govich

Properly matched turbo, good cam timing, well designed inlet and exhaust manifolds (not cheap), minimise piping and number of bends, use large radius bends, efficient intercooler, light flywheel/tailshaft, light wheels (etc), good EBC, proper engine management and finish it all with a good tune!

The turbo won't spool unless you're 'giving it'. I manage to drive around perfectly sanely with the stock turbo which gives a full 0.85bar at 2700rpm (on a dyno). Yet when i'm trotting along at 80 in 4th at 3000rpm, 100rwkW and easy overtaking/hill climbing is a stab of the throttle away. Have a look at how much GT30 equipped cars are making at 3000rpm. Your choice, do you want a street car or a race car?

It's up to you really. You can have a nice turbo like a HKS 2535 or GTRS and have full boost not long after 3000rpm, peak at 250rwkW and have a ball tearer of a street car that'll do low 12s at the strip. Or you can buy a GT3040 and drive around on the street with nothing below 4200rpm and wheelspin above (in the early gears which are what we use to accelerate on the street). Horses for courses..

Get a highflow or sensible turbo if you're building a street car. The stock exhaust manifold is horrible from an efficiency perspective.. replacing it with a proper tubular manifold will decrease spool time and promote easier flow through the head..ie. potentially lower boost for the same power.

Actually i've just realised that the SLIP and ALSD lights are on the tacho, not the speedo. Does this kit affect the operation of any of the other gauges (other than the speedometer) ? Would i be able to order the speedometer alone? (stock units for pressure are fine for me). I'd be a definite if so.

Any ideas on compatibility with ALSD models? (SLIP and ALSD globes). I'd probably be happy if all i have to do is drill a few holes. Tentatively in.

Count me in if i'm in time. PM details. Cheers!

On your picture: 1 - VC 2 - Purge (ie they cross over, top goes to bottom, bottom goes to top) and the last hose (fuel tank) on my car just routes downwards.

Have you actually tried running an atmospheric venting BOV in place of the stock one? When i bought my car it had a turbosmart atmo BOV on the stock ecu, with the recirculating pipe blocked off with a welsh plug, and it ran without a problem at idle, accelerating, redlining, whatever. Later i bought a stock BOV for it, and there was no difference again, except the sound (i think atmo bovs are a wank anyway). Make sure the return pipe is sealed up tight and it will work fine.

Put the stock filter onto the walbro pump.

Lower start boost (boost at which it starts opening the wastegate) and/or lower gain to get rid of spiking. I have set at 55% and gain at 8% for 0.85bar (with start boost ~0.3-0.4bar to keep it from spiking on quick bursts) and it spools to full boost at 2500rpm and holds it flat until the stock turbo runs out of puff up high. For low boost, set on 5%, no gain, start boost 0 i think from memory, gets up to about 0.5bar and is good for everyday driving (no spiking at all).

Here's a nice diagram i made up of your options with out feul system !!1

Alternative? If you mean without upgrading the fuel system, ... it'll be a nice effective paperweight

Tried replacing the igniter? I've got one here you can try, and keep for not much if it works.. pm if interested My car has done this before and the fix was a replacement igniter.

Paul, the e-Manage Ultimate has a USB port so connecting a laptop takes 2 seconds. Making changes is child's play (although knowing what you're doing is a bit tougher ). Although it might not be as convenient as the hand controller when you're stuck somewhere, it does also mean you don't have a chunky controller on your dash when you don't need it (i assume most of the time). I'm perfectly happy with the EMU although i can't imagine it being any different if i had got a PFC. turbs33, if you're worried you can always back up your map via USB before doing the update.

The guys at Unique Autosports didn't think it necessary for my power level. Probably when pushing harder yeah. If you run a direct feed the pump will be pumping it's hardest all the time though.

Installed a Walbro the other day, not difficult at all when compared with the mucking around required to install a Bosch pump. With regards to the pumps having problems, any good workshop should tell you the stock wiring won't really do for this pump. I gave mine a good ground and it works fine, though it's not being pushed with just over 200rwkW. Although to be honest, the only reason i didn't get a Tomei/Nismo pump is i couldn't wait a few weeks for them to arrive (stock pump failing)..

Nope, no warning lights for me. Doesn't really sound like the same problem unfortunately. mad082, not entirely sure what the problem was with the actual AFM, just know that the car works fine after it was replaced. Might open it later but i cant see myself being bothered..

Just for closure, the problem ended up being a stuffed AFM. One new AFM later and it's purring again. Thanks Cubes and everyone that helped, and the guys at UAS for helping out.

Are these difficult to remove? Where abouts are they on RBs? Honestly i've never even looked at one (knowingly). edit: LOL, never mind. Found it after looking really hard

Cheers Cubes. Just found this: on this site. Couldn't have described it better myself. I guess it would apply to Skylines too. Looks like i have to hunt down a second hand CAS.

Installed a new Walbro pump tonight, which didn't fix the problem. Tomorrow i'm going to try a new batch of fuel and if that fails, i guess i have to start looking electrical. Suggestions welcome

Got most of the fuel out of the tank and it looks fine. Fuel filter is about 5000km max old (changed it myself) and is fine. I can blow through it. Currently thinking the fuel pump's had it after 13 years of service, my recent upgrade to >200rwkW and thrashing at eastern creek drags. Bosch 040 is going in very soon. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

Hey guys, Recently the Skyline has been playing up a bit. The story goes - filled up BP Ultimate at the servo i don't usually fill go to. That afternoon, driving home the engine starts popping, farting and in general being very grumpy, and eventually dies. Try to turn it back on and it fires but only gets up to about 500rpm and dies again. Waited a bit, about 30 minutes, it started perfectly and i drove it home 10km without a hiccup. Now a few days later i'm trying to get it to repeat the problem, drive 20km to a mate's place without a single bit of hesitation anywhere. Pick up mate, showboat through 1st and 2nd, keep driving up the road and it starts struggling and popping all over the place, eventually dies again. Managed to fire it up 10min later and took my mate home. From here, things got interesting (this was last night). After waiting 30min i was able to drive for about 5 minutes before it spat the dummy and turned off. From there it was a game of waiting, babying along with hazards on and basically trying to get it home. It took about 3 hours to get it from eastwood to baulkham hills, including probably about 20 attempts to start it (glad i spent up on the battery....). Today i checked the fuel pump, everything seems fine. It drove OK when i went up to a highway to give it a fang, but then on easy driving on the way back it crapped itself. It seems like it will only do it after the car is 'warm', or after about 20-30min of driving. That is if it hasn't been turned on for an extended period. If it's already warm (just been driven) it's prone to doing it at any time. I drained the fuel too and it doesn't seem like a bad batch from looking at it. Cliff notes: fuel pump fine, fuel filter fine, car hesitates and turns off constantly when warm. Any ideas are appreciated guys!

ECR33 Type M Blitz LM FMIC Turbo-back 3" exhaust Splitfire DIS coils APEX'i Power Intake Pod filter UAS cold air box GReddy Profec B-Spec II GReddy e-Manage Ultimate Tomei exhaust cam gear Walbro fuel pump 0.85bar 205kW http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/after.jpg