Amec

check out our range of gauges here http://www.amecautocare.com.au/VEHICLE%20LISTjap.htm

a guy by the name of Paul Gillis, nice bloke.

thanks!

after 3 years of trying we finally won this bloody series in the Road 8 class! The series was tied in points before the last round, but we now have an unbeatable points tally with one round to go due to the GT40 being a no show on the weekend. a little disappointing to win it that way, not sure what the problem is with the GT for it not to turn up. our car was 4th fastest car on track out of 120 cars for the day. big thanks to John from Import Bits who helped me out with some racing slicks for the day

depends on how hot it is. run less tyre pressure when it is hot and more when it is cold. you want to aim for about 40psi on street tyres when they are warm. with semi slicks you want to aim for about 30 psi warm. a tyre pressure gauge is a handy tool. getting the tyre pressure right can make a big difference to your lap times.

Redline Shockproof

I've tried to think of ways to help get people into motorsport, yes its expensive, but I also know how much fun it is perhaps I will be able to help in the future somehow because I would like to. however in the meantime... what about getting a group of guys together to build a race car, maybe 5 or so guys, to make is less expensive to build a competitive car and get into it? and you could share the driving duties evenly between the team.

ok so you need a cage to do the JDM series. what about the Top Gear series? My 300 doesnt have a cage in it yet, do you need a cage to run in the Top Gears?

are you running enough negative camber? even though we run negative 4 degrees camber on our car, we still manage to see a little bit of wear on the outside edge of the tyres. also what tyres are you running? if you are running R spec rubber you should aim to have your tyre pressures around 32 psi hot. it helps to have a point and shoot infra red temp gauge to measure the temps across your tyres to see if you have even contact across the tyre. experimenting with tyre pressures can make a big difference in lap times.

most likely cause is a loose vacuum hose somewhere causing a boost leak.

there will be two plugs on the transmission that take a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. one on the side and one on the bottom. undo the side plug first, then the bottom plug and drain the fluid into a container. once the fluid has drained, replace the bottom plug. you will need some form of pump to run from the transmission fluid into the hole on the side of the transmission which you should be able to get at Autobarn or similar. simply keep filling until the fluid begins to drip out the side of the plug hole, then replace the plug.

Q2 should be about 6 hours to do the install Q3 you really need to get a fuel pressure gauge and set it correctly otherwise you risk flooding the motor or starving it, both of which are not good.

know how you feel, most people are into drift, drag, v8s. for some reason.

you are best off going genuine Nissan when it comes to these kinds of critical parts, get them from your local nissan parts dealer.

your local nissan parts dealer should be able to help you.

the power transistor unit provides spark for your coil packs. its an easy job to replace and a 2nd hand unit can be picked up cheaply, but they are prone to failure. better off getting a new series 2 unit, try nissan. but make sure the ptu is the problem first by swapping it with another one that someone might kindly lend you to see if it fixes the problem.

make sure ALL of your intercooler, turbo / intercooler piping has been cleaned out of any traces of oil. if there is any oil left in your system then your car will still smoke. you could also have oil in your exhaust system as well, but start with the intercooler and piping first.

when is the next event? I would like to come along and spectate. does anyone have the JDM calendar for next year? this would be a great series to promote if someone with a bit of influence got behind it.

what about the steering rack itself?

sounds to me like a dying Power Transistor Unit.

sorry only saw this thread now! doing the JDM series is something I want to get into at some stage. I will be doing the Top Gear rounds next year, will it also be possible to do the JDM rounds as well or will the schedule be too hectic? for example I dont really want to be doing a JDM round on a saturday and back up and do a Top Gear round on a sunday. but yes I am very interested in this format. how did everyone go?

yes thats bloody quick!! Topgear is the next step up from doing the saturday sprints, they usually run on the sunday following. PS no matter what I do I cant get that damned bug off my screen. arrgh!

lots of cars going in the wrong direction including our car but no damage done the throttle got stuck open on the GT40s car causing Paul to go careering into the kitty litter at the end of the straight at 180 clicks! Paul and car are ok though. but his throttle problems continued which meant he could only manage a best time of 60 something. our car managed a 58.06 on a warm QR day, 1st in class and 4th overall out of 110 or so cars. also due to the GTs problems that gives our car a points boost and we are now tied for the lead in the series this year with 2 rounds to go. will probably get some slicks organised for the fronts before the next one to try and pick up some more time. full results are on the queensland raceway web site www.queenslandraceway.com.au

this clutch has been sold.

we can get you these TuneAgent adjustable caster rods for $275 delivered: