123456

Ah i just got EPA'd for having too loud an exhaust. Gotta take it in before next month. The day in question, i was driving back from a performance shop with only 3 bolts in my dump, because of some snappage, so it was pretty loud. Was thinking once i get it fixed itll be all good, but now.. Alot of people seem to get high readings. I've got split dump, 3" - 3" cat then 3" back to HKS super dragger muffler with 5 or 6 inch tip and from what i've read it seems like i'll be looking at 95db + (90 is all thats allowed in vic). Its a rb20 so i didn't think it was that loud. On idle it has a nice lumpy wrx-like note and inside the car the revving isn't very loud, with my mate driving it past me it sounds good but like, i've never set car alarms off. Are the rb25's much louder?. My pod used to drown the engine revs out. This topic has got me worried though. How can i make it quieter temporarily? I need the flow.. Can i jam something up there, like idk feathers or something to make it quieter? Sucks because i've never had any trouble about exhaust noise b4

friend = frd i assume. Isn't "keke" the way vietnamese people laugh? I got a few on my msn who laugh like that

Something i saw other day on youtube was quite disturbing, involved static electricity a car and a petrol bowser. Overkill is great, as long as people buy it. Could just set up a servo to automatically reset itself to off position (which would be facing down, at the tyre) whenever the power is cut to it, my old remote control car used to do this once turned off.

yeh, well i've only had a skyline for 4 months and all my other cars have been pre-75, so you gotta learn some time ay

Hi, i have the same front bar as you, my car was originally a type M with the little lip hanging down but that has been removed and i think the lip it has now got is a mounting bracket for the original one. Anyway this caused alot of hassle and i had to cut all the way to the front of my kit to get around it and fit the cooler in, with the piping ending just at the front of the little mountings for the spotties. I doubt you will get away with keeping the spotties without removing the bracket. Also you will need to cut a hole below you're battery (get a hole saw, or just use a drill like i did) and possibly get some 25 degree angle 3" piping, as mine didn't seem to all match up (stupid type M lip mounting bracket) Hope that helped, i gotta get mine resprayed coz the paint got shagged after the cooler install

Ohhh ok thought the gasket joiny watsit looked familiar. K its all off, stensiled up a coke can for a gasket blocker, jammed a coke cap in one pipe and a screw in the other and put the bov back on.. Now all i gotta do is put the pipes back onto the BOV so it doesn't look sketchy. Am a bit worried the aluminium from the can will bend and flap but oh wellz.

its a downdraft webber duhh, soo did i circle it right? It'd be alot more saleable if you told me what it was or where it was btw

Ahhh T.T i still cant see it That? I thought it'd be more inline than that, and that has an extra hose i can't account for Is it next to my carburettor? *Lost*

OK so can some one circle it or where its meant to be please? (The standard BOV) Cheers Cheers (note, i have a aftermarket FMIC, so the top Inlet nipple is gone)

Well i know 3 people with them and all of the BOV outlets are bunged up (well the outlets from the plumb??). I thought r32 gts-t and below were all BOV-less.. I've never really looked into BOV's and consequently know very little (so no need to go hack). To me, in most respects, they appeared quite superfluous, but if 32 gts-t's have them from standard i'd be interested in putting one on. Any pics of this crossover pipe? Or of the positioning of the BOV?

waa? I don't know any one who has one with a BOV I meant any r32 model, btw.. All have the outlet on the inlet piping but all were blocked with rubber grommets.. Not to mention everything i've read on this site seems to suggest rb20's were BOV-less

Nah its 13.5-14 somewhere there, go google and check out the converters

Could you run a rubber strap from some part on the chassis onto one of the tyes? They're grounded, and you wouldn't be able to see the strap if you positioned it well

Didn't think any model had a BOV standard..

Upping it to 12 won't hurt but the standard turbo gets boring pretty quickly, so buy a cheap boost controller, and crank the psi to 12 after you've put the exhaust on, and run around on that while you save for a better turbo. Standard rb20 turbo @ 12 psi is preeety boring

Truee, forgot about that.. Only problem is that im not so good with maps.. I'll convince my mate to bring his 91 GL civic for a run and i can follow him there. Should be mildly amusing cheers

Me, hoping that the dyno will be more leniant (<<? lenient?) kilowatt wise, would love to get a 180+rwkw reading i can brag about not to mention the new CAT and dump (which still only has 2 bolts in it) Only problem is finding nunawading.. Maybe i can follow someone up or summat?

Ah, everything i seemed to read said remove the backings first, wish i had known this, woulda made things alot easier i bet Oh well at least mum is good with a sewing machine, im sure she can fix the ripped stitching >.<

Yay, got it, solution = 50cm long phillips head screwdriver, alot of levering down with a crow bar, to get the driver in and alot of 2 handed twisting. Swear to god if i ever find the dick that came up with this design, zzz Seat belt thingy was rooted, some plastic gear had snapped in about 30 places, and i cant figure out how to get the buckle off the belt so ima just cut it

How do you get to the bottom bolts guys? ive been trying to get different kinds of tools in there all day and ima snap the bolt off soon

blah jsut noticed 3 posts down, some one asking the same thing haha, nvm Edit: not specific about undoing bottom bolts, question still stands

OK so my seatbelt is shagged and im trying to take it out but i need to remove the back seats. Problem is they are bolted down the sides (actually only one side is bolted) and i cant get to the bolt. The seats have little metal apendages up the top that they hook into. DOwn the sides the bolt is positioned so that the bottom seat cushion is in the way and its impossible to take it out. I've tried every tool i can think of, i have achieved about an 8th of a turn, and its not jammed or anything its just freaking hard to get to. In a few minutes im just going to crack it and snap the bolt off. Any one know how to remove the fugn thing? Car is a r32 gts-turbo cheers

Is there any noticeable performance gain in getting an aftermarket exhaust manifold on a lightly modified car, like mine? I heard the stock ones were good for 250rwkw?

A question, i have a r34 turbo on mine (same exhaust housing as a vg30) which means that its pretty laggy. In 1st it doesnt start boosting till about 3.5-3.8krpm, and doesnt push u back till about 4.6. In first if i drop clutch at about 3.5 i get spinnage, but revs still drop. If i ride the clutch in 1st at about 4krpm it spins through to 2nd and if i ride it any lower it bogs. Ever one says its too laggy for the rb20. But is it to laggy for streetability, or too laggy to make it a good 1/4 mile turbo? My original turbo was so much faster on take off that its not funny

yeh sorta overlooked those, there not bad looking, too bad they dont come in a 19X9 err speaking of which, will i fit 19X9 on back and 19X8.5 on front or will i have to go 19X8.5 back and 19X8 front? I will be lowering the car a lil to (too make em sit right)