Amec

the code 21 is most likely to do with the ignitor module or the cam angle sensor. check the connectors to both of those units and if necessary clean them of any corrosion. also crimp the connector plug pins in so they have good connection with the pins on the units. failing that, one of the units themselves could be faulty. most likely the ignitor module.

can also be a boost leak.

FYI We sold a set of HSD HR series coilovers to one of our customers who drives an EVO. This resulted in his PB tumbling by over 1 second around the Queensland Raceway Sprint circuit to do a 57.7 second lap!! Think about what these coilovers can do for your car!

get it tested for a boost leak would be the first place to start.

wherabouts are you located in Brisbane?

well unfortunately it wasnt our day today. the new diff has turned the car into an animal. acceleration is now another level of awesome if it wasnt already before. the car has so much potential now, we were very disappointed it wasnt able to be realised today. the car will really kick ass once I learn how to drive it. we only managed a warm up lap and a half, a couple of 720s, and a flat spotted tyre from a brake lock up. after that, the new diff started going "clunk clunk clunk". so we pulled off the tyres and let the car rest for a while and pulled out of the event, only to find that the clunk disappeared next time I drove the car!! weird. taking no risks I got the car towed back to the shop. the diff is now out of the car, ready to send back to the diff shop to repair it in time for morgan park supersprints next weekend.

turbo is too big IMO for stock internals. also wont come on boost until probably 5000 RPM. biggest turbo I would recommend would be GT35 rated at 500HP, even then would probably be too laggy for a street car.

the problem can also be caused by the oil pressure sender that screws into the motor, not just the dash.

damn it why do these things have to be held on week days! I would be there with bells on if it was a saturday or a sunday.

permatex form-a-gasket serves 2 purposes: 1. makes it easier to slide new hoses onto fittings 2. seals the hose once dry

not sure about the ride height out of the box. we can do a good deal on the super streets, I will send you a pm.

nope still on sprint circuit.

funny thing is, the competition is just about the same as Sat afternoon sprints, but less cars. so you get more runs in, and less time between runs we will also be making a video of our AMEC race car, will have 4 cameras posted around the track and 1 in car camera. once edited I will post the vid up

for a street car, coilover choice isnt absolutely critical. different story if its a track car.

well yeah I know sometimes they handle like one too but seriously, sounds like a buggered radiator fan clutch to me.

ECU error codes is a good place to start. then would suggest doing a coilpack load balance test. could also be ignitor module on its way out.

Just thought I would share some of the things I have experimented with while installing the new 4.3 ratio diff. The diff itself is a Cusco 2 way clutch type LSD diff (thanks UAS) from an R32 GTR. This should greatly improve acceleration and pulling out of the corners. In order to fit the diff, I had to ditch my 300ZX TT rear subframe and swap in an NA subframe, due to the GTR diff not being able to be bolted straight up to the TT subframe. Normally, where the subframe mounts onto the bottom of the body, there is about a 5mm gap between the subframe and the body. I have ground down the tops of the subframe bushes so that the subframe sits flush with the body. This will lower the ride height 5mm, therefore lower the centre of gravity = better handling. This will also make the connection between the body and the subframe more solid = better handling. Both the new diff and the subframe are lighter than the TT versions so this adds to weight saving goals. Will have pics soon also showing the new TuneAgent adjustable sway bar link pins. The proof is in the pudding though and will find out next saturday at QR whether PB will be broken with the new setup.

setup sounds like where you should have ended up after some experimentation to me

is the ECU showing any error codes?

adjustable shocks are not coilovers. the shocks and springs are separate. you would change the springs to lower the centre of gravity to improve cornering, if you werent going to buy coilovers.

if your balance is more towards road then track, I would suggest adjustable shock absorbers rather than coilovers. if you want comfort then coilovers will be too harsh for you. lowering springs will be ok though and will lower the centre of gravity which equals better cornering.

have you disconnected the stock boost solenoid? checked for a boost leak?

first thing I would be checking is the ignitor module.

bit from left field but could be boost leak, you say it only happens on high boost, perhaps the system can hold the lower boost setting but when you run high boost it cant. your symptom will occur if there is a boost leak.

hard to say unless someone has run both D2s AND ISCs in the same car, which is highly unlikely. I currently have D2s in the AMEC 300ZX, won the QR sprint series last year, so they cant be all that bad.