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P2 plates? Once your over 21 you get these? I dont quit get what your saying. i have two cars with: engines with eight or more cylinders turbocharged or supercharged engines nominated high performance six cylinder engines engines that have been mod'ed to increase performance and under the current restrictions i can drive them, but i wont be 21 till october next year, so.. i won't be able to drive them? Does this only apply to people who havnt got there licence yet? Or had it for what amount of time? Very irritating..

ah, i meant as in, altenator is screwed, not as in whether its capable of it. Just that mine only does it when i have lots of accessories on, and i've heard hicas can mess up if its not getting enough power. Also while i get this thump and im driving, on every thump noise the steering wheel jerks.

Hey, im having the same sort of problem as you, and no one else seems to get it (with the thumping). Cept mine happens when your at the lights with A/C on and head lights or brakes on. Can you set yuor car idling, turn your A/C and high beams on and check it in 3 or 4 minutes, see if its thumping please? I'm thinking my prob iss the alternator, maybe your turbo timer is sucking to much juice to? Post back here if you check that, cheers

yeh, i know $160 is too much, but meh, i prefer to pay $160 over hunting one down at a cheaper price, and then finding the shop; Don't know about dual layer foam flowing better, i read something on the contrary, its pretty cheap stuff. Hehe actually even autobarn stocks the foam filters for round $90

Lag doesnt tend to happen at 5000rpm on a stock turbo..

yeh, its about 2-4 psi too high, the sluggishness will be because its running mroe boost than it can do efficiently. Won't last long either, 12 psi is about max you should pump through these

Nah whats being described happens as you change gears, i.e. you push 1st to 6krpm, put it into 2nd fast and as you slam your foot back down the car jerks around, then takes off. What your describing could be a number of things but, when it happened to me, was my fuel pump

They run 10 psi stock and about 12 max, so maybe whoever set it up got it confused with a 33. You can use a r33 controller in a r32 they're just high on something, dont need to swap the actuator, the r32 actuator runs only one boost pressure, but a boost controllers gonna over-ride your actuator anyway

a enclosed pod would work better than a panel in a box, because of the higher flow, but no one makes boxes for a r32. But even then it could just be overkill depending on your turboes air needs. pod will flow higher out of a box but the air will be at least 10-15 degrees hotter, so a panel in a stock box would be better. They dont flow that bad anyway. + if you got the stutters it might fix it like it did to me (when i changed pod to panel)

Nah i haven't seen them, i probably would have got one, splitfire makes some ok products, sucks being too lazy to shop around

Yeh, i got it from autobarn (where they know how much they can charge for anything branded "performance) The K&N was $130, but i got a BMC one because the guy said they were better.. Dunno whether they were but they are much cooler (silicon outter edging), and the packaging claims that there made in italy and that the company has designed a few air filtration systems on f1's, which always sucks fools like me in

hehe probably a stupid suggestion, but have you tried adjusting the angle screws on the back of the lights? I thought mine were dim, then i figured they were just aimed down to much, and one of them was aimed cross eyed. Doubt that'll help but its worth a shot

Hey, i used to have a pod, but i figured that it was getting heat soaked alot so i bought a ($160) high flow panel for it and coulndt be happier (i know $160 is alot but i wanted a good one). I noticed pretty much all of the people who complain about stuttering when changing gears (mainly 1st to 2nd) at high revs have pod filters. I used to have the problem pretty big, especially after replacing the turbo. I would shift into 2nd and it would feel like i hit something then it would start accelerating again. So anyway, i replaced the pod with a fliter and now its totally fixed, can shift into 2nd as high as 7krpm and not even have a shudder. The noise is quieter than the pod, but you can still hear it, and its quite loud outside the car. Performance wise it seems about the same as the pod, but id expect its better as the air is probably 10-15 degrees cooler, and the flow is probably at the max the turbo can pull in anyway Anyway, just thought that might help some one tossing up between pod and a filter;

ditto with every one else, even though mine is modded. If i take it up to the black spur and drive it around pretty hard i get about 320 bare min per tank, if i nurse it i can get 420, get about 380-400 in the city, which is sort of all-around driving

too bad i dunno how to resize it then huh -_- Can sum1 with cable (like me) cut it? :D

If i was you i would take it to a mechanic and get him to test the fuel pressure and flow. Mine was maxing out so bad at about 4.5krpm that i could almost feel myself getting pushed forward in my seat instead of back once it hit those revs, then it climbed damn slowly, was alot more noticeable in 2nd than first as well (The boost gauge didn't indicate my problem either). I tried a number of things and it ended up being the Fuel pump, i fixed that and it pulled alot harder, didnt feel any real drop off till about 6krpm.

Bad luck man, i had to drive my car once or twice no insurance and i was shitting myself $3000 for insurance with just car.. You got a bad driving record? For a r32 on my P's i pay 1700

you have a 34 neo engine in a 32 and your only making 188 kw

i had a performance shop offer to install one of these into my car for $2100 (including swapping everything over and remapping my stock ecu) which i thought sounded pretty decent, but i was only expecting 6 or 7 psi because the compression is pretty high already. Without replacing anything bottom end to decrease compression, what sort of power would you be looking at with your setup? You can pm me if you like, i dun wana get your thread off topic.

get a hi flow 32/33 turbo or a 2530 you can get both for about $1500 maybe slightly more for the 2530

Rb20 engine ECU remap r34 Neo turbo Bosch 044 fuel pump Hi-flow panel filter 3" exhaust FMIC 14 PSI boost 166rwkw Done in 4th gear, on a fairly cold night

ohh ok cheers. Wasnt sure about the anti skid, i had heard that 32's were meant to have ABS and anti skid sorta sounds like ABS, that and when i lock my brakes up it certainly doesnt behave like it has. Oh well Hmm hopefully i will drop the cat off tonight, although knowing my luck its been welded on and is impossible to take off. my exhaust is kind of bits and pieces of 3" pipe like quite a few other ones have, i guess the dealers do it so they can put the 3" system in as a sale point and if he was cutting corners i would guess its standard Ill measure it tonight and post up here, thanks

Try cleaning out the AFM (e.g. with carby cleaner), a dirty AFM seems a common cause of that on 32's.

ummm is that to big?

Im gonna take my wing off soon, wondering if some one could photochop it off so i can get a idea of what itll look like