axe s

How heavy is it, i thought HKS ones were really heavy button action... could be wrong but...

Haha... Drive an accent as ur daily for a while, then u'll love it... mine sits in the garage and gets bugger all use and gets cleaned about that much... i felt the same about the looks of S1's before i bought mine.... but since i bought it, i think they look alright...

Probably the wife's next car a Black 34 GTR V-Spec II, Depending on Money would perfer NUR spec if we could find one... lol...

What size??

does it go through to the face? Where did u get it? Did u use a toque wrench to tighten it.... actually don't answer that...

Standard or A/M??? if it's standard, i'd be buying another secondhand one... or an A/M one.. But if u want to fix it, u probably could... but it looks like a bit of work and if it goes through to the face, it'll need to be machined when finished... so it would be cheaper to get another just from the machining cost... also where it is you wouldn't be able to bolt it down properly and it could warp... Hope it helps...

elbow grease and patients.... Just use a bug and tar remover, and make sure u have some time spare...

Standard injectors and rail ---- SOLD pending Payment...

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Pics??

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not to bad... The only thing i can see wrong is that button "FORD Power" kinda an Oxymoron... J/K Hope you enjoy it... a car is only a hairdressers car if u drive like one...

Why don't you see what Jim Berry can do for you, you will probably end up with a better clutch that is more suited to your needs.... Just a suggestion... most people recommend him...

Not having a go at him, Just stating the facts, a car is always going to run bad when you change things and don't let the computer know.... I gave him an option to get his car running better, but it still wont go as well as a tuned car...

Plenum sold pending payment.

The reason they said u need an A/M BOV is because they were to lazy to make a new return pipe for the vented air (when installing an A/M IC it's easier to put on an AM BOV), If u want the A/M BOV on there clean your AFM, AAC valve and every time your about to stop (going about 5KM/H) give it a touch on the accelerator peddle.. i would recommend going back to to standard BOV as you don't really sound like your that confident working on your car. Before you do a mod research, research, research.... even if your mechanic says you need to do this, this and this to get ...

Probably got something to do with it, "bigger turbo, air intake, front mount and bov" On stock ECU

What ECU r u running??

old style, Also can't edit my original post... Standard injectors and rail --- make an offer After market 100mm Throttle Body ---$150, Needs a bigger spring as it was sticking open a little.. and no longer have adapter, One can be made out of aluminum.. 2" Autometer A/F Gauge + Cup --- $90 5" Autometer Monster Tacho with shift light --- $130

gets it from the ecu, but it's more accurate than the analog one.

Just sounds like an F1 car... looks tuff...

Just selling some bits and pieces Rsm - $60 0.5 Gt35 front housing and back plate - $200 Greddy style plenum, Needs work, T/B face needs to be machined or adapter welded on, and one of the fuel rail bolt things are broken off and need welding back on.... $200 standard R33 S1 Manual ecu... make an offer... if ur after something and it looks like i would have removed it (by my mods below) contact me and make an offer.. I'm out of town for a while so if you want pics it might take a day or so to get my wife to take them for me.... I'll update when i think of what else i have...

Dash pics???

bonnet hinges??

can you post pics of the dash??