R34 Sedan

Yeah I agree with what your saying. Only thing is, my personal preference would be don't run less than a 2ohm load (even if the amp is rated for it) If you lower the impediance (ie the load) it will run louder but also loose sound quality (as you said in your mates running a 1/2ohm)

Do they really only cost about 25K (all costs, compliance etc included)? That's less than a very clean straight stock standard R34 manual. I thought they were about 35K for a sedan or about 40K for a 2 door, or maybe that's the Premium model?

I havn't used them, but some of the higher end Jaycar stuff is pretty good. There are several different ways you could wire them, I think your looking at using 2 X 10 inch subs (each with dual coil) arn't you? I would probably buy 2 mono amps and run 1 sub of each amp (dual coils connected in parallel), but this is just one way of doing it, other people may have other ideas. One thing you definately want to do is to make sure your amps are rated quite a lot higher than your subs. You must work of the RMS power figures, peak power doesn't mean shit. I'd also suggest good quality sound deadening (the difference it makes is incredable), the Jaycar stuff is OK, but if you can afford use the Dynamat Xteme (it's the shit).

Yeah I know what you mean when you say slow improvement, always the case with back surgery, try and be patient (mind you I'm sick to fcuking death of being patient). I'm still not back at work (beleive it's not due to lack of motivation), and it's just over 2 years since my disc replacement. I'm pretty confident I'll get there eventually, but theres no way I'll be able to do the work I used to. At least I finally got my car back after the major accident in May this year, huge repair, total repsray and it looks smick.

Yeah I agree with what your saying, esecially with regards to power ratings. As you said only ever look at RMS ratings (peak is a crock), and make sure your amps are rated at least a little higher than your speakers. Only thing I would disagree with is some of your brand preferences (although I guess it partly comes down to personal preference): Highy end decks I don't like kenwood JVC and Clarion are good My preference would be alpine coax's/splits mtx (don't know) kicker (Good) earthquake (Good) bostons (Excellent) alpine (Good) My preference for speakers would DEFINATELY be Focal subs audiobahn (Don't know) mtx (Don't know) alpine (Good) earthquake (Good) kicker (Good) My preference for subs would DEFINATELY be Focal amps earthquake (Good) alpine (Good to high end) kenwood (Don't like) soundstorm (Don't know) jbl (Good) JL also make some of the best amps around and would be well worth considering

Geoff, You've already ordered it, and it's on the way is it? You'll have to let me know what you think once it arrives. On another note, hows your back going? any further improvement?

Dude, Don't mean to be rude but your asking far to much.

Yeah I 3rd that, bought my R34 from him as well. Good quality cars, good prices, very helpfull, and NO hard sales presuure. Also did me a great deal on some wheels and a turbo timer AFTER the sale.

The guy who did mine used rods behind the door frames and guards to tap them out, except one dent he couldn't access, he stuck something to it (with a hot glue gun) and pulled it out. This didn't cause any damage and it just popped out.

Yeah I had this done on 2 cars a while ago (sorry no pics), through someone else. Had about 8 small dents in total, all were completely removed (couldn't tell) with absolutely no damge to the paint work. If done by someone good it works really well, gotta be happy with that.

I'm with Stan, some of those prices seem very expensive. I know I'm an old Bastard (35), but I'm paying $1406/yr for 30K car with Torque. I lost my license 2 1/2 yrs ago (clean for the past 5 years otherwise), told them and it incresed the excess from the normal $600 to $1200. Don't know what the deal with under 25 is, might be worth checking? Also spoke to GIO about a quote the other week, they now have a department that deals with import and modified vechles. When I mentioned the loss of the licenses, the girl replied no problem we insure the uninsurable, quote came to $1440, don't know might also be worth checking.

Yeah, very happy with it, had it up on the hoist and the quality is the same underneath. Huge relief, I didn't really know what to expect after that sort of damage. Got the plates about a week before the accident, forgot about them after that, more worried about the damage!

Unfortunately no pictures of the damage (but it was seriously fcuked), attached are pictures of the repair job. Pretty much everything behind the back doors (except mechanics & suspension) was replaced, including the rear chassis rail. Total respray.

I have not heard of them, why do you ask? If it's because you know them or they've been recommended by a mate then that's fine. But if your insurance have recommended or are pushing you to take it to them, DO NOT have a bar of it, take it to the repairer of YOUR choice.

