govich

Why not try taping your new wiring onto the end of the old stuff and pulling it through.

LOVE your in-car vid . What sort of setup did you use for holding the camera?

You can spend HEAPS of money on audio. Look at a nice set of Dynaudio, Focal, Hertz, Boston (etc) 2-way splits ($400) for the front, and just a set of average 6-6.5" coaxials for the back ($100), find a 12"sub and box for $200 and spend the rest on a 4-channel amp and wiring. Jaycar's 4x100WRMS amp has more than enough power and sells for around $300. Run the front splits off 2 channels, bridge the other 2 channels for the sub and run the coaxials off the head unit and it'll sound awesome.

This is only because your turbo car's speed increases exponentially (ie. it keeps accelerating faster and faster the more speed it piles up) - a parabola doesn't even come close to modelling a turbo car's speed over time it might be right initially because of the wheelspin but it won't be right afterwards.

Good choice Tracid. Those who are saying they'd rather a GT-T need to drive a 2JZ turbo car When deciding on a car to buy, i only JUST chose an R33 over an older MA70 Supra with a 1JZ conversion, and that was only because the interior was a shocker (main thing) and i didn't like the back of it. The only thing that puts me off a Supra RZ is the interior. The JZ series engines are awesome. Though Supra RZ vs (any) GT-R is a tougher decision IMO.

Tell your mate he's a fool. You need to stop being a fairy and go out and get a T51R, don't waste your money on insignificant things like fuel pumps, injectors, proper ecus and stuff. ps. don't do this

Oh..i thought it was more common. Well my car was popping (out the exhaust that is) on overrun occasionally with the aftermarket BOV and hasn't been with the stocker (even when i've been provoking it) so i assumed so.. I guess the numbers won't lie when i'm done.

If it makes the same peak torque and puts out 100 less max kw at the wheels then it either doesn't rev hard enough or torque drops off something savage up high. The stock ECU gives me around 380km/tank with FMIC, exhaust and filter. Power FC coming soon enough to lean out mixtures during normal driving... I'm testing out how stock and aftermarket atmo BOVs compare for fuel consumption at the moment.

driving along with AOL37H (i think) R32 GTSt today in the excel runabout..nice wheels.. dammit where the hell do you guys go? i haven't seen one other skyline while driving in mine. must all be scared of it

:laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: Love your work mate.

Fair enough, everyone has their preferences. I prefer the looks of an R33 but that's me. Dunno about choosing an R34 over an R33 GTR either way though. You're a lucky guy. Just don't start random fights on the road because there's lots of people with a lot less to lose than you.

If it's any consolation, he apparently crashes his R34 3 times every 2 months. Relax, who cares. You shouldn't care what others think about your car if you're happy with it. I'm sure there's plenty of BMW M3 etc drivers who reckon he just drives a povo R34.

Fixed Bad luck on the crash, best to leave angry people alone on the road.

Just to let you guys know, everything's fine and sorted now. Finally.

yep, as predicted there was a blown fuse on the battery line. it's on the main panel under the steering wheel but it's one of the obscure ones in chinese characters (i can read japanese characters), i'll take a photo of it tomorrow in daylight. the only problem i have now is the head unit resets after a while, but the clock doesn't so i know it's not the car. looks like i have more work to do :

see now that would make sense. i never thought of the battery 12v wire being shorted somewhere. this allows for a whole number of other fuses that could be blown - main lines from the battery as opposed to just audio fuses. the battery 12v line is always 12v and the accessory line is 12v when the key is turned. of course. i'll post pictures when i have a look. thanks!

exactly.. i spent 3 hours looking over fuses and looking for hidden wires etc i connected exactly the same wires that the last head unit used (no more no less) and it doesn't work properly while the last one did :\ stumped for now...will see what i can do this weekend

nah the thing is the previous unit was aftermarket (kenwood) but worked fine, the clock didn't reset. the unit was just old and stuffed and didn't display anything. so my conclusion is i farked something up and i'm trying to find out what cos i can't figure it out! yeah and it resets to 1:00 which is weird yeah..

yeah i tried many ways of connecting the accessory and battery 12v lines on the head unit and car ends and nothing would work except connecting them all together (as in all 4 wires together).. obviously this can't be the way to do it but it's the only way that works at the moment and i'm trying to figure out why. i didn't solder any of the connections just so i can take them apart later and fix it. btw my car is a series 1. cheers guys edit: bit of thinking.. without the head unit connected, the only way the accessories would work was to connect the 12v battery and accessory lines together. however the clock would still reset every time i turned it off. why wouldn't the 12v line still be giving 12v when the key is out? on friday i'm going to whip out the multimeter and see what's going on with the 12v battery line. hopefully it'll come because at the moment the head unit turns on quickly and defaults to 87.5mhz FM and loud volume which is annoying.. and it's always 1am..

believe me i've checked both those fuses 10 times and they're both fine :\ the fuses aren't blowing; the cd player turns on and works perfectly every time, it's just that when i take the key out both it and the clock reset - no 12v.

Hi guys, i installed a new head unit today and got it and all accessories to work fine when the car is on. My problem is, when i turn the key to the off position both the head unit and clock reset. Obviously this is because they're not getting a 12v feed with the key in the off position. I know I fiddled with the wiring heaps and might have knocked out a fuse but it isn't one that i could find. Note that the only way i got all the accessories (clock, beeper) to work was to connect both the 12V battery line and the accessory power line from the car to the head unit's power line. It just doesn't work if it's connected up properly; the clock and head unit don't even turn on, and the open door beeper beeps reeeeally soft. Anyone know of any fuses i might have blown? or have a solution for this? Cheers

Yeah, my point is it goes into ALSD fail to protect itself and thus stops being an LSD.

The diff might be going into some sort of self protection mode (judging from your other thread you mean it's shutting off after 20sec) because doing burnouts/drifting etc wears them out relatively quickly. Though this is just 'what i reckon'

Hey mate, can you comment on the legality of this setup? I'm currently trying to decide on some sort of CAI/airbox setup so this would help. Cheers

Hi guys, I'm going to install a new headunit into the R33 this week and want to lay down another RCA run to the boot for my sub. I know most cars (well the ones i've worked on) have the wiring running along the door sills, but i just want to be sure before i go pulling the interior apart. What's the exact path the wiring takes? (ie. beside the rear seats? under them?) Should i run them along the driver's or passenger's side? (is there a difference?) Do i have to do anything 'big' like taking out the rear seats? I appreciate any advice that might make it easier. Cheers