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Hmm, thats a fair big ask though, photoshopping on 4 or 5 different pairs of wheels. I'll have a go with mspaint, see what happens Spyders do look very nice on ur car wogs

tanks guys, i can see what it looks like, i was dead set on pulling it off, now im definitely leaving it on thanks

Hmm, my current ones are like those two on the right, so i was thinking i'd shy away from the same style Didnt even notice those ones on the left though, they look pretty cool, wish i was good at photoshopping this would be a lot easier

Hmm, yeh i can see the chrome being to much now i think of it, specially on yellow. But i liked that design because it looked half import half typical Any one got any pics of 19's on a r32, so i can see just how big they look?

http://www.speedywheels.com.au/alloy.htm Check that out and tell me what you think would look nice on a yellow r32 Was thinking some 19X8.5 Cross-5 Chrome, you reckon they'd look sweet, or too plain? Its hard to find wheels that look good on yellow Also if i put 19X8.5's on it, with say 30 series tyres, would i be able to lower it a bit, or you think i'd have rubbing issues? Reason i say speedy, is because i get awesome discounts from them, and only them Thanks guys

Ah, true, it's for low powered cars or something i suppose. Some one needs to do a DIY/Tutorial on drag racing methinks

The box looks to sturdy to pull apart, but as it doesnt make any difference whether i have 2 or 4 terminals wried up, im assuming they've got the sub bridge to the top two terminals like siks said. So, ill just keep using it on full gain with the 12db boost. Should you need equalizers to make the sub loud? I have loud off and bass on 0, because if i turn volume up with bass up on the EQ, the speakers make a noise like a whip cracking after a certain volume level is reached. I think this is because im still running them through the standard amps front and back. I'll take out that metal plate behind it see if that makes any difference, maybe the boot will rattle less, its louder than the sub at the moment. My other problem is, if i have gain full then my sub sort of kicks. It only happens when the car is off and ignition is off, and head unit is off. Just sort of kicks really fast, more gain louder the kicks. I've checked my ground and ran a 2nd one no help. The kicking goes ALOT quieter when i unplug one of the RCA plugs. So i was thinking of wiring up a power switch to the amp to stop it running my battery flat. Assuming this kicking interference isnt going to affect sound quality or level when the subs in play, because it only kicks when the head unit is off Thanks Thats alot i know

yeh, pm me if u wanna hear mine, im sure they'll be along the lines of nismoids though

Ohh i thought all that shiney stuff, about 5 meters before the line WAS oil, or at least water. Guess its just light refracting off some swamp gasses on jupiter or something. Slicks make sense, didnt think of that.. duh

hmm, why is it so difficult to do burnouts exactly? After watching those vidoes people really struggling, is it something to do with 1st revving out to quick because of the oil, and having to take it easy or wa?

nah, 1 bar is bordering on the turbo's max efficiency, some people report a performance drop even, from 12 psi. Anyway, 14 psi (1 bar) is too high for the standard turbo and it wont last long, try out 12 psi (.83 bar i think) it'll still feel quite a bit faster than stock

hmm, when i had the stock 32 turbo, dropping it from about 2500 was the perfect launch. Now with the r34 turbo its impossible to take off. Wouldnt bother taking it to a strip, too hard to launch, id be looking at 15's. I've tried riding it down from 4k, too much clutch burn, 3k, it bogs even if i let it slow or it wheel spins to the top and dropping it from everywhere means either bog or burn. I was driving my mates civic (91, twin carb, 1.6L), he was in my skyline, i was in front of him on take off for at least 50 meters, till spoolage and traction and lag fixed itself and the line overtook gey assd rb20

The front is butt ugly, if they go with the front on those top pics, the grill comes out on too much of an angle, the back looks like a mix between an s2000 and the old supra. The lower ones look ok i suppose, but a 350 looks better in my opinion. Looks a million times better than the r35 though, ewwwww *slaps nissan*

ahh ok, i tried bridging the + and - into the top two and running power off those into the bottom two and was wondering why it didnt make any sound difference Guessing mine are also all hooked up inside the box Sucks a bit, i was hoping it was only using 1 coil and wouldd be louder with two. Zzz $800 sub and amp combo and its not even loud >.<

hey guys i bought a sub the other day, its a kenwood 12", in a kenwood box, the box the sub comes packaged in. I can get the model number if itll be helpful. Anyway i just wanted to know why it has 2 +, 2 - terminals? Are two unplugged, and just a superfluity, or am i meant to have my left channel going to one set and right going to the other? Its a 1 ohm sub, with dual voice coils if that helps, the amp is a kenwood krc-81010 if that helps. Also its loud but i have to have the 12db boost and gain all the way up for it to sound loud Thanks guys

ahh thanks, thats what i wantd to know, the location of that, cheers mate, ill go have a look Yeh that fixed it, thanks for all your help guys =)

Ok so i just pulled out the head unit and the fuse in the back is ok, also the inline that i could get at from the battery to the unit was fine. Is there another fuse box somewhere that i dont know about?

demit, how come i get 167, with more mods, on 14 psi, on a engine that so many people have told me is in really good nick. Rb25 time i suppose Nice results

I tried a new battery in mine, fully charged, and seeing as it happened straight away (thumpin), again, with a fully charged battery, assumed that it wasnt the alternator or the battery that was my problem Ima try clean those out now, see what happens

yeh, it was disconnected, when i put it all together. I've checked all my fuses except one, but.. Is it likely that the fuse to my head unit being blown will mean that my dashboard clock wont work? Thanks guys

ok so i just installed like a 800 dollar sub and amp combo and it worked then i tried to redo the wiring coz it looked bad. Then while moving the amp i heard something sparking and the amp stopped working, ive checked all the fuses no prob there and all the wires. Now my head unit is getting power because the security light is flashing but it wont turn on. My car runs alright and everything but the clock on the dash doesnt any suggestions? I checked the fuses under the bonet, near the battery, in that little box, but theres not many so.. Any suggestions

Hmm its odd that my 32 doesnt do it, 34 turbo, fmic, and some other crap. With pod on it gives a good intake sound, but flutters are impossible to hear outside of the car.. I've heard some VL's and a gsr lancer (hehe) do the flutter noises at high rpm, mine seems to do it only at RPM's where the turbo is just coming onto spool, doesnt seem to make any sense to me, would have thought the more RPM u got the louder it would be. Makes no sense to me Maybe my turboes just to small. Lancer has significantly smaller engine capacity to.. Not that i really mind, coz im not a wog, but still find it odd

What state are you from, there not illegal in victoria. I assume that whether its connected to the ECU or not, it'd still need to be plumbed into a boost source

not that i could see in this topic; + some stuff people said b4 seemed to imply it did

Can any one answer and of my questions on the previous page? Got me worried now, had my heart set on a a gtr once i hit 21, now i might still be on my p's when im 21? Also, theres way to many 40+ skyline drivers in my opinion having a whinge about kids these days -_-