maximajim

Greetings, Is it possible to set base timing with the use of a Power FC? A fool that I am, I left the lower timing belt cover off, and I can't install with the crank pulley in the way. Thank you.

Yep she sounds great. Throttle is much more responsive. However I still have the cold start problem. I'm sure I'll get that worked out soon.

I forgot I had an issue with tps voltage. Since I'm using a q45 tps I had to splice wiring. Turns out I wired the power the wrong way- so Idle was reading 4.5v, WOT at .6v. I rewired it and adjusted to .6v at idle. Guess what? That fixed it the rev limit problem. Strange..

Continuation of my previous "rb25 refuses to start thread" What I know: 1) old fuel has no effect 2) must hold throttle open to start only when cold, may take 4-5 attempts. When hot engine starts fine. 3) still getting codes for AFM and TPS, even after reset 4) AFM voltage reads fine at off,idle and reving- there are no spikes/dips 5) AFM wire was lengthend to adjust to 240sx bay. Shielded cabling was not used. 6) At part throttle will rev to redline. I do not understand what is happening. I thought if the AFM was at fault the engine would not rev past 2000 rpm at all, but it does. I measured voltage at the ECU harness while going WOT. Voltage did not reach 5V at any time. The rpm would build to ~2500 rpm fall back to 1000 rpm and back to 2500 rpm, etc. Would unshielded wiring cause this? I'm out of ideas..

Phase2 and Touge Factory for RB25 specific.

Here is what I'm looking at : LT8 with laptop adapter, software, 3 bar map sensor ~1550 AUD +- PFC with Q45 MAF,FC Datalogit ~1850 AUD +- I have a set a dash guages so the commander is not worth it (vs. fc datalogit) My primary concern is laptop datalogging and ease of making adjustments. Ability to plug and play is a non-issue because finding a shop to tune either will be difficult and time consuming anyway. So pretty much it boils down to a features/prices comparision. Justified: If I get a lt8 it will be from AUS, it costs less.

I am planning to buy the lt8 as they can be bought for a decent price here in the states. Seems to be a better than the pfc. No need to upgrade MAF, no need for datalogit. Any users of this system here?

Ding! Ding! Datto pretty much got it! Turns out the AFM voltage is off. It reads -0.26V instead of +0.30V. While cranking it reads -1v. So I pulled the AFM plug and it starts. Now I need to figure out why it reads negative..

Hello Datto, Thank you for your reply. The ECU and AFM are factory items. I have performed the ECU diagnostic and it shows codes for AFM and TPS. I find it interesting your car didn't start with the Z32 AFM. I always thought Any nissan could start without an AFM plugged in, maybe a false signal would cause a no start?. I will look into that. The pump is a Walbro 255lph, I've tried to start the car multiple times in succession so I don't think priming is the problem. I will drain the tank and replenish with new fuel. Thanks

Hello, I have an RB25DET here that refuses to start. I just finished installing the engine. Before engine removal, it ran perfectly. What I know: 1) Timing was set correctly 2) It will run on Starting fluid for ~5seconds 3) Cas does work, I rotated it and I can hear injectors clicking 4) As stated above injectors work, Also pulled first 3 coil packs, they all work 5) Fuel pump is working, I can hear it prime and I also pulled the fuel line to make sure fuel is coming out 6) I have a nismo FPR, at this point fuel pressure is unknown 7) Getting error codes for TPS and AFM 8) the Fuel in the Tank is ~1 1/2yrs old When I go back to troubleshooting, first two things I will check is fuel pressure and compression. The two main things I'm concerned about are the TPS and AFM. Per JPNZ R33 FSM, there is no reference to the TPS or AFM for starting. However per Z32 Nissan FSM, a AFM will cause a hard start/no start. Anyone have experience with a bad AFM causing a no start? I am focusing on fuel pressure but I have a feeling it's fine. Thank you.

Nope don't have a 96 tps, however I do have a 96 Q45 FSM. The TPS it shows is similar to the SII TPS, they may have the same P/N. But getting back to the issue, why does my TPS read ~5V at idle with the SII tps or the Q45 TPS? When at WOT the voltage drops to ~.5V. Seems it's reversed.

It's not that simple. Here a pic so you can see the difference. http://rb25det.org/rb/tps.jpg left SII, right Q45 (unknown year, pre 1995) the USDM 1996 Q45 TPS looks like it wil plug into SII harness but I don't know if it will bolt to the greddy IM.

Hi there, I'm trying to use the Infiniti q45 TB- Throttle Body, TPS- Throttle position sensor.

Not good, another person on a US forum has the same problem with their SII. We both have ~5v at idle. How can this be?

Hello, I'm trying to setup a Q45 TB with my SII RB25. I know in most Nissan the TPS will read 0.5v at idle. however my q45 TPS and r33 TPS is showing ~5v at idle. Is this normal? I am getting code 43 which is TPS system. I have verified the wiring is correct. Are my voltages normal?

SK is it possible for you to measure the length of the RB26 studs?. I would like to know if the set I ordered for my RB25 is the right length. It's impossible to tell if the threaded portion for the nut is at right height. Any help is appreciated.

JMS made 946N-m with their ecr33

If you guys have any more service manual requests head over to www.rb25det.org and posts your request in the forums.

Check for continutity between the ecu harness pin 113 and solenoid harness LG/R wire. That is the ECU ground wire. The other wire is the power source for other sensors too so it's unlikely it's the problem.

Gi your in luck http://www.rb25det.org/rb/vacuum1.jpg http://www.rb25det.org/rb/vacuum2.jpg calaistur: Sorry no, no component t/s for the VTC But since it is a soleniod just pull the plug and check the solenoid terminals for continuity.

anyone please help? I have a refreshed engine waiting to be broken in.. I can hear it wailing...

Here's a pic if you don't know what this Yankee is talking about :aroused: The red arrow. The green arrow is pointing to the turbo oil feed. If i'm correct that is a 12x1.25mm thread?

As the title says. What have you guys done to block it or route it? Finding metric bolts/fittings is difficult here in nyc

Thanks Turbo!

I've rebuilt my rb25 bottom end with fresh bearings and forged pistons. Head is standard. I'm not sure how to break it in. What type of oil do I use? Any advice is appreciated.