drgnball34

i have R34 GCG highflow brand new still in wrapping. Comes with set of new turbo gaskets, bolts and bradied oil and water lines aswell. $2000

Im going ahead with a set of wiseco 20thou. Very cheap for $1100 i'd say. Since the rods are GTR, a fresh set of rod bolts and big end bearings and it should all be reliable enough to handle 350-400rwkw? 1.2mm gasket gives standard compression using standard pistion size and 1.6mm gives 8.6. So using 20thou and 1.6mm should give 8.7 -8.8 comp? and I also have NOS..will this effect engine realiality provided power is keep within the limits?.....I will be using ARP head studs to hold the head down.. if that is even needed.

Using an R34 GTT with cams and all other supporting mods as an example. About to buy this turbo but dont know which a/r size to get? I will be getting forgies so mite as well go for max power. But catch 22....i want response as its a street racer. What is the difference in max power and response from both a/r sizes? Weighting up weather i should sacrifce response for more top end power and vice versa. If power difference is margainal then going with better response makes more sense. Nengun doesn't supply the kit with the bigger a/r. Any1 know if there is such a thing and where do i get it from?

1. the nengun website has HKS GT2835 kit but only in 0.68 A/R. My power goal is 300rwkw. Would this smaller a/r make that power? But the response would be awesome thou! It seems abit small for that power level and mite choke it huh? I have tomei poncams which may help get me there. 2. i have a set of nismo 480cc drop in injectors and tomei fuel pump. If i use a fpr would the injectors have enough flow for that power or max out? 3. Any idea as to what my RB25DET's engine displacement would be if i get 40thou pistons? What kinda extra power would i be geting? Probally very minor i assume. 4. Since the GTT has standard GTR rods, couple this with forgerd pistons, what sort of power levels can the bottom end handle? RELIABLE mind you Since bigger piston rasies compression, what thickness gasket would be ideal for around 8.7:1 comp? thinking 1.6mm

thinking of geting 40thou pistons since my RB25DET engine is stuffed. Does any1 know what compression my engine would be using standard gasket? What thickness gasket would be ideal? I have GCG highflow with cams and should max at at around 18-19psi. I want the best engine response possible.

how much NOS can the rebuilt engine handle with a stock head?

thanks for all the input guys. Damage was done on piston no. 1. He is a qualified mechanic and has prevously worked at a high performance workshop. He has has had many cars thats he has worked on enter numerous car shows. I dont know why, but he must of cranked it over many times as the valve looks like its been chewed up and spit out! He must of had the timing belt on when he cranked it over otherwise there would be more then one damaged valve. But i was not there to see. How could the valve seat dislodge itself in the 1st place? Cause that is also what he has stated. Hard to tell coz there was pretty much no valve seat left! Other then the broken valve, would anything else in the vavle train need to be replaced? Someone mentioned retainer? Also i have heard that the rods are GTR. Would the force and stress have damaged or weaken it in any way? My friend said that i may need the rod resize which also means a balance bottom end! ouch! I will take this as an oppurtunity to rebulid my engine with forgies etc. Since the block needs to be honed, i will get oversized forgies (40 thou), new big end bearings and rod and main bearings. Along with a thicker gasket ( 1.2mm ), heavy duty valve springs and head studs. Any other suggestions and advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated. i have a GCG highflow and NOS kit both still in their boxes along with all other supporting mods. As the GCG maxs out at around 260rwkw ( what a shame coz the engine package can handle way more! ) ive decided to make the most out of my NOS. Love it or hate it boys!!! Any idea as to the max jet size i can run providing the clutch is up tio scratch?

dont do backyard jobs

Please take the time to read as it is long but very important As the mechanic proceded to bolt down the 2nd cam he heard a cracking sound. He took it off and checked to see if the cam had snaped but turned out it didnt. He placed it back down and continued bolting everything back 2getha. He then cranked the engine over to check if everything was ok but could hear snaping sounds. Thinking that he bent a valve he proceed to do a compression test. Thats when he heard a crunch sound. We took the head off and i nearly fainted. A valve snaped and with the cranking of the engine, must of dislodged itself and fell into the cylinder bore. As a result smashed head, damage piston and burred cylinder bore. He can not explain what he did wrong but suggested that the head had a crack valve seat prior to the cams getting bolted on. And this has not allowed the valve to close properly thus not only hitting the pistion, but on a angle which contributed to the valve snapping. But if it was cracked in the 1st place, then i would have suffered from miss fire in that cylinder. Not to mention under heavy engine load and with the constant high rpm, that valve would of crack long ago. My car has only 50k kms of which ive only put 5k kms and was runnig perfect when i gave it to him. He suggested that the cause of a crack valve seat was because i was runing too lean. But its only ever been boosted (AVCR) the last 2k kms and been below factory boost cut. My theory is that before placing down the cam, he either set the timing wrong or placed in dwn the wrng way. When he bolted it down the, the force would of pushed the valve onto the piston and snaped it. Could any tech people please give insight and feedback to what has actually happened to my engine? He is trying to shift the blame on me and wiggle himself out of any responsability. This has caused a great deal of stress upon myself.

