W0rp3D

First time was last night and today in a shopping center car park, not sure where or which one in fact Im not 100% sure were I am now, apart from across the road from a pub lol

Now I feel like a stalker, been in Perth for under 24 hours and seen your car twice

I was walking back from the pub when I saw you guys parked, only got into Perth a few hours earlier and you guys were the first skylines I saw.

Spotted wpn34 and 2 other 34's in Hammond park, very nice trio

So from what you have said so far you have an R31 with an NA RB30, but in your info it says an R31 with an RB25DET, question is how much power do you have? If you are still running the NA RB30 or stock RB25 then forget about 300+ rwkw, go with the 25 and aim for 270-280, trust me, i had a fairly stock 25 and was aiming for 300+, had it tuned and hit a wall at 250 but f**k me, 250 is fun and safe on a standard 25 and there will be no f**king around with cross breeding parts that may or may not work well together, stick with the proven path to power its a lot cheaper an easier, on the other hand if you want bragging rights that you have something custom in there then you best start saving lots of money. As for the bragging rights tho with only 320 my first question (and everyone else i know) would be "why bother". EDIT kitty has n00b aids!

Use to be a heap on ebay but now that i want one they are all gone, jdm obsession and nengun have them but they are $300 plus postage!

That would be "geese" with big moufs!

By the sound of it you will have to use the banjo off the rb20 on the block (can you get a standard line from the wrecker) and the 25 one on the turbo, just cut them off with about an inch or so of copper line still attached them use some hose over the remaining line to join them, thats what I did, just use 2 hose clamps on each one to be sure it is secure.

Soaking the bolt in wd may help, wont hurt tho, if your done for the night cover it in wd and let it soak over night. I can't remember which way the water lines go in factory form coz I changed mine, the one on the back of the turbo goes to the block and the one at the front goes around the back of the head on mine, was easier that way and still works fine.

They may have used some sort of sealant or loctite, either way it has to come out, as you said if it breaks call the thread doctor, he removed my broken exhaust manifold studs, he is good. Its also good to see you doing it your self, its a lot cheaper and more satisfying, its also a good way of understanding what goes where and why.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-019&Category_Code=FTG Should look like those.

I have some old ones here, I changed mine to different ones when I put the 3540 on so I don't need them if toy want it, also have one of there copper lines, probably the one off the block (all of this is off a 25 I assume they are the same), if your going to use the old gaskets again get some permatex high temp silicone gasket maker and coat both sides just to be sure.

Lol, what about a 12 or 14mm spanner for the dump pipe bolts? Also forget about all the 1/2 inch bullshit just get a 3/8 and 1/4 drive combination kinchrome socket set the 1/2 inch is too big for tight spots.

isnt the tr43 a direct replacement for the standard turbo? If so then you will need a new dump pipe gasket and T3 gasket and i would suggest new copper washers (the gaskets and the copper washers may be optional but you may as well do it) i believe there is a tutorial around here on how to do it. I also understand that you dont have the know how or tools, doing this is the perfect way to get experience and for the quoted $800 you could get all the tools needed and have $400 change (probably more like $600 but i over estimated). The only other thing you need is a kind sole from here with a little experience to guide you through it. This is a moderate to easy job when done with a little guidance, well worth getting your hands dirty and a little experience.

Ended up getting one from mtq in dandenong, now i have to find some where that has longer studs, one bolt shop i went to had a look through one of there suppliers books and told me you cant get them longer, i know you can i just have to find out where, doing a search of old threads but every one keeps saying the same thing "bolt shops" well so far i have been to 3 and none of them have any thing.

Thanks, just sent them an email as thats the only contact info i could find, pretty much given up on getting it today but i still need to find one, only one seller on ebay is in aus, would prefer to pick it up that way i dont get screwed around with postage.

Any one have one or know some where that stocks them that is open today? If not today why else can I get one from, only one seller on ebay and I don't think there in oz.

What are the chances that you still have the exhaust manifold (only really want the studs) and the 10mm spacer to go with it?

Some one will correct if Im wrong but I don't think the 20 head will fit on the 30 and the 25 manifolds wont fit on the 20 head, better of going down the proven path of the single can rb30 or use the 25 head.

That would be great, would prefer not to buy off the useless prick but Im out of options.

Do you know of a dealership that does not need a vin to look up a part, use to be chick at frankston but she has left apparently and the nufty that answered the phone would not even look up the part with out a vin number

Have not tried this time but last time they had to order them, if I can't find another source I will give them a call.

Any one know some where that I could get one from today? Would prefer south east burbs but if I have to travel then thats the price I have to pay for leaving it so late lol