maximajim

Has anyone experienced a noisy vtc gear? I am getting a ticking/clacking noise from the front of the engine and I have narrowed it down to the vtc gear. I'm able to turn off/on vtc with my standalone and with the vtc ON the noise goes away. Quite opposite of the normal vtc failures in other nissan engines. I've read in VG30's the vtc spring is the culprit but mine seemed okay to me (flying cover screws). Has anyone replaced the spring and resolved the problem? thanks.

I did check for clearance while cranked the engine over by hand. There seemed to be enough clearance then. Now I know while the engine running the clearances will change. This is a design fault, it's not like it's a custom piston. Anyway I sent supertech pictures and they agree they need a look over. " from Martin Tagliavini <[email protected]> to Leon A <@gmail.com> date Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 1:20 PM subject RE: supertechperformance.com - Contact Form hide details 1:20 PM (17 hours ago) Thank you Leon From the photos seems that the cut needs to be deeper. I will ask our factory to check on the OE sample we have and see what is going on. Martin T. Supertech Inc. 3580 Charter Park Dr, San Jose CA 95136 Ph. 408-448-2001 / Fx 408-448-3700 www.supertechperformance.com"

I've already blocked the squirters as I've already been without their aid for 8 months now with no problems. I had my engine previously balanced and didn't want to touch the pistons again. A spacer may put the squirter bolt head in the path of the counter weight. Though you maybe be able to remove the aligment pin and adjust the squirter for more clearance. Which is what happened to the #6 squirter unintentionally and it happens to be the only one untouched. Here is the pic of one of the pistons before installation:

I installed these last year in my RB25 and I recently found they have lopped off my oil squirters. Supertech says this is the first time they've heard of the issue. However you are never going to notice a problem unless you check your high RPM oil pressure or do a very close examination of your oil during an oil change. Here they are The only one that wasn't damaged was #6 which I had broken the guide pin during installation and then had to eye ball alignment.

What's shot peening going to do when the rods are bending but not breaking?

Does anyone know which sort of oil the air conditioner compressor takes? There's two types of PAG oil nissan uses. Anyone know which type the RB25 uses?

Very impressive! Anyone know what size the hard fuel lines are on the r33 gtr?

http://www.rbforums.org/5.html download the fsm

Since when does the pfc retard knock? There are no settings for knock retard in fc edit.

I've only got 1200km on a fresh rebuild and I popped the oem HG. Long story short it seems the fpr vacuum line was disconnected and during a run at the drag strip the excess pressure blew threw the HG and also popped the front freeze plug on the head. The forged pistons look to be in decent shape, there is no sign of detonation/melting. I've reused a greddy timing belt in the past with success but I'm wondering if anyone has reused a standard timing belt with low km's. I've got fresh idler and tensioner pulleys with new studs. The belt looks to be in great shape.

On what the tps? The s1 also has the extra connector on the tps body, it just goes to the tcu if you have an auto.

But why and how does the ecu know there is a difference?

I have a 50mm synapse with a 6boost manifold and turbonetics 62-1. At 10psi it worked quite well, no spikes, no creeps. When I tried to up the boost it didn't respond very well. There are so many configurations it takes time to get it just right. I ended up using my standalone to control boost to 19psi but I may go back to using just the W/G. Make sure you get the complete kit with flanges and clamps, I made the mistake of buying just the w/g and found suitable clamps to be very expensive.

You guys are such comedians But it is a serious question. Aside from upgrading the Fuel pump, injectors and FPR you have the fuel lines. At some point they will have to be upgraded to larger lines. Searching you'd find a lot of talk of injectors and fuel pumps but not so much about upgrading the lines.

Is that your cas in the pic? In that pic all that needs to be done is removing the 3 gold screws holding the body in and then pressing the shaft out from the back. The two screws on the shaft don't need to be removed.

That's the mitsu cas correct? It has the rubber cover on the front. Remove the cover and that is the end of the shaft. I do seem to remember when I removed the two small screws on the shaft itself I was able to remove that portion of the shaft. I think you may be able to remove the remaining 3 screws holding the body to the case and press the shaft out from the back. Okay I just checked the original cas I dissassembled and as I said you just need to remove three screws and press it out from the back.

Yes, why?

Forget the pump/injectors, how much can the distribution system handle? I would imagine there would be a proportional limit has to how much it can flow vs max HP. Anyone foolish enough to try?

I have a few diagrams of R32-R34 RB engines over here http://www.rbforums.org/3.html When you go to a diagram just place the mouse pointer over the part code and a box will pop up with a nissan part number.

Okay..... anywhere in OZ I can call to place an order?

Have the engine apart and I would like to replace the idler bolt. I'm in the states and while I can find a tensioner stud replacement I can't find the a bolt alternative. Any ideas where in I can find an OEM replacement online? Thanks

How do you like the vipec compared to the aem ems? (assuming this the American aem ems)

The kit and flush solution was about $15 from pepboys. I would suggest trying again to remove that block bolt, I've found that a lot of gunk accumulates back there and the only way to remove it is to remove the bolt & flush.

Well I ended up getting a Prestone back flush kit and radiator cleaning solution and flushed quite a bit of gunk out of the system. I have flushed the engine before installing but I guess over time more loosened and was clogging the coolant system. I also used a bottle of redline water wetter and I can happily say at idle I can get temps down to 80c with just one fan. Thanks for all input!

How long did it take to return to normal temps? No chance of running a clutch type as there's no space. The fans are good, I have one coming on at 70c and the other at 85c. But seeing your numbers I'm no long concerned, thanks.