't ever buy a second hand car as a daily ever again. Depreciating asset yes, but Im comfortable with the money I've spend on it for the ease and peace of mind. JMHO.

Im going from memory, but Im 99.5% certain that model is a VT, but Ill check my 33 tomorrow arvo and double confirm the part number.

I use an optima redtop dry-cell starting battery, 720cca/900ca. Haven't had an issue for over 2 years. I use them in every car I own. I won't use lead cell batteries again. If you buy one meant for a VT commodore (model 35) it'll fit the factory R33 location and bracket.

Seems totally legit.

Seats, Nardi, PFC/Pump/etc, all sold. Floor mats and sub box still available.

Awesome. Exactly what I was after!

I've already done this. There's no wiring at all in the car, drag links are in. My question was pertaining to what happens to power assistance without any HICAS wiring/ECU/Anything, without making a new thread. Question seemed relevant given the topic title.

R33 HICAS is electric as well...

From what I gather, If I remove the HICAS ECU etc altogether...will I end up with single stage power steering and no speed assist? Or will I lose all power steering? I've tried searching but nothing really matched what I was after, and didn't want to start a new topic yet. Car has already had all wiring removed, auto sparky was at my workshop today to get moving on the new loom. Car is being fully rewired with basic loom and stand alone haltech, and have cusco drag rods in the back. This is in a R33 BTW.

VL LSD is still cone type, which, even when rebuilt, will wear out pretty quick, and you're back to square one. Been there done it. Not worth the trouble. My recommendation is still a spool, stock axles, and gear ratio to match.... KAAZ LSD/Harrop true-tracs's are at least $1200+, probably another $500 to fit... plus all the other consumables like bearings and seals, and a CW+P if you wish to change that too. You've got a $2500 diff by that point. Mini spool for $75, $100 on bearings and seals, leave current CW+P and have it all assemble and cleaned up and be under $1k I ran this exact setup in my R31 track car and it was faultless..... came out and was sold when I transferred my running gear to a HR31 coupe and is still running great. Up to you now where you want to spend the $$$ Unsure if pintaras were release in NZ, but you can buy the CW+P's cheap enough on ebay that even if you have to have them lapped and cleaned up, they're still worthwhile. Seen them for around $200 + post.

Just an FYI... OEM axles mean the stock ones. OEM = original equipment manufacturer. Your reply sounded like you thought it might have been a brand or type. If you're on you're third diff... maybe a set of moser axles would be the go for you. Get a 31 spline spool and matching set of mosers, with a 4.11 CW+P, would be pretty much unbreakable. And you'll be getting a tailshaft made for the 25 box, so may as well get a bulletproof shaft done as well.

Kaaz if you're prepared to invest $$$ in it, otherwise a spool. Mini or Full. The stock LSD Centre isn't much to write home about. You can have them rebuilt, but the cones wear pretty damn fast. Is it an auto or manual diff? If auto, it has the 3.9 CW+P, you can go to pintara 4.11 gears, if it's a manual, you can go to either R31 3.89, or piny 4.11. You have to have it all apart to do a centre, so may as well do it once. There's VL Turbos running 8's on slicks and 28 spline axles, so for a big power 30DET... personally i'd run a full spool and OEM axles (Moser billet axles aren't too expensive) and 4.11's depending on the gearbox. You're setup may like 3.89's. Just my opinion. Hope that helps.

Battery cut off. I reckon they'd be a blast.

Is said barn red? Seriously though, start from one end of the system and work through. Power to ecu, power to trigger wire, power to pump relays, which should be under the parcel shelf, next to the battery IIRC, power to tank lid connection etc. (I'm pretty certain i got that order right... been fighting the flu for the past 24 hours and the brain is a bit foggy) If all is dandy, pump itself may be rooted. Sitting in stale fuel for 3+ years will clog it up with varnish pretty fast. Did you clean the tank out or just drain it? Prick of a job to do in a 33 I thought My bosch 040 had died a while ago, and after replacing the pump, it actually turned out to be the pump trigger wire burnt out from another unrelated issue. As per Q2 and 3, you can do both, but both won't work if there's another wiring issue, or the pumps is rooted, unless you simply hardwire from the battery to the tank lid connection. Hope that helps you in any way.

Currently sold pending payment. Everything else still here. Will take offers on seats, currently taking up too much room.

selling a set of BNIB SFI 1000cc side feed injectors for R33. Fit factory rail, just require EV1 plugs wired in or EV1 to JECS Adapter plugs. Purchased for E85 setup 3 weeks ago, but now using low mount top feed rail and Bosch 1000cc's w/8an lines Come with all o-rings etc, this is an online image, will take a pic when Im next at the workshop. $350 firm, happy to post. Ben - PM or 0439 888 043

selling a set of Brand New SFI 1000cc side feed injectors for R33. Fit factory rail, just require EV1 plugs wired in or EV1 to JECS Adapter plugs. Purchased for E85 setup, but now using low mount top feed rail and Bosch 1000cc's Come with all o-rings etc, this is an online image, will take a pic when Im next at the workshop. $350 Firm. Ben - PM or 0439 888 043

End Discussion. Duncan is spot on.