ardie

So none of the in car video cameras got anything at all? WHAT A WASTE! I want some footage of my car gating before I get rid of this bucket of bolts

BAHAHAHA ice cream container, thats gold, so using that on the misses next time she does something stupid. As for using peak and last, you wont be able to track how the solenoid reacts throughout the rev range and to the various boost loadings. I've installed and helped set up 6 or so of these including whacking one on a 380awkw GTR and every time I do it the same way: late night, industrial area and friend booting it while I tweak it. Also, just out of curiosity, where are you getting the boost lines from? If your mates looking at getting one, I'm going to have one come into my possession within the next couple weeks, if interested in it let me know

If your a dumb arse, you might want to get somebody else to tune it, u can stand on the side of the road with one of those old school grid iron helmets on, watching lol. Just kidding mate, I tried doing it on my own once when I first got it, NOT a good idea. Possible the dumbest thing I have ever done in fact, I almost had a head on! I was just sooooooo sooooooooooo lucky the other driver wasn't some dumb idiot like me , but then again you don't expect traffic at 4 am on a week night in an industrial area.

Actually, dynos are no use really for setting boost controls as they don't provide real world conditions and take alot of time and therefore money to get it anywhere near tuned for the road. You would be better to go to a quiet road and sit in the passenger seat and get your friend to load it up, each time tweaking the settings. And yeah just block off that vac line, I put a screw in it that was slightly too big so it is tight, then i sealed it with silicone and doubled the hose back on itself and cable tied it near the crimp. Hope that helps

Well my house is cluttered with crap, so just throwing this stuff up here I have sitting around up here. All parts are in awesome condition and have come out of my 97 model gtst so they have minimal miles/wear on them. Series 2 afm = $100 Diff (nice and tight, been out of my 97 series 2 for 6 months now) = $300 Exhaust Manifold = $100 Coilpacks = $100 Painted stainless intake pipe, goes from 4 inch down to 3 inch for all you z32 boys and girls out there = $50 HKS ssqv with rb25 adapter plate = $250 3 inch mild steel front pipe from pacemaker = $70 All prices are negotiable, help me clean out some of this stuff and stop my friends teasing me about being a hoarder, I've already started renting out my mates shed to hold my other crap (3 rb 30s, 2 more diffs, a gtr rear end just to mention a few lol) and am afraid I'm going to end up being one of those ppl on today tonight, baby steps, baby steps

Bummmp throw me an offer

All prices negotiable

Hmmm I'm from down the peninsula, might jump into the cruise around frankston area if possible. Hopefully the new clutch and lsd are in so I can wind the boost up some more, bring on the gate once again mwahahaha

You dont know what it makes on high boost tho so you would just be telling the good people of SAU a lie wouldn't you now little petey and YES make your own profile you god damn squid!!!

Power? What power? Its stock as a rock

I wont even dignify such wild allegations with an answer! My car is quiet as a mouse on the road lol FRTHN 4: In regards to what happened, I guess thats understandable if it wasnt you, but your friend is just a plain f**kwit. I was stuck behind a slower car who was obviously a less experienced, so I backed off and waited for the ideal opportunity to pass. She on the other hand, proceeded to drive mere metres from my rear bar through blind corners. I don't mean to have a go, but its just common sense. If you friend comes on anything else like that and acts the same way I'll throw on the anchors, get out and make sure that in the interest of my personal safety as well as that of other, she doesn't drive any further, she was the one gleaming low point of an otherwise extremely eventful day. Next time your tired, plese just have a power nap and keep driving for the benefit of all involved.

Yeah, just imagine that ceffy in the wet! Anyways, thanks soo much for that cheez, everybody had an awesome time I can assure you. Did anybody get a video of my car, it was the 33 with the screamer, if so could you PM me the link Cheers

Hey guys awesome cruze! Was such a good day, lots of fanging (within reason) and no stupid driveing with the exception of the dumb bitch in the ceffy! The chick in the ceffy was an absolute and total f**kWIT!!! She locked them up THREE TIMES while almost running up my arse. I was ready to get out an smack her one. I was going slowly becasue the guy infront of me was, yet she still thought that fanging it up my arse would magically speed up the pack. Seriously, how on earth did you get you license, you are a disgrace and need to take a long hard look at yourself before you kill somebody.