I don't have any of the damage (but believe me it was farked), I'll take some after shot's and post them up in the next few days.

Yeah not good luck, try not to worry to much if you play your cards right it should work out OK. Similar thing happened to me in May. I was in an R34 GTT Sedan, fresh import I'd had for 3 months, very clean and straight. I was stationary in traffic and was rear ended by a van (with a bull bar) at full speed. She hit me so hard her roof buckled, my rear window imploded on impact (even the dash was coved in glass), and the whole rear end was a complete mess, included both quarter panels (plus I had 2 amps custom mounted in the boot) . The only advantage of the bull bar was the main impact was higher than being hit by a car, so chassis damage was minimal. I don't think you neccesarly need an import specialist panel beater, just one whose bloody dam good. Parts arn't a problem anyone can order them through Nissan Spare parts (delivery takes about 10-12 working days from placing the order). That said your car is still going to be off the road for a bloody long time, but that's not important, a quality job is. I took mine to my usual panel beater whose a Prestige Mercedes specialist. They pushed for the car to be written off, but the insurance insisted on repairing it. The repair required half the car to be sprayed so payed for the other half and got a total respray. They replaced everything from the rear window back (except machanics and suspension), including the quarter panels. Cost 10K in parts alone. Got it back 3 weeks ago, they've done an exellent job of the repairs and the paint looks smick. Since having it back I've put it up on a hoist and you can't tell it's been repaired at all, apart from being spottlessly clean, give it 6 months and you just won't be able to pick it. I havn't taken the car for a real hard thrash yet, but I've taken it for a couple of good drives and had it up to about 140, and it feels fine. I had been planning on selling mine when I got it back, but now I'm definately going to keep it (provided the tyres wear evenly). Let me know if you want the panel beaters details, their in Brookvale (Northern Beaches)

Yeah that's me, didn't see either of you though

Definately split's in the front, but they are a complete waste of time in the back.

Yeah mine are mounted near the windscreen. Other thing is when your installing quality gear you really must sound deaden the front doors to get the most out of it. Really is amazing the difference it makes. As with everything it must be installed properly, if you can afford it Dynamat Xtreme is the best, but some of the others are OK. Heaps of info on sound deadening in these forums.

R34's have 6.5" front and rear, when I replaced mine they fitted in straight in no problem. 6X9's are shit, don't bother. Definately get some amps if you can afford it. But as Chris said, good quality sound deadening will probably give you much better sound improvement than anything else, especially in the front doors (it makes a HUGE difference). Just make sure it's installed properly.

Yeah it could be the front speakers running on high pass (but I doubt it) did you have them set on high pass in your other car. I would have tought the most likely problem would be a dodgy earth somewhere.

Don't bother with 6 X 9"'s (especially if you have sub) they sound shit. Just get some 2 ways but stick to the same brand and series of speaker your running in the front.

If you have $600 focal speakers (very nice) you don't want to be mounting them in the A pillars as the positioning is extrememly poor sound wise. I had a professional install done on mine with a pair of focal split's, and they mounted the tweeters at the back of the dash board (tilteded on an angle), paying great attention to the positioning and angle they mounted at. If your spending the money of this sort of quality gear it;s really worth positioning the speakers correctly. Extremely happy with mine, they really look quite neet.

Yeah I see what the sales man is saying, you want your splits in the front with the treaters mounted on the dash board (facing you), as this is where all your high end comes from. Split's in the rear are a complete waste of time, the rear is really only used for fill. You want most of your sound (especially the high end) comming from the front. I'd go the 5" split's (or 6" if they fit) in the front, and either 2 or 3 way 6.5" coaxials in the rear. The clarion mono block amp sounds fine, but I would also definately get an amp for the front and rears as well.

Hey, if you really want to install a proper system you MUST have the same brand and series of speakers in the front and rear. They don't necessarily have to be the splits but they must be a Clarion speaker from the same series. As you don't need split's in the rear, a clarion 2 way coaxial 6.5" speaker (from the same series) would probably be a good choice. The reason they must be the same front and rear is they must be made of the same material (to really sound good), and have the same crossovers or you can end up with phase issues. The sub can be a different make of speaker but the front and rears must be the same. If you want any real bass or volume you definately need a seperate power amp. Contrary to popular belief your amp should always be rated higher than you speakers.