chiksluvit

Is this on an r33 or r34? For the same given setup, will the neo make more power or are they same same?

I got mine off ebay, mamba makes a good kit comes with studs, lines, and even oil drain I only used one water line out of the kit, studs and the oil drain gasket

Doing the water lines back up can be ugly too if you can't get the bolt in on 90 degree angle easier if you just get a braided line to replace the one closer to the engine, so you just have to manipulate the angle of the turbo to do up the outer one closer to the strut tower and yes change all the bolts and gaskets, rest is straight forward

Your car is pretty quiet in comparison Can't hear the Stututututu either

It was intended for weight distribution according to Nissan catalogue They decided that bigger boot space sells better than weight distribution so it's back to the front on non GTR r34s R34 GTR still has it at the back

Ecu, complete the exhaust, 12psi and that'll get you to the 190-200 mark, and that's the limit of stock turbo Anymore you'll need to change turbo, potentially injectors and AFM depends on how far you want to take it

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Isn't the neo internal almost the same as 26 anyway?

And Would op6 high flow be too small for a standardish dirty thirty with 25 head? Mid-high range is good enough for me from the op6 high flow on rb25 and I can even live with how it performs on the lower rpms, but more bottom end torque is always a good thing

Hrm with the op6 high flow you'll also need to keep the rev above 3.5-4K to make it go like a rocketship

So response wise Ss1>old ss2>op6 high flow? Or ss1> op6 high flow> ss2? Watching Johnnys video it looks like the op6 picks up earlier?

I've done the same as what you've done and only got max 11.99v

Use the factory wiring for solenoid The extra two pins won't drive the solenoid, been there done that 3 wire/ 5 pin harness is for the boost sensor only, the two other pins aren't used on the rb25 neo

not sure how well you read Japanese but they are different stickers for the same thing

Broken rod?

Not sure why people dis the factory gauges so much, most of the time it either works or doesn't Only bad thing about it is the lack of detailed scale Sensors are shared with the GTR MFD sensors anyway, haven't heard anyone saying that the MFD is inaccurate

You need to send the thermo housing in to get that machined and bored out for the high flow thermos

Sure, but there were no specifics on the 2.7l build, so thought I'd put it out there and let him decide

Depends on what piston you've got now and whether you've dropped the compression on the current build

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402704-rb25det-neo-throttle-body-change/ R34 TB should fit on r33 manifold so that'll solve tps and keep TCS This is if u don't go FFP R34 TB won't work with FFP simply because of lack of space Other issues I can think of are: IACV, but I think you can rewire it CAS Maybe other sensors eg the map sensor but I don't think r34 PFC uses that as reference like stock ECU Tbh I don't think it's that hard providing that you keep the stock plenum, or use the r34 plenum on the r33 head? (Not sure if it fits) Even better swap the head around, then put that hybrid turbo motor into ur r34 sedan

Bolt the r34 TB on the r33 manifold? That'll solve half of the wiring problems

Built in the coilpack in s2 rb25s

Every time I see a high flow 21u result I feel like getting the housing changed over on my op6

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