Hahaha nah the 30 rwkw comment was aimed at me as I was never thinking of getting unit till this kit popped up, I was looking at going a garrett gt30. As for all the talk of bolt up kits, if you can spin a spanner yourself the only problem you will run into is spacing on the manifold which means you will need a spacer plate, also you will need new lines (which many companies sell as kits), your dump will have to be modified which can be done by the local exhaust joint and lastly intake, which you can get the exhaust joint to knock up for you. Here is a quick/rough price list just for you to mill over: - GT30R from sliding performance = $1690 Delivered - Braided line kit from horsepowerinabox = $285.00 - Modification for dump = around $100 ish (that’s actually a guess as I do all my welding/metal work myself) - New intake pipe = $100 (my friend just had one made up by his local exhaust joint to suit his gtir for $70) - Other Misc expenses (bolts, studs, silicone etc) = $300-$500 Rough total = $2600 ish Bear in mind that is just a rough list and you can certainly get things cheaper if you shop around and pick up unwanted or used parts off forums which is what I did. If I have left anything out please feel free to add people, but if you look at that, I think the garrett is looking the goods. Just strap it all together and enjoy 280 rwkw hahaha As for the driveability of my car. It hits full boost around 3500. In regards to how it hooks up, I'm probably not the best person to ask as my car is setup for drift so the rear is very rigid and isn’t suited to grip, however I find the power is very controllable so long as you don’t go planting when you shouldn’t. At the moment it fries all of first and second gears when I give it full noise and a bit of third, but when you ramp it onto third at high speed, it is AWESOME. Prime example was last night when I was going along a freeway with my mate in his 33. Identical setup to mine, both drift cars, both with exactly the same bolt ons except he has the 2835. He pulled away from me at first, but then when mine got on song I blasted past him. The way I look at it, more power generally = less response. There are a lot of intangibles that play their part in determining the degree to which this occurs such as comp cover, exhaust housing, manifold etc. When it all comes down to it, the best way to solve this would be to go to an SAU meeting or cruise and ask ppl for a ride in their car, yes it will be embarrassing but it will definitely help you grasp the various advantages and disadvantages of all the turbo setups, plus when they aren’t looking you can raid their ashtrays for shrapnel!

When it comes down to it, you have said you want 280 rwkw right? The only turbo that is going to give you that power using sane boost is the 3037. I agree 110% with everything mafia has said. HKS = wank factor. Only reason I got an HKS turbo was because I got it at a cheaper price than the Garrett version, but then again that shiny HKS on the comp cover must give me at least 30 extra rwkw hey? ALSO as others have said, FPR is not needed, it’s simply a bandaid fix for people on a tight budget who are looking to run just outside the tolerances of stock injectors. Below are a few dynos I got for you, hope these help..............if they don’t I'm going to pull out my hair as I don’t think it could be any more clear. Plain and simple, better response with less power = GTRS. Slightly more lag but more power = HKS 3037. It’s the logics of turbo sizing. Mafias Dyno - Garrett 3037 on 18 psi using (if I recall properly) stock engine running water methanol Injection, fuel system, exhaust and management (hope you don’t mind mate, that was just off the top of my head) My dyno - HKS 3037 on 16 psi (drops a tad towards the end) on a stock engine with fuel system, cooler, management, manifold, external gate and straight through exhaust Compared to WARLORD and Al with their GTRS. Both of them have cams and head work with warlord running a built engine. ALSO Al, haven’t you now switched to a GT30? If so he would be the man to ask as he has had experiences with both turbos on the same car/engine. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=113394

I'm really not all that experienced with towing so please excuse the noobness of my questions. So what are the negatives of an Aristo in relation to towing? I know the torque is produced higher within the rev range in comparison to a larger displacement type engine, but its not like I need it to be a weapon when towing, plus they arn't an rb20esque engine. I would have thought that a 2j with cooler, exhaust and management would have been more than adequate to tow my 33, I have towed it using my AU, a mates clubby (duhhh, of course that would work) and another friends old work ute (cant recall the make of it right now). Also, to those people who are just throwing out random suggestions, please read the thread and answer appropriately while supplying an explanation or evidence that correlates with your answer. I'm just looking for information as like I mentioned, I am a noob tower haha.