yeah i heard big $$$ when its coupled with oversized valves. But i beta leave that to dream time mate! So even with a pair of cams, not that great a deal of power for the $$ hey?

My head is currently off to install a thicker head gasket. I will take this as an oppurtunity to do some head work. As of now I have a set of tomei cams and GcG highflow coupled with the supporting mods. Im interested in getting some more flow through the heads. A port and polish seems like the best if not, the only way to go. I have even heard some people say to only do a port and not a polish cause it messes with the atomises of the fuel? either way can all you tech boys guide me through on the best option to go? And also factoring in that budget is a big issues I live in perth and have not heard of any good places that can do the job. Can any1 suggest one for me? Any idea as too how much it would cost?

tomei poncmas 260

my R34 Neo head is off to make way for thicker head gasket. I might as well take the oppurtunity to do some head work. Any good places here that can do a port and polish? Any idea as to how much the job will cost? I have tomei cams so the combination of them together i heard would give good power.

I read an interesting article about valve " bounching " or " floating ". It included a dyno sheet of a car that suffered from it. The power levels drop and shot back up like a yoyo. My question is if my R34 GTT was producing around the 300rwkw, would the standard valve springs be able to handle it? Having all that power is one thing, but getting to it smooth and constant is another

tomei pump, nismo 480cc injectors, sard regulator, tomei cams, gcg highflow, power fc etc...

Anyone else gotten over the apparent " 250rwkw " limit using standard compression and pump fuel? My car is geting dyno tuned next week and i will be really dissapointed if the limiting factor is compression.

Does anyone know if the R34 afm wiring is same as R33? I assume it is but which series R33?

Okies all dyno read diff..And many factors contribute to a final dyno reading i guess. But a highflowed R34 will produce more then a R33 highflow right? surley the bigger rear would make a difference to the reading after taking into account diff tune and dyno machines?

Just sent my R34 GTT turbo off to GCG to get highflowed. Being doing abit of research and the max power is around 270rwkw from a R33 with cams. Mine also has cams ( tomei Poncams 260 ) and since the R34 has slightly larger exhaust housing... Is it safe to say that i should net 280rwkw with all the supporting fruit and a good tune? Now that would be pretty dam impressive from a highflow!

All i need is the harness to the power fc? Can i just buy that separately? How much and where?

12mths ago when i brought my R34 GTT, i installed a avc-r thinking i wasnt going to much more mods down the track. Boy was i wrong! Now that i got a whole heap of gear for my car, i needed a power fc the run the show. thinking back, i should of just tossed the avc-r idea and saved abit extra and got the boost kit together with the power fc. I should be able to run both of them independently? The only real disadvantage is not being able to control boost from the handheld? Other then that i should be fine?

im running power fc. I surpose a stronger spark wouldnt hurt. the splitfire and msd unit i can get for the same price. It it relli comes down to what is better suited for my application. Any ideas as to if it is a big job in geting the msd system hooked up? I read a brief description and it sounds quite abit. If so then it might ended up costing alot more the splitfires...which i can install myself!

I have R34 GTT. ATM in workshop and hoping for 270rwkw and 300rwkw with NOS. Any thoughts and ideas on the MSD unit? Is it worth while or should i get splitfires instead. I should really ask if any of them is neccasary at these power levels?

Im in the process of getting my R34 GTT highflowed ( GCG). Since the exhaust housing is larger then the R33, I should be able to gain 30 odd extra rwkw . I have a 38mm tial wastegate laying around which i was going to use on a different setup but changed my mind. Im thinking of welding the internal shut and change to the external instead. Im assuming that this will allow for better boost control and maybe even push the turbo to around 280-290 rwkw. Could i still use the standard exhaust manifold and get it modifyied with the wastegate or get a custom one fabricated up? What cost are involed?

I understand that an R33 turbo highflowed with VG30 rear housing gives alittle bit extra power rating then the standard 450hp. But will an R34 also with a VG30 rear housing produce even more? Or would it bascially be the same as the R33 with the VG30? And roughly how much more power does it give and does it produce any more noticable lag?