govich

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonance It might be vibrating up against something, or be a loose connection in the piping somewhere, or something loose in there, or it's just poorly designed..

Why are you even considering a Japanese import? Buy a commodore/falcon and enjoy lots of torque at low rpm, quiet and easy highway cruising <2000rpm, cheap servicing (as you'll obviously cover lots of kays), and the fact that any mechanic in Australia will have spare parts.

Have a look at some dyno charts from engines without ridiculously large turbos attached to them. From my own dyno sheet the engine sees 12psi from 2700rpm (stock turbo), with ~95rwkw at 3000rpm. From a fairly conservative estimate of 110kW at the crank, that converts to around 350Nm of torque, which is a big chunk for a 2.5L engine at that speed..

Just in case there was doubt in anyone's mind.. EBC Green Stuff - fine for fairly gentle street use, lasted about 2-3 laps at Wakefield before fading and were rubbish by the end of the day. A few days of normal street driving later they essentially melted onto the discs and had to be replaced. Now trying out Ultimates as a street pad, changing to DS3000s for track days. I'm almost totally convinced that having a dedicated set of pads, like tyres, for the track is the best way of doing things.

Breather hose gone. Feel free to make offers on the rest of this stuff people.

Hertz HS300. Single voice coil, 4ohm, 350W RMS. See end of the first post. Baulkham Hills/UNSW/Repco Artarmon or North Parra. PM me with details of when you want to meet, i'm happy for you to come and compare the two pipes.

Bleed valve spoken for. Cmon guys n gals, i just know you're all itching to buy my stuff

Hey guys, i found a fair bit of stuff lying around in the garage which i don't need anymore so it's up for grabs. I'm located in Baulkham Hills. Item 1: OEM R33 RB25 Exhaust cam gear Reason for sale: replaced with adjustable item Info: good condition, as removed Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/1.jpg Price: $25 Item 2: OEM R33 RB25 Fuel pump Reason for sale: replaced with walbro high flow pump Info: good working condition, wasn't confident in its ability to cope with >200rwkW Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/2.jpg Price: $50 Item 3: Turbosmart Type II adjustable BOV Reason for sale: car came with it, replaced with stock item Info: fine working condition, few scratches, flange bolts straight onto factory RB25 BOV mount Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/3.jpg Price: $100 Item 4: SOLD Item 5: K&N Pod Filter with adapter to suit RB25 AFM Reason for sale: cheap Apex'i filter came along, couldn't resist Info: good condition, used for approximately 10,000km Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/5.jpg Price: $50 Item 6: 6x OEM RB25 (Series 1) Coilpacks Reason for sale: started misfiring, replaced with Splitfire coils Info: definitely misfiring, could look through and find which ones are/aren't and re-use them or just tape them up Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/6.jpg Price: $100 for the set Item 7: SOLD Item 8: Hertz 12" Subwoofer in ported, carpeted box Reason for sale: amplifier playing up, no interest in replacing it therefore no use for subwoofer Info: 350W RMS, 700W Peak, works perfect, never run hard Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/8.jpg Price: $100 Item 9: Jaycar 2x150WRMS amplifier (old model) Reason for sale: playing up Info: works fine for a while, then starts popping and generating noise through one terminal only, haven't taken it apart completely but board seems fine Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/9a.jpg, http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/9b.jpg Price: $50 Item 10: VDO SSP1711 165mm Dual Cone speakers Reason for sale: bought for dad, unwanted Info: 35W RMS, 140W Peak, come with untouched grille, cabling and box, one speaker develops slight buzzing at reasonable volume and low frequency only Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/91.jpg Price: $50 Prefer pickup for all items, especially the sub. Pickup is available from Baulkham Hills, Repco at either Artarmon or North Parramatta, or UNSW, depending on timing. Cheers

