123456

Grab a multimeter and probe the yellow/red wires (with car off then on) coming out the back of your stereo. One will be an accessory (same as the cigarette lighter) just splice off that. Also some newer stereo's have auto-dim wires set up and if (like mine) your boost gauge supports that you can run the other wires, spliced off these

I've had a tuner tell me not to buy an ebc, keep the one i've got because there great mine spikes a tiny bit about half a psi when it hits full boost and even though my car drops off power at about 5800rpm the boost stays at 14psi all the way through and past redline, afr's stay fine. Yours sounds weird, mine is about in the middle of the thread and is cranking 14psi, so maybe its shagged?

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I thought the wires to be shorted were on the ecu, not the fuse box. Resetting mine didn't do anything either.. Wouldn't the ecu just be set up to react to current environments and not remember the way the weather and your driving has been for the last 6 months.. That seem's the logical way to set it up to me

Yeh, i agree on that, rb20 sound is far nicer than the sr20 sound You also have to consider which model sr20 you want because there are different models from different years. It's a same-sized engine and if it's the same year as an rb20 i'd be expecting it to put out less power not more . The new ones are nice though if that's what your looking at, people mod the crap out of them and they handle it well, but then why upgrade to a silvia engine when u can drop a rb25 in the same space as your old rb20 fit, easily, and have an extra half a litre of displacement + shedloads of torque

Yehh, true, but i'm sad, i ended up not sleeping and going to work at 5:30am, 3 hours overtime doesn't hurt i spose

Yeh but he wants one because he's heard it reduces restriction, he also wants to know if anyone notices differences, so i'm assuming he's looking at it from a performance aspect anyways wtf are ppl doing awake at 2am on a sunday night

I'm quite sure i'm not cut/pasting anything retard What i'm saying is there's no point getting one of these, unless your running decent power or want to dose

Not unless you have a high kilowatt application thats pulling 230kw++ and the only reason you'd notice a difference is because at these power levels the standard rubberised induction pipes can suck themselves closed and severly bottleneck airflow. so yeh, unless yours is sucking itself closed you'll notice no difference

Interested in Trading it for a r32 gtst + a lil cash?

if u only want 160rwkw upgrade to a r33 turbo or just work with the one u have and get a decent exhaust system, fmic, boost controller @12psi and a panel, shouldnt need a fuel pressure reg, maybe a fuel pump because they die alot

Ah really, that sounds tight, been wanting to find one of these for ages, was just a bit confused regarding the price, $15 seems like very little, thats why i thought it was spectate only, i'll try get there tonight

Yeh, it's just an exhaust temperature sensor that is designed to light up a LED on your dashboard if the exhaust gets too hot, it's pretty superfluous, just remove it

Erm, is it virtual drift or real drift? can you participate in the actual drifting part? What do u need the gear for, for the virtual drag/burnouts?

Oh yeh, didnt think of puting it into diagnostic mode, sounds like alot of work pulling the dash apart and i don't trust japanese cars, everythings so brittle, so i'll just leave it i spose

Pretty good chance that it's the alternator, try get your mits on a multimeter and test the voltage under lights/a/c and anything else that drains battery. reconditioning is about the same price as a new one, if u can try get a 2nd hand one, can save a few hundred $

Yeh, gains of 5-15kw are possible, and if it's set up you can get better response and a meatier midrange/highrange btw, Never thought i'd say this, but that car bra looks awesome

Head up to healesville, through the town and onto the blackspur, best road i know of in victoria, kills great ocean even in my opinion. - It's a 100 zone, lots of positive camber, smooth surface etc, dunno what touge is mind you, but yeh it's a good road for cornering

Looks nice, it's a concept i suppose? I heard that honda had scrapped nsx's, guess/hope not

Paradizzle my point is no car/company has ever had that much exposure from wheels before, probably not from any magazine ever lol. I would love a new SS, they look so phat, i'm not anti holden, and im not exactly pro import either, got a skyline coz its the fastest thing i can drive on my p's.. But yeh, wheels went so overboard and it pee'd me off. i get a free subscription with work and now i hardly peruse the magazines, normally only read the letters page, which were for a while packed with complaints in regard to over-coverage of the VE

haha dude u got too much time on your hands. Umm also duno if u had one but theres a gasket you can just peel off the bottom of the flange that makes tracing alot easier

Yeh i just left mine on BOV, Only reason im asking is coz im lazy and if i decide im sick of flutterz i want it to be easy to switch back "Im pretty sure the tube is a vacuum which opens the BOV when you take your foot off" Yeh thats what i meant, wasn't thinking of what i was typing lol

Just curious y did u block the tube off? Just that i didn't think it would matter, it's only for pressure regulation (i think ) and as it's not getting any pressure i'd think it wouldnt make any difference whether blocked off or not. Correct me if im wrong but air only goes into the manifold nothing goes the other way right? (which i probably am not) And na u shouldnt need to block the plumbback as it's not getting any air to it either

Ah if u can fit it in the gap, it won't do a whole lot, the can wil probably get shaken up and will eventually de-carbonate, it won't cool it down either, your best bet is the fridge

we've both got R34 turboes, and yeh they're ceramic (come to think of it i think those s14's have steel wheeled turboes in them from stock) (mind you he's making 30rwkw more than me)