My 3037 was originally internally gated and runs the .68 rear, but I welded up the gate and now use a 50mm hks external gate and a trust manifold. As for when i see full boost, its around 3500 rpm when the gate opens. For an rb20 I would suggest the GTRS as it is slightly smaller but still very power productive, or even an rb25 max oversize highflow. Then again, Roy has had some incredibly impressive results with his td06 (which is by no means a small turbo) on his 20, that thing is like a pig in mud when its fed boost. He would probably be the man to talk to as his the resident 20 lover here

Look at my dyno results as well as steve and a few other ppls with the 3037. On 16 psi I make 280 rwkw on a stock engine, for the power your looking at, to stay safe I would go 3037, but then again I am bias. The way i see it, the 3037 will easily make the power your looking at making aswell as leave headroom for a further build down the track, also look at a trust td06 (yes i know you said no suggestions, but ask roy about these and you will see why I suggested it) The GTRS is an awesome turbo, but results vary when shooting for your claimed 280-290 rwkw goal. I have seen it done, but i have also seen alot fall short by quite some margin. Also, when you say turbo swap thread, do you mean Rb25 Turbo Upgrade thread, if so that should answer all your questions if you read it thoroughly. PS if you want a GTRS I may have one in my hands in a few weeks, let me know. Hope that helps

Well googlebot, thats an interesting suggestion. As for the r34 4 door, no thanks, couldnt justify keeping one of those puppies as a tow car plus the stigma thats attached to skylines isn't really what I would like to be associated with me when I'm at work. JZX100 is def up there, would prefer a 2j tho

Recently my brother wrote off his car and needed a daily, so I sold him my AU as I was thinking of getting something nicer and was sick of that bucket of bolts anyway.So now I'm left with just my 33 atm as I pounder the decision on what is next, so I thought I would open up my decision to the people of SAU in hope of making my decision easier. I work in real estate so I need something that will look respectable and display the right image, as well as give a comfortable ride for clients. It will also need to tow my trailer with the 33 on it when I go to the track as well as be able to carry all the spare rims and tires so nothing small and coupe like. I would like something that isn’t a slug as I couldn’t bear driving around something as gutless as the AU again and I would like to tinker with it and modify it over time for a bit of fun. Nothing too insane, just a few bolt ons (chances are it will get out of hand knowing me). Here are a few of the short listed cars, any thought, comments or further suggestions would be much appreciated. - Aristo - Chaser - Ls1/Ls2 powered commo - Xr6t My personal favourite at the moment is the Aristo, however I would like others thoughts and comments on these and other alternatives. Cheers Ryan

yeah i might be meeting up with you guys at stud park depending so pencil me in aswell as my pesty pulsar friend

Yeah man, looks a bit that way huh mate lol ahh well all the more reason to get the diff in and gate you some

As others have said, dont worry about the cooler, mines got a similar battle scar. With the exhaust, take it to an exhaust shop and get them to re-roll the tip, shouldnt cost you much, if anything depending on the genorisoty of the owner/employee.

Hey choku, would you mind letting me know how much the work set you back? I have a set of zeals but I suspect the front tophats may need replacing. Im just trying 2 weigh up the cost of replacing/repairing them vs buying a new set of coilovers all together Cheers Ryan

Ill be in with a couple of mates most likely. Only issue I can see is police. I know this may sound stupid but has there ever been any trouble with police on these cruises? I cant see any issues arising driving wise due to the sedate nature, however what about "random" checks?