This would be true if all the cars we're talking about were as Nissan released them from factory. Copper is probably the best thermal conductor you will find, and Iridium/Platinum plugs will tend to retain heat near the tip which could lead to pre-ignition under extreme conditions. Just FYI, i run NGK BKR6E-11 copper plugs at 1.1mm gap (with Splitfire coils) at 0.85bar boost pressure in an RB25 and haven't had a hint of misfire in the few months it has been this way. edit: Just to add to this, i'm not necessarily saying Iridium/Platinum plugs are bad. The advantage with these materials is in their relatively high strength, higher melting point etc, which means the tips can be made finer and you then don't need as much voltage to create spark, and also that they will erode more slowly, leading to the much longer service life. Technically you should be able to run a larger gap with Iridium plugs, and you'll see some OEMs recommend using larger gaps with these. If you look at NGK's racing spark plug catalogue, there's no copper plugs to be found anywhere. It's all about matching plug to application.

Walbro's low pressure pump in this design is part number GSS315. GSS341 is the high pressure variant.

Guys, FYI, i've been told (by UAS) that connecting the can as immediately above is illegal, as you have to block off the link between the head and intake manifold as well as head and inlet piping. The correct and legal way to have a catch can setup is as posted by NSA11N, with the OEM pipe linking the two rocker covers in tact. You need to have a pipe leading from the top of the right rocker cover to your catch can, and the other pipe from the catch can to the OEM piping that leads back to the intake. This ensures the system is 'closed loop', and is the way i have mine set up. It works fine. edit: Here's a photo of what i mean: http://members.optusnet.com.au/gbozic/cc.jpg

Love your work. mmm leather smell

After a bit of research i believe the HP Walbro fuel pumps are part numbers GSS341/342. The non high power ones are in the lower 300s.

We already know Nissan's answer to your question. I'd say that's a safe bet.

For those who are going to run into this problem in the future, here's a picture of what i've done: The hose is SV21 Camry heater hose (was a nicely shaped bend), held on with 2 clamps where the coolant enters to make sure it doesn't come out. Haven't had any problems in about 3 weeks of daily driving (too busy to get around to replacing the core). FYI, Nissan quoted me ~$350 for a replacement heater core.

If you can get it in black i'm in.

IMO you should try other ECUs in your car instead of your ECU in other cars so you can really eliminate them as the problem.

Put it on a dyno. If that fuel usage is out of the ordinary for you, it might be oxygen sensor related, and yours is playing up, so check out what's happening. If the ECU is playing with mixtures to account for a 0 oxygen sensor reading, it won't really matter what you do on the SAFC.. Failing that, trial fitting another ECU might be a good idea.

LOL. Chuckled at this for some reason. 60kW = 60kJ/s. I think you'll find a decent estimate of the specific heat of oils will be around 2 kJ/kgK. Meaning 2kJ of energy is required increase the temperature of 1kg of our theoretical oil up one degree (K/C). So at full load, assuming 60kW of energy is transferred to the oil as heat, and that we have 1kg of oil, there is potential for raising its temperature 30 degrees every second. Simple analysis suggests we need somewhere else to put all this energy.. Anyway, a dyno will read lower because of inefficiency everywhere. 250rwkW in a R33 GTS-T will correspond to 300-320 kW at the flywheel. /arguing

You could be onto something Dave. The BKR series are a really common plug nowadays. It could well be that Nissan wanted to conform with newly introduced ISO stuff with the newer engine. Sounds feasible to me..

I wouldn't say it's a cause for concern. I don't see how the spring could be damaged. Having said that i've always used BKR6E-11 plugs myself (RB25).

You're probably describing the sound from the stock BOV recirculating air on partial throttle openings to make your drive smoother. I guess you could hunt down an aftermarket recirculating valve that doesn't do this if you really want to keep the pod.

Love your work man. Put me down as a definite for your September run. A 20x4 screen sounds good too. I reckon this thing is a good reason to go piggyback - i'm gonna love having one to go with my e-manage ultimate. Actually..... PM sent.

Try a different (known working) AFM. I've had a similar problem.

Careful, you might actually be talking to people with real experience and/or knowledge obtained from tertiary level study.