Amec

most likely you have a boost/vacuum leak.

we sold a set of HSDs to a customer who dropped his lap time on the QR sprint circuit by nearly 2 seconds after getting them installed and enabling the car to be better corner balanced.

I'd be thinking you have a boost leak somewhere. best way to test is to remove the AFM and feed compressed air into the intake, but you need a special bung and tyre valve contraption to test it that way.

I can also vouch for Boxstop.

have you taken the standard boost solenoid completely out of the system? you need to do that.

the symptoms sound like a partially blocked radiator, which can be unblocked by a radiator specialist.

a bit of a nuisance, you can get a new barrel but it most likely wont match your existing key. you will probably have to get a barrel and key combination, you should be able to get 2nd hand from an import wrecker.

fuel pressure should be 38 psi at idle.

does the car heat up quickly or does it only get hot say after a decent run on the freeway? it its the latter then there could be a blockage in the radiator which can be fixed by a radiator specialist.

would help to know what has been tried to fix the problem so we can suggest possible solutions.

so has no 6 come back again or ???

no just looking for someone to lease out the back section of the workshop.

I just noticed "except CTS". I had a problem on an S13 that wouldnt run, replaced CTS and all fixed.

can you list EVERYTHING you have tried so far, so we are not suggesting something you have already tried? I know you have said you have replaced every sensor, but "every" doesnt always mean "every".

the road to Morgan Park: 1. Join the Z Car Club of Qld, contact me and I will put you on to Dave Robertson on how to do so. 2. He should be able to get you organised for entry in next year's series at MP.

AFM sounds like a high probability to me.

tried swapping in another idle control valve?

times? is it during the day or night?

AMEC chop: ok he's not quite going the right way

+1 for Cam's body works.

Sorry Peter (This is Beau on Peter's login)

this was a great event, next year I will plan to put on a sausage sizzle or something similar. was also good to be able to chat to some people I had never met and share race car motor building strategies.

wow Beau your car looks damn Superb!!! Cant wait to see you and the car in action tomorrow arvo!!

see if you can check the ECU error codes to test if it's still working. turn your car's ignition to the ON position but dont start the car. there is a screw on the side of the ECU near the LED. turn the screw fully clockwise, wait a second, then fully anti clockwise. the LED should start to flash several times. if it doesnt then fair chance your ECU is fried. after the code test, turn the screw fully clockwise again, wait 1 second, then fully anti clockwise.

are the pads brand new? there was a bad batch of ultimates with this problem which I believe has been corrected.