chiksluvit

Thanks but desperately needed space, and wheels weren't matching wheels either A forum member picked it up on the weekend so all gone now!

As stated in title, need to get rid of them to clear up more space in garage, throwing them away if no one takes them this weekend, located in Chatswood 2x voltec 5 spoke wheels and tyres 1x volk AV3 Will clear Gtst calipers, size is roughly 8" wide and 30ish offset, was previously fitted on r33 Gtst PM me if interested

Yeah also tested the +ve by connecting the -ve of multimeter on strut tower nut, I get constant 13v Like said above I've checked voltage with solenoid connected, disconnected, positive on wire negative on wire and positive on wire negative on chassis I will try swapping the plumbing around, just haven't done it because I'm still at work and cars at home

I just didn't know how to check resistance, i know how to check voltage, here's a photo of the multimeter hooked up to the cut wires on the plug, BC on @ idle I thought no on the solenoid is normally open, nc on solenoid means normally closed, com means common, read this up from somewhere, I could be wrong Also I've tested the solenoid, you could blow through NO to com when it's unplugged, hook it up to a battery you can't, but you can from NC to com If your solenoid is getting full 13v when boost controller is turned off like mine did before I got the commander then NO turns off, and you get unlimited boost Think I'll just get a turbotech or run a separate ebc

pretty sure NO means it's open to the com port, not open to atmo- ie boost signal goes to the actuator unplug the solenoid and go for a drive, you won't get unlimited boost, so if it dies one day you should just be running actuator boost PFC grounds the solenoid -ve when BC is turned off so the solenoid is constantly charged up, ie completes the circuit, which closes NO and opens NC, thats why you got the unlimited boost, same as what i had experienced

no I haven't tested the resistance on the solenoid, then again i'm not really good with multimeters so I'm not sure how to check that or even what the numbers mean- anyway so here's what i've done Electrical tests solenoid unplugged BC on: 0.3v @ idle, fluctuates a bit when revved in neutral, can go all the way to 3v solenoid unplugged BC off: 0.3 at idle and full 13v when revved slightly solenoid plugged: 0v BC on or off, rev or idle, the +ve side is constantly getting the 13v, so just the ground side not grounding when its supposed to. like as if the PFC knows i've got the solenoid connected and decides to not work caus it didn't like the solenoid Plumbing Its stock internal gated turbo, so plumbing's different to the diagram. I'm very sure the solenoid is plumbed right, plumbed the AVCR on my old car the same way according to apexi's instruction and it worked, NO to intercooler piping and COM to actuator, NC left out; so according to guilt-toy's diagram it would be port 2 to actuator, port 3 to intercooler piping Driving and PFC setting redlined the car a few times, no boost cut, max boost is 0.55, thats 7~8 psi, won't go over 0.6kgcm2 tried running the boost signal directly from intercooler pipe to the actuator, same result- this suggests the solenoid was not working at all it's currently set at 0.7kgcm2, duty cycle 50. Have tried both 0.7kgcm2 and 1kgcm2 with duty cycle ranging from 40~90 in both boost settings, yet no difference everything else on the PFC is fine, i can change the AFM setting it'll run like crap, fuel and ign map's been tuned and it drives nicer than before, change the idle rpm and engine responds, no other problems other than the annoying fact that BC won't work Other things I've tried funny how it all started with unlimited boost before i got my FC commander, turned BC on after I got the FC commander and I then get standard boost no matter how I set it, turn it off and no more unlimited boost tried pulling the FC commander out too and yet still standard boost, BC on or off, made no difference Solenoid Solenoid is normally open, if you plumb it to NO port (port 3) for internal gated turbos It would be normally closed if you plumb it to NC port (port 1), but thats for external gated setups Have also bought a MAC solenoid to try out, and that won't work either. Tested both of the solenoids and they would click as soon as i connect them directly to the dead battery i have sitting in my garage, still getting around 10v on that not sure if there's anything special about the apexi solenoid? has anyone had any success running a non genuine solenoid like MAC valve on the PFC? it seems like the RX7 guys like to use them with PFC as they're cheap and does the job it was easy on my friend's r34 GTR, plugged it in, turned BC on, and hear solenoid ticking away when the +ve pressure starts to build my car- dead as a starfish i'm almost at the point of giving up and just going to get a turbotech

Have test driven it a lot of times and not getting any boost control, no matter how I set it, still getting standard 7psi, PFC set on 10psi It gets voltage with BC off when engines idling, solenoid unplugged. Plug it in and no voltage again You're right there's no voltage when BC is turned on I thought you're meant to get roughly 3v fluctuation during idle

