wild31

this is all too extreme, i encounted this problem also where my driveway, dips down where the gutter is. and ripping my 32 gtr spoiler off neally everytime, so i found abit of old checker plate steel around 8-10mm thick brought it home, cut it to the size i wanted, approx 1200x2000w i then welded to steel angles to the underside 65x65mm length ways roughly were the wheels go over the plate. also welded 2x 16mmx65mm dynabolts to the under side of plate,either side where plate sites on the tar. then drilled). water still flows underneath, has held up for the last 12months since i installed it, and has withstood my 9 tonne work truck driving over it numerous times. cost me $0 and took me around an hour. can upload pics if needed? can also help you if you need? i have a truck a hiab, and work with steel all day. just need to locate steel. (scrap yard) inbox me for details

yeah ill be removing broken one completely, and getting mounting flange for broken bov, welded closed, just wanted to get some opinions first, as i wasnt sure if just one will be able to hold extra pressure, but yolo. cheers peeps

thats what i also think, there must be a reason why theres 2 though, just want to make sure it will be ok before i get it closed up.

ok, i have this bov setup on my 32gtr, problem is ive broken a plastic nipple on the back of one of the bov's where a vacuum hose goes on. question i have is, can i run just one? obviously i plan to get mounting hole filled,(welded closed) and disconnecting the two unused vacuum hoses etc, just want to know if it will still run ok and will the remaining hold up? car runs 19psi on high boost if that helps at all. i plan on replacing setup completely just have other things to invest in first, and i can do this all at no cost. cheers lee

lol mate i think i found there breeding hole.

well thanks guys for the usefull info it helps, im in the process of going over just about every wire and harness throughout the car. ive found dodgey connections on the temp sender wires so maybe thats all it its, but me being abit of a perfectionist, im going over everyting, soldiering connections where i can re wrapping wires in heatshrink etc, yeah i dont understand the whole clutch making the guage move but strange things happen i supoose. g sensor isnt red which is a positive, quick question, the 2 wires going to the temp sensor, yellow with a green line, and a black wire, they both have silver dots every 50mm along the wires, do i need to find the same wires to replace the ends? need to cut off damaged bits and join on some new stuff or it will be to short, will any old wire the same colour and size work? just the silver dots are throwing me off abit. and to make things worse the under dash area and behind centre intrument console, are an absolute birds nest, so many dodgey joins in wires,cut and tucks every where, i found an old nokia box thing with like phone cord plugs plugged in,another alpine box ipod connector adapter with similar plugs, geeeeeesssuuuuuuuss. an auto electrician would loose there mind if they seen the wiring mess i have, ohh well lucky i love my gtr.

no i didnt do any wiring, and if i knew why the clutch was making the guage go up and down i would have asked the question.

geee cheers, YES i had the god damn car at a trustworthy highly known sydney shop, but i cant justify $150 an hour for labour, and prefer to do things myself if possible. sorry if my car and posts bother you, but i thought this is a forum? and you ask questions on here. ffs!

sorry for delayed reply, havnt been on in a while. i have nothing to update, as im going to get a small cooler and ditch the orginal cooling lines,solenoids and unused lines, and ill have to check the ecu to see if anything has been done, i would assume though that it should be done as i had lockout bar fitted from a well known workshop whilst getting other work done at the time, thanks mate, ill see how it all goes once ive completed everything. and yes it has an aftermarket s/wheel was already fitted before i purchased the car. i just wanted to see if anyone had experienced the same problem

ok, will i be needing a left handed screwdriver for this isssue? just wondering if i can borrow one ifso?

hi, just finished putting my car back toghether over the w,e i had the 4wd fuse pulled before hand, so once car was running i re installed fuse, but the 4wd light hasnt gone off, nor is the torque gauge working? but its defently back to 4wd, help? lol also now aswell my temp gauge is fine until i put the clutch in and release handbrake then it goes of the scale, but seems to go up and down with accelerator, and bumps in the road, ive got absoluley no idea whats going on. any help would be appreciated.

