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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127647

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has the EBC part number for pads for a ECR33? I've got DP21200 for the fronts and DP2528 for the backs here. I'm pretty sure the fronts are right but just wondering if anyone has bought these and can confirm the part number for the rears? Cheers

Are you guys serious? 304 grade stainless as an example is pretty easy to weld, crack resistant, low in thermal conductivity and long-term corrosion resistant. The only potential worry is the high coefficient of thermal expansion but that can be accounted for. In theory, and with a proper design, stainless should be one of the top candidates. If using mild steel you'd want to coat it with chrome or some sort of ceramic to help with corrosion resistance.

It just depends on where the pipe is run. Some cars don't have the return pipe going over the top of the cooler and the snorkel therefore still fits..

I guess this is why Australia is in so much debt. By 'afford a house' i mean things like maintenance and future repayments (security?), not necessarily having the whole amount sitting in your bank account. Investment properties are fine, but it's a lot of money to be playing with and a big risk for a teenager.

Or drown in interest on the account for the next 10+ years and waste your youth. My advice is to buy a house when you can afford a house. Enjoy yourself until it's time to settle down (but don't do anything stupid..). Money isn't everything. R34 sounds good. Don't waste money on trying to get the NA to perform though.

Find a manifold made from stainless steel, with individual runners and a wastegate flange angled into the exhaust flow. Make sure the runners are seperate where they bolt into the block to allow them to expand. Proper design > brand.

Needs vtec stickers.

Thanks for this guys. I did it today with 16000mcd LEDs (3.2v/20mA/1W) and 560ohm resistors (fit smugly) from dick smith and it's perfect for me.

If the boost gauge reads over 7 that corresponds to more than 14psi, which is bad if you're on the stock turbo, and also explains your power loss (ECU cutting power). 75% throttle = not as much air flow (as WOT) and no timing retard from the computer. Put it on a dyno to see exactly what's wrong.

Should be at least a second quicker than that on >200rwkw... More practice

Wow.... While you're at it, did you know an air filter and intake piping only serve to muffle your flutterz? Best to remove them, then your flutter will be really really loud. (and sick)

Not everything made by Sony sounds bad and not everything made by Fusion sounds good. Do you work for Fusion? 'Cause if you don't, you should - they'd make a killing. The Jaycar 2x150 amps are good for bridging and running a sub on the cheap.

1.4bar sounds like a lot of boost for 250awkw, though makes sense if it is really a conservative, safe tune with zero knock. You have to remember that stock cars with 250awkw probably don't have long to live - yours will be fine for a long time as it's been built properly with all supporting mods covered and strong internals.

Yeah, the fact that it isn't blowing black smoke or running like a dog eliminates the intake, leaving either the actual compressor itself, or the exhaust side. Either way i'd say the problem's in the actual turbo itself (including internal wastegate).

In that case, it's not an intake leak. I'd be looking at the turbine (exhaust) side of the turbo - the wastegate or boost controller sound like potential culprits.

If it does start running like a pig and blowing black smoke etc, then it's between the compressor and throttle for sure - the AFM reads a certain airflow value, the computer dumps the required amount of fuel in, but the air is leaking out somewhere so the AFR is way out.. Otherwise, if it's well behaved, the wastegate opening prematurely (or just not functioning..) is my guess, though then i'm not as sure since it's never happened to me - the leak has.

Rebuild it yourself with proper parts.

OK. Is this an accurate description of the problem?: Engine idles fine. Engage a gear, try to accelerate and it works fine with light throttle opening (boost gauge reads <0). When you press the gas pedal a bit more, the boost gauge snaps to 0 and you hear a constant pshhhh, the car stops accelerating and engine starts running like a dog, blowing black smoke etc. If so, i can tell you with 100% certainty there's a leak.

Does your boost gauge read a vacuum at idle? If it won't go past 0 when you try to accelerate, then the problem is a leak between the compressor and throttle.

Thanks guys, i can't seem to replicate the problem now, it purrs along just as before. I'll have to have a proper look around in the morning - i was in a rush to get to uni this morning so didn't really look at anything thoroughly. It definitely isn't making any noise now though, hot or cold start. edit: Oil level is fine, i'm thinking a lifter or two wasn't getting oil for whatever reason. I'll get more worried if it does it again..

Hey guys, I started the car up this morning and it just idled roughly for a second or two and then this noise developed. It's a sort of 'knocking' noise, but im sure actual knock doesn't sound like this when revved. Sounds expensive, so i'd just like to see if anyone has ideas. I took 2 videos; one of the car idling and then in the second one i open the throttle a bit. Note the car still has good power (revs cleanly), and the fan spins cleanly (without hitting anything). I've had suggestions including belts and bearings. Any help appreciated guys. idling revving

The car's getting back at you for putting that awfully big wing on it. Crunching = synchros are gone. On a cold morning, the gearbox isn't lubricated at all so don't expect it to let you into 2nd. Don't expect it to get better either. Make it a priority if you don't like the idea of a 4 speed transmission.

Just as a note, something you might like to think about, intercoolers (aftercoolers) are a restriction. There are coolers which pose little to no restriction and you feel this as more responsive, but because the air just flows straight through them quickly, you don't get much actual cooling. Then you have others which are a big restriction (by design) and slow the air down a lot through them, and the increased time in the cooler means that the air actually drops in temperature far more, but the engine is less responsive because of the restriction. Ideally you want to match the cooler to what you want from the engine. Not necessarily saying the ARC cooler isn't cooling air as much, just a thought.

Use premium and nothing else. Any BOV that makes obvious loud whoosh/pshht 'sounds' is illegal for the road.