I did the tests with the engine running What I meant by on/off was boost control setting in PFC

so here's the update- still trying to get this to work went away for holidays, came back and battery died replaced battery and installed the hand controller, no more unlimited boost with boost controller function off, but with boost controller on i'm also getting standard boost (~7psi stock turbo) realised map sensor wasn't the right one, so changed that now it reads boost perfectly fine, but still no boost control. doesn't matter how much boost and duty cycle so brought out the multimeter, here's the result unplugged solenoid, tested voltage, getting fluctuating voltage with B/C off, same as before plugged it back and cut the wire between the plug and solenoid- still getting the fluctuating voltage, ie power FC is sending through voltage and the plug contact is fine tested solenoid by directly hooking it up to battery- ticks so solenoid works soldered the solenoid back on, tested voltage on the exposed wire before i heat shrink it- 0v with B/C on or off! i'm pretty confused with what's happening here, everything seems to work fine but just won't work when i put them together I've also tried adjusting the duty cycle from 50~70 on boost profile 1, 10psi/ 0.7kg/cm2, still no good

I can conclude that AVCR sensor is different compared to the PFC map sensor, had the wrong sensor so that's what was causing the boost numbers to not read right on the hand controller Got another map sensor on it and it's now showing the right boost levels, verified against the blitz boost gauge for anyone who's interested, the apexi denso one cost around $2~300, GM 3 bar sensor works but price varies and you'll need to do some soldering to fit the plug, so I thought I'd give this $40 no brand generic sensor a go and it was pretty spot on, been on the car for a few days now and it works fine

Those densos fitted fine on my old car, just gotta take the rubber off from the caps

Thabks guys for your help Will order one of those denso sensors, looks like it'll be expensive

looks like I've got the wrong map sensor- tried the genuine apexi one and that is still doing the same thing the one I bought is the same as the AVCR- had AVCR in my old car and I just assumed that its the same as the one in power fc boost controller kit here's the link http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121263887995 Is this the correct one for PFC boost controller? PN: 949940-6270, denso 3 bar- seems to be the same as the one used in Djetro PFCs http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/APEXi-Power-FC-Djetro-3bar-Map-Sensor-x-1-499-x001-/181162935162

The kando dynamics map sensor actually looked almost exactly the same as the apexi and having checked with the seller he claims it will work with PFC, avcr and emanage I've got the new genuine apexi one in the post today so I will put that on later and see how that goes Cheers

Yup thank you that helped a lot The map sensor is from kando dynamics, tried two sensors and both have the same issue I do have a genuine apexi one on the way, but it's probably a week away The wiring harness is new so I doubt it's that. I have a blitz turbo timer with built in boost gauge which feeds off the same line (stock boost gauge source) and they all read correctly Guess I'll just patiently wait for my apexi sensor to arrive and hope for the best

Anyone? Or if anyone who has boost control kit installed in their PFC could please tell me if they're getting around 1.5v from the map sensor when the engines off?

Here are the photos of the readings I've taken from my PFC when engines off Here's the reading @ idle

Just wondering if anyone knows how to rescale the map sensor on PFCs? Can this be done through datalogit? here's the background story My HC boost reading is -260mmHg when the engine's off (0mmHg), sensor output shows 1.5v on the HC which I gathered its correct after having done a search online and read through Paul's PFC guide at Idle it shows -560mmHg which is pretty much right. at stock boost level 7psi-ish, the HC shows near 0mmHg I have also tried two sensors- both does the same thing, also tried to reset the PFC via HC and whilst it has reset everything else, it hasn't helped with the boost reading I believe the map sensor is operational but the scaling was adjusted by previous owner of the PFC (if this can be done), god knows how many owners it has gone through. have read through paul's PFC guide, although it does have reference to rescaling the map sensor but looks like the information is for djetro PFCs

Correct wheels forward = more caster With rwd skylines 7 degree is good Stock setting is around 5 I think? I think ur caster is way off @ 3 degrees & 2 Shorten the left side some more first and work from there

Also to get more caster, you shorten the tension rod, not extending it

Sounds like blown intercooler piping, have a look at that

Yup the voltage fluctuates between 2-4v on idle Only hits steady 13.x when the throttle is open So if I had the stock solenoid on, it would run the high boost (7psi) mode full time, which makes sense Just going to run straight off the actuator for now, will test the boost controller again when the HC arrives, and just baby it til I get it tuned

89cal's experience sounds like what I'm getting, just thought that with the boost control turned off it should run standard boost off the gate, I'll wait for the hand controller to arrive first Btw it's standard turbo, so installation is pretty straight forward with no port to intercooler piping and com port to actuator from memory, installed an avcr on old car so not exactly rocket science

And still 13v on the multimeter through the factory solenoid plug when the engines revved

Didn't turn it on I'm getting unlimited boost with it off I'm assuming it's off because I can start the car with factory solenoid in place, or with the 3 port unplugged