govich

Old thread, but for any guys still buying these, the plenum is probably not the best place to get the pressure feed from, and it evidently makes the lines a bit too long. I just installed this unit into my car and the solenoid looks like this: The feed comes from the intercooler return pipe so the engine will be seeing exactly the set boost, accounting for the pressure drop across the intercooler. The only possible problem i can think of is a leak between the turbo and IC, in which case the only warning sign would be the sound of stuff breaking. I'm not pushing the stock turbo hard though, i'd probably recommend getting the feed from just after the compressor if you're going to run it on the edge..

Look for a DIS6-02 at wreckers. DIS6-01B from RB20/26 will not work. And Nissan want just under $1k for a new one.

I've got a DIS6-01B ignitor here that will fit RB20/26 but will NOT work on a Series 1 RB25DET (they take the smaller DIS6-02). I'm in Sydney, PM if interested. Cheers

You're going to have more lag simply because the compressor has to fill a larger volume before things get going. To get rid of this you could shorten intake piping elsewhere. I have a Blitz LM cooler and it isn't too bad..

Take a stock skyline to an auto salon-spec dyno and you should see around that much. The only part you might want is a monster tacho on the a-pillar, so you can cross check revs with the stock tacho, and pull the marias on george st.

A turbocharger is made up of a compressor and turbine linked by a shaft. I'd be careful here as someone who has half a technical clue could bust you on it - compressors for refrigeration don't use turbines to power them.

Coils or stock ecu retarding the timing. ...

It means you have the computer-controlled LSD, as seen in the rear of an R33 GTR Vspec. It's arguable whether it's better than the normal LSD or not, but i wouldn't think Nissan would waste engineering dollars..

It's far easier to control your fuel consumption with your right foot. You'll have to do it with less boost too. 750.

Deleted? I was just about to type a nice reply Oh well...

Now you've just made yourself look silly by claiming to have been well educated and misspelling anything remotely technical. I don't know if you actually read that site either. Slowing the charge through the intercooler may not be as bad as you think, to a point. If the air hurries through, it's not going to be cooled at all. By the way, you're assuming that the air takes the full '5 metres' to accelerate to 4m/s. I'd be interested to see why your other air accelerates faster.

I'm registering my agreement with mad082. You're generalising too much, it depends more on design than size to a point.

Ignition related (coils) or timing retard from the stock computer. See search button. 11 AFR is rich and safe.

Hey guys, Dad took my car to work this morning and managed to put some long, deep, obvious scratches on the front left of it which i am NOT happy with at all, when trying to keep everything in perfect condition. Managed to do it across the colours of the two tone paint also which might just bump repair price up a bit. I'm looking for recommendations for places to get these repaired and repainted in Sydney. Thanks guys. Pic (note the top ones he did over with touchup paint - still very visible so that's not really a satisfactory result - i'd want proper repairs)

Bah at that. Chalk one back up for the 33s.

HKS 3037?

Bah younguns /walks off to study for uni exams Good luck

Only 1 shot of the R8???? This car is the new hotness!! http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/r81.jpg http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/r82.jpg

My gauge behaves the same as you have described, and i haven't had any problems at all with the engine - doesn't use any oil. And i also get black smoke at high revs due to overfuelling from the stock ECU. In short - i wouldn't think it's anything to worry about.

The factory redline is set at 7000rpm for a reason. I don't recommend taking it to 8000rpm often without an engine built for it, though pictures of rods through blocks etc are fun to look at.

Serb So i guess the boss loses then.

There have been a few threads on this. Mine did about 14L/100km in the winter on the stock ECU (with intercooler, exhaust, pod), now does around 12.5-13L/100km and the only reason i can give is hotter weather. Stockers should do 10-11L/100km from factory specs. A Power FC or other aftermarket computer helps lower fuel consumption on modified cars back to near stock when cruising. There's a thread here for what to look out for when buying a Skyline.

Needs more Skylines.

That depends on whether you think high 15 second quarters are slow or not, when most R33 turbo guys are at least 2 seconds faster. To the poster, i'd go for a small light car in your situation. Civic VTiR or some such. It will be awesome fun to throw around and you can get into big heavy powerful Skylines later...

The V-Cam system is probably your best bet (though it is really really expensive). Normal cams with a set duration/lift are always a compromise (ie. you give up bottom end torque for top end torque or vice versa). It's the reason variable cam timing systems were developed, like the HKS system.