Demon Dave

It maybe something to do with the voltage regulator - however AFAIK they're primarily used to make sure your dash meters give a constant reading desite varying levels of power going through the circuits (i.e. when your reving hard the alternator is going to generate more power...) Of course, I'm probably wrong! I think the little tube for the batter is a drain in case of overfill or something... Most newer batteries are supposed to be "maintenance free" - you shouldn't need to replace the water in them.

Hi Ian, The widest I've seen here is 265's on the rear, but the car was stationary so I can't say whether they'd be any rubbing whilst moving. I know you can fit 255's with ease, so that combined with a nice set of springs/shocks should ensure there's no rubbing at the rear. On the front, 99% of the GTT's I know of are running 235's. I think you can go wider, but it's necessary to start removing the inner guards and maybe even rolling the arches... Regards Dave

I've seen a couple of Skylines over here with the boot spoiler removed. You can buy replacement "flush fitting" boot lids too - looks pretty cool, especially when the car is lowered...

I think that the windows are one of the weaker points of Skylines, particularly since they use a frame-less design. The glass has to be pressured against the rubber trim in order to form a water-tight seal and I think this causes problems. I had a similar problem on my old car when I first got it and it was only 6 years old at the time... Still, having the door panels removed aint that much a job and I took the opportunity to have some better speakers installed along with a load of sound deadening material too:D

The creeking noise from the window is a common thing on Skylines - it's normally just loose bolts on the mechanism - you need to remove the door panel to fix. Over time the rubber/fabric guide wears. It should push up against the glass, if it doesn't water, dirt and anything else can easily get inside the door. I'd suggest having the door panel removed so that you can fix the creeking window, check for any rust/damage and replace the fabric guide... Cheers Dave

most likely either your alternator (charger) has a bad connection or is on it's way out. Your battery could have the same. Ohh, and if you have a big sound install, the power drain from any amps/subs etc will cause your lights to dim in time with the bass!

I was told the exact same thing a couple of years ago and believed it until I saw one at the NISMO festival and did some checkking and found there were some blue GT/GTT's around...

A pic of my old R33 GTS with a single blue neon mounted behind the front bumper. Rice? Maybe so, but it was my car so I can do whatever I want! My thoughts - it's your car, do whatever you want!

Assuming your seatbelts have not been changed (don't know much about the rules/proceedures in OZ) then there should be a label/tab thingy stitched onto the seatbelt near the point where it attaches to the floor. That has the date of manufacture which almost always corresponds to the date the chassis was put together. Additionally, I believe that there is a sticker on the back of the airbags (if you have them) that indicates date of manufacture - though, if they've ever been deployed in a crash they're likely to be newer ones... of course, you've got to pull your steering wheel apart to get at this:rolleyes:

The date of manufacture is written on the tab on the seatbelts (unless they've been changed at some point)

Nope - strange one that. I tried to find out why when I last when down to my Nissan dealer, but no one there could give me the answer... Still, I can't say I'm disappointed - it's more fun without traction control:D

Don't shave the mag - not only will you un-balance the wheel but you could also reduce it's stuctural rigidity and that could be disasterous... Either: Shave the NISSAN writing off the caliper Or (depending on the legality of it) Use a thin wheels spacer... Or you could get another set of wheels!

The RB engines are notorious for dodgy oil pressure guages - so it could be a false reading. (I had the same problem about a year ago - turned out to be faulty guage...) But, it is better to check - make sure you have no oil leaks, and that the oil is of the correct grade. In addition older, higher mileage engines tend to show lower pressure, particularly at idle. Generally it should be around 4gkcm when first started from cold, and drop to around 2 - 3 kgcm when idling and hot. Under acceleration it should rise along with engine RPM... Hope it helps Dave

Thanks for the comments! OK, links for Japanese car auctions: (Sorry, all the sites are in Japanese - best to use an online translator - it's preferable to trying to learn to read Japanese, which takes approximately as long as Law School:D ) http://www.zele-international.com/ http://www.k-staff.net/ http://221616.com/app/hanbai/zaikosearch1.jsp http://www.freed.gr.jp/ http://www.best-r.com/zaiko/r33/zaikotop.htm http://www.kaizousha.com/ (Has lots of cheap & highly modded Skylines!) Happy Hunting Regards Dave

My ER34 Bayside Blue

The R34 range came out in 1998. These early R34's (non GTR) were NOT available in bayside Blue. Later with the release of the GTR Nissan introduced the bayside blue color. In 2000 Nissan released a special model, the R34 GT-V. This was available in B-Blue, and following on from that, all R34 models (GT, GTT GT-V, 2 & 4 doors etc were available in B-Blue...

I had the same problem. I took it to Nissan, who fixed it - apparently it's a loose bolt or something in the winding mechanism. You need to remove the door panel to fix it. It doesn't take long to do (it took my garage less than 30 minutes) and when it's done you can wind up and down in silence...

IMHO If insurance is an issue, then a GTR's power/performance etc could be prohibitive. In terms of Stock performance, an R34 GTT would/should be quicker than a R33 GTSt and obviously more expensive. If you want a Bayside Blue color, then you've definitely got to go for an R34 - Bayside Blue wasn't available on the 33's (unless it's a respray) With 280PS, plenty of torque, decent brakes and suspension a stock R34 GTT would be a good buy...

My old Skyline was black - great color and looked superb when it was clean... Just a pity that it was so difficult to keep it clean. But, I have to say that Bayside Blue is my favorite color:D

Regarding parts, from my 2 years+ experience with an RB20E - in terms of mods, not a lot. Most of the major manufacturers concentrate on the turbo'd motors, then the twin cams - there isn't much for the RB20E. In terms of general replacement parts, anything you need can be gotten from Nissan (here in Japan) but I was always aware that my car wasn't as common (compared with GTS25's, GTSt's etc) due to it's lack of power. I'd imagine there aren't very many RB20E'd powered motors imported so sourcing parts downunder could prove...challenging. Regards Dave

Yep. I agree, which is why I spent ages looking for a Skyline (non GTR) in that color;) Even here, in Japan, my car is a rarity - and that was exactly what I was looking for:D Cheers Dave

Ditto to what Nismodified said - my old GTS was powered by an RB20E, entry level engine. A little underpowered I felt, max is around 130PS but a solid, reliable engine nontheless...

Your car looks awesome! You've gotta be well proud. Like you said, get the front lip color coded with the body - it'll make the car look even lower then it is now! Regards Dave

Summers here and things are hotting up I've been thinking of getting an oil cooler, but it doesn't look like any of the main manufacturers make a cooler for the N/A RB25DE??? Anyone here with an oil cooler, and if so - what brand/type and did it make much difference to oil temps? Cheers Dave

I was contacted a few weeks ago and asked if I'd like to have my N/A R34 GT-V appear as a feature in Nissan Performance Mag... well, if anyones interested, here's the link: Nissan Performance Mag To my surprise and delight, I made the front cover! Regards Dave