scandyflick

oooh. so it was you who was going back and forward in the white 34. yeah... we were all sitting in the outdoor area.

is that craig i see being domestic with the broom? thats what your future wife is for.

pfft. odd. were trendsetters.

we dont have roadys in sa. if youre buying a car from interstate, it will have to go through regency though.

i shouldve introduced myself. i was the opinionated dude swearing a lot who f**ked off for work. ha.

spotted james in the 'R on main north, city bound nearish the shopping city at gepps. wouldve waved, but it took me a f**kin long while to figure out it was you. lol.

on the topic of cars we miss; ... its probably dead now. havent heard anything about it in ages...

i havent been in ages... and i kinda want a pie... reckon ill come by.

diy. best way to do it. also an easy way to get to know your car. for bigger stuff like clutch swaps (shit of a thing to do on your driveway), dyno runs (obviously), ecu tuning, leak down and compression tests, take it to a work shop. for the basic stuff like fitting suspension and suspension components, brake upgrades, basic servicing (fluids, plugs, filters) all you need is a basic tool kit and some basic mechanical reasoning. skylines are pretty simple things to figure out once you have a good look underneath them. if youre physically able to work on your car, do it, its a complete waste of money (and it takes some of the enjoyment of ownership out of the equation) to pay someone else to do shit unless you simply *cant*. even some bigger things like turbo swaps are easily done by yourself in the garage with basic tools and lateral thinking. as for mods and legality. f**k it. nothings legal, may aswell run the gauntlet, just dont go fitting giant chrome wheels and 'check me the f**k out!' paintjobs, avoid hotspots, dont hang around at meets when the cops show up (i did that an ns cruise, my first and only defect) and youll be fine. before i got my 200, i had a celsior that was absolutely begging for it, didnt drive like a tit, avoided the bay on friday and saturday nights, and all was good. getting a car ready to pass through regency is more of an inconvenience than anything, and being able to drive the car you want looking and driving the way you want it to the rest of the time is pretty satisfying. for exhaust and intake (including fitting an intercooler and fabbing pipework for it), give andrew at am performance a bell (0401865373), hes a bit out of your way, but hes a serious f**kin champ, his work is nothing short of incredible, and hes not happy with anything he makes until you are. for everything else, nengun, rhd japan, and trusty japanese import spares, kojis a crack up, and they always have a bunch of awesome shit in stock. most important rule for modding a car though, buy smart. ive made the mistake a few times early on of buying cheaper gear thinking itll save me money without putting any real thought it. since then, everything has been researched, and ive only bought quality gear. poor man pays twice, very true when it comes to performance car parts. actual, scratch that, thats the second most important thing, the first most is HAVE FUN! no point owning a performance car if youre not gonna have fun with it.

pre-vn... and without all the associated vn fail... ... but yeah, pretty much.

audis gayer than 10 dudes blowing 20 dudes. now for something a little left of centre. fc rx7, ford 8.8inch rear end, turbo'd buick v6, sick race car spec, built in a backyard.

lol. yeah, ill hold off on that sorta outlay until i know for certain what the issue is. sounds like theyll definitely be the go when i get it sorted though. explains the rears (although, i rebuilt those not long ago), doesnt explain the fronts. *shrug* probably the master cylinder. no biggy.

thats what im thinking. somethings up with the master cylinder. might get it rebuilt. its probably due for an overhaul anyways. and yeah... theyre not difficult to push back in. with my fat ass in it, its easily pushing 1400. not really the sort of input i was looking for though eh... had some rudimentary brake ducting for a while. didnt make any difference. at all. itd last 15 - 20 laps before going spongy with the ducting, itd last 15-20 laps before going spongy without the ducting. and pads would still get torn to shit. the only pads ive use properly on the track are the a1rm's, everything else has been street (and has worn out fast regardless), and while im aware theyre just a cross over pad, i know a lot of people that use nothing but a1rm's on track, with no dramas. most sets lasting at least 3, but often 4 track days.

more like first timers/intermediates/am performance fan boys. rad pics lukey, cheers for comin out!

so, i have a small, somewhat expensive problem with my 200sx. at the track (mallala) and during hills runs, it goes through pads like theyre not even there. ive used bendix ultimate, bendix srt's, qfm hpx, qfm a1rm, acre street fighter pads, and a slew of cheaper pads for a-b work. regardless of bedding procedure, how well theyre bled, and of machining, i experience the same problem everytime. all of them have been torn to shit in pretty short order. which is pretty baffling, especially in regards to the a1rm's, theyre a 750 degree (fahrenheit) rated pad, and while im hard on my brakes, i doubt my little 1400kg 170rwkw 200 (running 1:26 average around mallala) is bringing them up to a point where they just turn into molten nothingness after a couple hard stops. i know people that head to mallala regularly with a1rm pads, pulling faster times, in similarly weighted cars, with more power and the same 280mm 4 pot brakes, and their pads last 3-4 track days. mine dont even last one. not a single full day at the track. im using rda slotted rotors from this group buy. one of the mallala regulars that came out to the track day yesterday seems to think it might be something in the rotor casting making it more abrasive than usual, which sounds like a bit of a stretch, but would explain the extreme wear to the pads, but absolute minimal wear to the rotors themselves. any other theories?

and if wanna look cool, buy a silvia. but back to the point at hand; you dont have to be prepared to spend $20k fixing one thing after another when you buy a gtr, or any other car for that matter.* while some 'too good to be true bargains' are the real thing, a $13k modded gtr with 11ty billion kw's and sub 100,000ks on the clock is never going to be a good idea. use whatever intelligence you were born with and cultivated through experience since then (a stretch for some, i know, sucks to be you) to sort the good from the bad. be realistic, dont jump on the first example you come across screaming "OMG GTR!" and thinkin about all the 'bitches itll pull' (gotta buy a silvia for that) and youll be fine. ... or, for the enjoyment of everyone else, you can go out and buy your chosen shit box (in this case, a pre 94 gtr) against everyones advice and your own good sense, and everyone else can laugh at you. *notable exceptions being track cars. their purpose dictates a shorter parts lifetime.

good luck gettin it rego'd here. just buy my car.

saw that on north terrace yesterday. rockin xt7's. so cash.

theyre gonna be waiting a while...

ill believe it when i see it.

*shrug* couldnt see the driver. didnt much care.

white 34 gtt with gtr wheels turning onto king william from hindley at about... 12 i think it was. f**kin clean car.

not quite true. they can issue you tickets and misdemeanor shit for your car.