Demon Dave

So, to summize then: It isn't recommended to move off straight after starting the engine from cold, nor is it a good idea to leave the car idling for long periods of time.

Snake in computer for sure - a little too close for comfort!

holy sh1t!

Also, you might wanna have a look at this test of some of the more popular filters. Although the article tests pod filters, the types of filter medium remain relevant.

Not very well is the general consensus. If you want more power, greater airflow then you need to use an aftermarket filter. Trouble is, there's a trade-off: Increased airflow = poorer filtration.

I'm not sure how to do it myself. I know it was a factory option, and I think there was a aftermarket supplier too. You might find the help you need in this thread Dave

Another possibility would be the engine is running lean...

regrettably and in all honesty, if you're talking about an R33 GTS (RB20E engine) then I'd have to say they're pretty gutless. I know, I owned one for a couple of years. Unfortunately, a 2 litre single cam N/A engine putting out 130PS isn't going to win you many races, especially not in a car as heavy as an R33. But don't get me wrong, it is still a Skyline and it is an great all round car. I really hated giving up my old GTS, the only reason I did was to get an R34. Now, the R33 GTS25 (RB25DE) is a different matter - a lot more power and potential.

I've never used the CD sets, but it sounds like only 1 of the set of 6 contains the application. In that case, you must make sure you have a copy of the application CD or the other data CD's wont work.

Nice to meet a fellow GT-V owner - there doesn't seem to be many of us about. Re: questions. You have PM. Dave

Maybe got caught in a freak hailstorm? Re: the boot - I wouldn't leave it too long before fixing it. Left untreated, the rust is likely to spread...

are you sure they're rust spots? I mean, to see rust appear, the pin sized scratches would need to have cut through the clear coat, the base coat and the primer. Stone chips at the front of the car will do this, but all over the car? Not likely. Check the bonnet - if you see any on there, chances are they're not rust as the bonnet is aluminium. To prevent the rust spreading on the boot lid, you really need to clean the area up, apply an anti-corrosion liquid and have the damage repainted.

lots of sticky tape - at least that's what most of the Japanese drifters around here tend to do!

I sympathize! Getting wheels for my old R33 GTS was a pain in the neck. Unfortunately 5 stud turbo wheels won't fit. You could swap the hubs/brakes etc from a GTSt and sort it out that way. There are a few manufacturers out there that do 4 stud 114.4 wheels. I ended up getting a set of Volk CV Europes: Volk CV Europe Good luck!

Yeah, I have to admit being able to listen to a nice exhaust note as you casually stroll away from your car would be kinda nice!

My old R33 GTS ran on regular unleaded, which is what was recommended in the Japanese Handbook. The handbook for my GT-V (RB25DE) recommends nothing but "Hi Oku", or premium unleaded. Incidently, it's commonly believed that the Japanese use 100 octane (RON) fuel over here. So far, I have yet to find a gas station that listed the ratings of the various fuels available, so it's hard to say for sure exactly what octane Japanese pump gas really is!

As I understand it, the main reason for using a turbo timer on a turbo'd motor is to give the turbo's a little time to spool & cool down before stopping the flow of oil to them. I personally can't see any reason for a turbo timer on a N/A, except for trying to mislead others into thinking you car is turbo'd!

for most cars, converting them from N/A to turbo is a lot more involved than slapping on a turbo. You'd need to start by making sure you have all the extra bits and pieces (wiring, intercooler etc etc) not to mention you could have a problem with the compression ratio on the N/A block. however, I don't know alot about rotaries - maybe it is simpler (and therefore cheaper) - and so it might be worth looking into. Still, IMHO it's better to leave an N/A engine N/A. Dave

Yep, with turbo cars it is particularly important to give the oil a few moments to reach the turbos (which are usually high up on the block, thus being one of the last components to be lubricated after ignition) I think the main point though, it that there isn't anything to be gained by letting your car idle for long periods of time before moving off - the engine will warm up just as quickly when you're moving and standing still isn't doing anything to help the gearbox/transmission oil warm up...

Not wishing to state the obvious - are you sure you've got a FAST CD and not a FAST DVD?! The DVD contains the complete catalogue. You need to install the application from the DVD before it will work. There are some CD sets available (I believe it is 5 CD's in total)

perhaps this question is better suited to an RX7 forum But, in general it usually works out cheaper (and easier) to buy a turbo car instead of modding a N/A to turbo.

Some people advocate waiting a few moments after starting the engine, not to warm the car up (this can be done while moving) but to ensure that the oil pump has been given sufficient time to circluate oil around the upper block/head/cam area. Personally, I always give my car a minute or two before moving off, then take it easy until the temp has reached normal.

Quickly, it says: R33 GTSt Type M aero 59698KM with a ? - which means that they are not 100% sure about the KM's, this is probably due to it having aftermarket clocks. Color = silver Interior trim = grey Power steering & airbag The rest is a little blurry and hard to make out. It does, however look like the car has two long scratches along each rear fender - look at the body diagram. Dave

R33 GTSt Type M 88414 KM Manual Auto Air con 17 alloys GTR bumper and front lip (splitter) FRP trunk lid APEX RX-6 turbo kit RB25 engine with Rb26 pistons Hicam valve springs? 660cc injectors HKS intercooler oil cooler HKS EVC Metal head gasket to list some of the key points. there's more, but it's a little difficult to read! Dave

easiest way to find out for sure - keep driving until either: a/ you see the red light come on or b/ you run out of petrol!