hi all, ive been lerking around for a while now. now i know what your all going to say, but to be honest no care is given, now my r32 gtr had a hicas lock out bar fitted at the start of the year, car has sat around last 5 months in pieces got it all back together now, though im still having the same problem, the hicas light in the cluster flashes, theres no pattern the flashing just does it all the god damn time, and whilst its flashing and the car is stationary,ie, at traffic lights, you can hear a knock from underneath the car, and if you turn the wheel slightly it wil move the steeing wheel back and fowards, and you cant stop it, its only a slight bit, but still a pain. also whilst it flashes its lioke theres no power steering, now ive researched the forums but havnt come accross someone with similar story regarding the knock and flashin, i did find on goolge though, that to remove hicas correctly you should remove rear line,front n rear hicas solinois, and cut in to power steering lines and fit new hoses redirecting the lines to stay up the front of the car, although the such topic, was performed on a r32 gtst, now having a gtr there is no where near the same amount of room in the bay to access solinoids, lines etc, somebody please help fix this god damn problem, thanks in advanced. and no need for know it all smart ass's. cheers guys

your the god damn man! its like the perfect mix of australian muscle and japenese mucsle. insane mate...

i have lock out bar on mine, though now i have the problem of the hicas light flashing with the noise, and it also moves the steeering left to right a little bit by itself... is there somewhere else i have to unplug,remove fuse or something. was fitted by a mechanic though maybe forgot to discoonect something

It does feel abit quicker on high boost...... Yeah that sounds like a plan lol

ahaha sorry dude, new to all this turbo stuff lol, owned a v8 before, sorry for my uneducation, i didnt understand what line meant what..... now i do cheers lol. feel like a goose now

This is all i was given

thanks for your input.. the dyno graph i have really doesnt show much, its a real basic graph. not really happy with that either, im more than happy with the power it has. just was confused abit and wasnt sure if the car could have lost power somewhere along the line, cheers

no i didnt, because i just thought the previous owner must have bullshitted me. but i just spoke to im and he swears it made 290kw, im waiting on a pic of dyno slip. not sure anout injectors being maxed it has sard 800cc, didnt think they would be?

i just cant see how it can only gain 4 kw from e85

hey sorry forget to add, it was tuned at the same place. but when i got it tuned on e85 it was in rwd as im having problems with front drivshaft. i did ask them to put fuse in for tune,,, but they didnt lol. when it was tuned the first time with previous owner it was in 4wd. both on same dyno from same place. im just abit confused..

hi all,, i have a 1990 r32 gtr, purchased with most of mods done by previous owner. when i brought the car i was told it was running 290atwkw on 17psi, with mods, which include, r34 gtr N1 turbos, hks cam gears, sard 800cc fuel rail, injectors to suit, walbro fuel pump, apexi pods, hks to intercooler plumbing and blow off valves, stock intercooler, ally radiator, has a full stainless apexi exhaust, and that all i can think of from memory. i recently had the car in for some other work,minor stuff. but also got the car tuned to run e85, it came back running 294.9atwkw, at around 23psi i qustioned the previous owner and he swears black and blue that it made 290kw when he owned it. is this an average amount of power for mods and e85, or is there something wrong with the car where its lost power, but ifso i thought the tuner would be able to pick up on this? any help or thoughts would be great cheers.

anything lol?

hi all, i have owned my 32 gtr, for 4 months now. i just spent alot of money getting the diff bushes replaced, as it was moving around and knocking. the problem i now have is, when i take off in 1st, or reverse it grinds,shudders and makes noises, its not the clutch as it does it even when the clutch is all the way out. it goes away once it gets to 3000rpm or there abouts. it doesnt do it sometimes if i release the clutch fast. hellpppp ideason what this is? thrust bearing? also it has a cv joint sounding noise from the drivers side front wheel. but in a straight line, and once the noise starts it doesnt go away. ill pulled the 4wd fuse out and the noise went away. any ideas? all ideas and thoughts welcome cheers lee.