govich

If it won't go past 0 then you have a leak somewhere. It won't go past 0 because 0 (on the gauge) is atmospheric pressure and when the compressor tries to pressurise the air past atmospheric, the pressure difference just forces the air out through wherever your leak is. Coil packs will not restrict boost like that. Neither will the AFM. Start up the engine, get under the bonnet, look and listen carefully for hissing and if you can't hear it at idle, open up the throttle a few times and it should become obvious.

Sold.

Yeah, might be an idea to reset the ECU with the SAFC disconnected and see how it goes.

You got a dog for your passenger seat? Something about weight distribution? Nice power..

Have you read the article?

MOTOR pulled off a 5.35 in a new commodore SS V last month, so i'd be surprised if they couldn't break a GTS or Clubsport into the 4.something range. And pull off a 12 second quarter. Quite impressive really, i'm itching to see how they go.

It doesn't. Short stroke motors generally rev harder. A shorter stroke means a lower piston speed for the same engine speed so basically you can spin it faster without breaking stuff.

You get what you pay for, IMO. If you're not too much of an audiophile, those should be fine.

hehe relax i'm not being serious..

But HICAS has engines for turning the wheels?

Put in 4 litres, wait for it to drain, check the level and add more if needed. Around 4.5L is usually enough.

Do not buy this car.

Is "stock bottom end" a good thing?

Seems a bit high. That sounds like mine when cold, but it drops a fair bit when warm, especially while cruising along. What oil are you using?

No they aren't. SS, SS V and Calais V get the 270kW/530Nm V8. What you guys might be interested in are MOTOR's figures for the 1690kg manual SS V. 5.35 0-100 and 13.63 quarter mile on a damp track. These things aren't hanging around.

Ah, mine's not in yet, i'm waiting for new Splitfires to arrive to fix my misfire before i get the SAFC2 tuned. 12L/100km sounds like something i'd be very happy with . But yeah, mates have told me i get plenty of black smoke under hard acceleration. I'll let you know when it's done.

To start off, make adapters for your new speakers out of mdf, and make sure they're mounted and secured properly. I personally prefer wood over plastic as i like to think it's more sturdy. This shouldn't be hard as long if you don't pick overly thick mdf. Just make sure the speaker clears the window and door trim fine before putting everything together. Then you'd probably want to use some sound deadener in the doors to get rid of rattles. Not much more to it really. Ideally you want the speakers in some sort of enclosure but that's hard to do while trying to keep everything looking stock.

Do you have any figures? I just bought one of these..i'm waiting to get it installed now and i'm curious. As for the original post, get used to it . You can try cleaning stuff, but have a look in the other fuel consumption threads, they're all similar. My R33 returns 14.5L/100km around town with the stock ecu at best. And don't be surprised about 2500-3000rpm, that's how they're geared. For fuel economy you should focus on keeping your boost gauge as low as possible, not so much engine speed. Not applying as much throttle in a lower gear in general will save fuel compared to using lots of throttle in a higher gear. If you can't afford the fuel, buy a <2l economy car.

In the dry it probably doesn't spin hard enough/long enough to set off the fail mode.

OK. With the stock blow-off valve on, my car does not flutter. At all. Ever. With the aftermarket atmospheric-vent blow-off valve, the car flutters on trailing throttle or after closing the throttle after light openings. I have visually confirmed this sound as coming from the blow-off valve bouncing open and closed. If the throttle is closed after being open wide, the blow-off valve dumps completely and there is no flutter. At all. Just whoosh. How is the noise (in my car) not coming from the blow-off valve bouncing open and closed? I'm not posting about this again .

My blow-off valve bounces between open and closed (this is visually obvious), air comes out of it and this makes a fluttering noise. There is no other audible fluttering or whooshing associated with the air, from the pod or otherwise.

Maybe it went into the ALSD fail (self-protection?) mode as discussed in the thread you linked. He did note that it wouldn't lock until he restarted the car.

What i'm saying is it's not necessarily air running back through the intake (if you have a BOV). Primordial in your case it'll just be air rushing back and doing funny things . You can check for yourself though, just pop the bonnet, rev your car and see if you can feel air coming out of the filter and match it to whatever noise you hear.

Sure? I wanted to confirm what was making this noise the other day and watched my blow-off valve open and close repeatedly after opening the throttle small amounts and then closing it. The flutter was coming from the blow-off valve, and it makes sense from an engineering point of view. Lowering the spring tension would allow the valve to open completely at lower pressures and not 'bounce' between open and closed. That might fix it for you.

This cruise will be awesome and fuel is not expensive. That is all.