GTS-167

Cool, cheers for that. Although I dont want to chew through heaps of fuel.... work pays for it. Decent amount of highway k's too so that part wont be so bad. I was thinking of a diesel mondeo, titanium pack. Bout 10k more, really nice car but nowhere near as cool. And I prefer at least some drive to the rear wheels.... plus the stags are better featured for less money, regardless how cool

Howdy all, As stated i'm after an M35, pretty keen for an Autech 2.5T, white. I've had a look at Sinergy and Redline yards, talked a bit with them and they can obviously source me one, and it'll be low $20k, low kilometres, dealer prepped, warranty etc etc.... And then I see one on carsales for well under $20k, although 100,000 kms but some nice mild mods and seems well looked after etc.... So, bit undecided. Coupla questions, Is $1650 a rare bargain for what seems like a nice car? Or even Autechs are starting to drop to those sorts of prices generally? Is it worth buying from a dealer? Bear in mind i travel all of SA for work, looking at 30,000 km/year or more.... warranty and low k's are desirable. If it shits a turbo I don't wanna be off the road cos I'm fronted with expensive repairs I can't afford instantly, and I don't wanna be trying to sell a 200,000 kms+ car in 3 years time. I'm not against buying interstate, but if I do it from a dealer I can prob get everything I want easily. I spose overall I'm just wondering if people think it's worth the extra coin, obviously you will always pay extra from a dealer, especially Sinergy

is this still for sale??

Thats awesome, the value has obviously come down on these a lot in the last year or two. Absolute collector's car.... they are definitely just another HR31 - to most people. RB30DE is very different from the usual 80's jap stuff, so it's just rare and different, that's all they have going for them. Mind you one of these in stock form would walk all over any stockish RB20, and prob leave a standard GTS-R behind too.

If you want an NA engine for the pure reasons of response and having grunt instantly (within a certain rev range) then do it. Turbos are overrated in my opinion unless you're chasing 200+rwkw. If you want outright power figures, but to be different..... then no, prob not gonna be worth it. NA engines are just different.... if you are a true NA fan and want good power... 170-180rwkw is doable, and personally I don't think it will be such a pig as everyone says.... provided you go and do it properly with an RB30DE running VCT etc..... $$$ Probably best to use a NEO head so you have the best VCT system available, if you have cash to blow then adapt the GTR 6-throttle setup to a NEO head and you basically have an M3 style motor in your hands. But....... budget $20K for the build.... you migt get some change from that to pay for it's first service! If you're happy with NA 150-160 rwkw (with lots of torque still...) then go for a 25 head, stock internals...... just get the harmonics issue of the 30 bottom end sorted and you'll see some nice revs. Power becomes less important with 30DE's..... it's the extra torque that makes them quick. If you want big numbers...... and one of the quicker cars out there - fail. Drop a turbo motor in..... 25DET cheap these days.... or even just turbo a 25DE, put 10psi through that with supporting mods..... higher comp + boost = responsive power, just don't go silly on the boost or it will pop.

Yay.... I got another one!! Ex-Cop.... 1 of 7

Stock except for pod and better intake piping, and exhaust recently done. Didn't really wanna do that but it was stuffed. I love it.... I want a GTS1 as well though!

I'm guessing RB25's (your engine) have oxygen sensors in exhaust the same as older RB's My car is using a lot of fuel at the moment due to a choked up catalytic convertor, which has caused the O2 sensor to play up..... they can just wear out anyway. Apparently common for them to go in hotter weather. If the ECU is not getting accurate readings..... it will over fuel so as not to run too lean and damage engine. Check/get checked your O2 sensor..... take it to a mechanic and get them to do tune and check for stuffed sensors..... could just need a good tune up.

Won't be much longer anyway.... especially if that's at the wheels I've heard RIPS (I think) in NZ build some pretty tough motors with stock internals. Wonder what they do??

Yeah that's it, 140.... I've got one Doesn't surprise me though..... R31's are a fair bit lighter than a 4dr R33. The GTS's make pretty decent power up top compared to normal RB30E's, and 3.9 diff instead of 3.7

www.howstuffworks.com

Well there ya go..... Get a GTS25 R32..... when off ya P's go get some turbo gear, bolt it STRAIGHT ON without dropping compression and you'll be wiping R33's all over the place. A lot of people think NA compression is no good for turbo engines..... tune it right and you'll be as quick as people running heaps more boost, plus less lag. Means you can go ahead and start doing some stuff to your car knowing you'll keep it, so you can do stuff like stereo, wheels, suspension without having to transfer it into another car, or lose money on it by selling the car.

If you mean can you sell a GTS for more than you pay for it after a year or so.... very unlikely. But you won't lose much either...... if SA adopts these gay P-Plater restrictions then the market for non-turbo cars is only gonna get bigger..... so I doubt you'll lose much at all when selling it.

They have these laws for a reason ya know. You're an inexperienced driver who has only really driven FWD gutless shitbox. Don't get a 200kw RWD car..... get a GTS for a year and then upgrade. Any skyline is going to be considerably quicker than your Hyundai - don't forget that.

3 litre bottom end is where it's at.... sacrifice 1000rpm for lots of torque, more lower in the revs too. What compression you at?? Shave the head a little??

Just to add to this whole NA shitfight...... NA engines draw in their intake air under their own steam.... usually it's "Natural Air" Turbo/Suprcharged engines have a similar "Natural" charge of intake air..... just more of it at once. Hence if there is more air in there...... there is also more oxygen = more power (tuned correctly of course) Nitroused engines usually draw their intake charge into the engine "Naturally".... ie. without assistance from any blower of any sort, so the amount of air/gases is the same as a "Naturally Aspirated" engine The difference that makes an nossed engine not NA.... is that the intake charge it has drawn into the motor is anything but "Natural"...... it has been manipulated to contain more oxygen, and therefore is not "Natural" So for my money..... nossed engines may indeed draw in their air "Naturally"...... but that's not all of it. They're not drawing in natural air, so they're not naturally aspirated.

we could prob all fit in your head too!!!!! hahahhahah see z signature!

interesting sig!!!!!!!hahahahahaha

weshould watch that movie the hills have got eyes and ten about 13ocockdepart on cruise!!