THENIG

Still looking for a pair, ones I purchased as single items through Yahoo Auctions (import monster) were wrong. Lack of size or details from Japanese translation of Yahoo page means I won't risk buying another set that way.

Windscreens are definitely different, most likely won't have built in aerial though. If you find someone that supplies new replacement 32 sedan windscreen with built in aerial please PM me.

Am willing to pay $150-200 for a pair depending on condition...

Thanks Terry, I've emailed Justjap, waiting for a reply. Thanks Ravi, I will see how I go, I've seen the blue ones but might hunt around for a bit longer.

Not sure which is which, I have attached a picture below. I know they are rare and probably impossible to find. I need two but would be happy to buy two singles off different people (or buy 3 or 4 and on sell the rest). If they're not the same colour or perfect condition let me know, I will still consider.

So what does it mean if they have blue dials with orange needle, not white?

thanks Tony, I guess with 18months to wait there will be plenty of people that will test the water before my car is eligible.

Dang.. Thanks for looking that up for me Martin, I had no idea. For some reason I thought it was built earlier and something dodgy had been done to comply it as a 90 when I brought it in. Everything else is above board with the car, pretty confident car would pass a roadworthy with new rear discs as long as height adjustable coil-overs are ok.

Very helpful Ash.....

Awesome, this has made my week. I actually rang Shannons yesterday regarding this before I saw this thread and I was told I would save approx. $400/y on insurance alone if the car had club reg. I was just about to send of application forms to Classic Skylines Australia because I thought club reg. may never happen through SAU, this is great news since I'd still be be much happier doing club events with SAU. Can someone please clarify if the 25 year rule takes the build date into consideration? If so, where is the build plate that states what month the car was built? I've got two plates I can find in my engine bay that, one silver tag with '609000HCR32066791' the other blue plate says: E-HCR32 HCR32-066791 RCR32GFSM GC KG1 G RB20DET 1998 cc FS5W71C RC43 Not sure if any of this info refers to the build month. Also, Lets just say that someone with a 25yo skyline has had an RB25 conversion with all supporting upgrades that hasn't been engineered yet, but otherwise the car is in near perfect roadworthy condition (needs new rear discs), could it be put on club reg. without engineers certificate if it passes everything else? Apologies if this has already been answered before in another thread? Cheers, Rob

+1 for alternator, that would be at the top of the list if I were you, and probably the simplest to check. I remember having similar issues a few years ago with the HICAS 'stuttering', along with other weird things, new alternator fixed everything.

R32 SEDAN with RB25 & R33 box. 1450kg total with driver and almost empty tank. Only things that would effect weight from standard coupe are 17" gtr wheels, gtr bonnet, gtr rear hubs. 870kg front (959lb./wheel sprung) 580kg rear (639lb./wheel sprung) There's a weight bridge in oakleigh that will do it for you for $20

AGE, on 21 Feb 2013 - 21:12, said: Yep, will get it up. Any updates?

All sorted glazier is making one up for $30.

Shame car is listed as 32gtst @13th place, much more impressive as 1.4l Polo.

Does anyone have a spare RHS mirror that I can buy? I only need the glass itself but will buy the whole thing if that's only what's on offer. I prefer the import curved glass as opposed to the flat ADR glass. I lost mine on the first session of Sandown Wrexmass track day last December, not sure if it was because of having the drivers side window open at 200km/h at the top of Dandy rd or was already loose, open window may have created a bit of extra turbulence. Melbourne pickup or freight, Am happy to pay $30 for glass by itself. Let me know what you got.

So who won what?

Would have liked to do this but still haven't had members access updated since SnS to see the details, I've contacted admin three different ways & still donuts...

I might have some 'sedan Type-M' style side skirts, not sure if they are plastic, good quality though. Light silver in colour. pm me for pics

Is this fist waving above or below desk?? Not sure if I want to picture the later. Sweet as, thanks Ash. You answered everything for now. Re. brake bias, on closer inspection maybe I have a brake booster from an ABS 300ZX that is slightly different from standard. Don't know if its related. ABS is disconnected at the moment due to a damaged sensor from the nose of the rear diff, been chasing a replacement but not having much luck finding an ABS 32 diff that isn't from a 4wd car. I haven't been able to confirm whether S14/15 or R33 gtst diff sensor is a straight fit either but may be an option. Cheers

Ash, Is there a better price for the 330mm? I've already got 2 sets of 33gtr wheels with semi's & have no intention of ever going bigger, I'm pretty sure I won't fit the 356mm kit in. A few more questions: I already have braided ADR approved lines, will the lengths be right to work with these or are they custom? Any cheaper without the lines? If they are the same I guess I can just ebay them to someone else but would like to know before I sell them off thinking they are a direct fit for standard brakes. What is the price/availability for replacement discs? Are any other readily available 2pce discs interchangeable? (eg. DBA) I would be after the race pad, I thought I first read Ferodo DS2500? is this correct or are they generic, no further information given? I'm already running R34gtt brakes on the 32, had to drill mounting holes out to 14mm(?), that would mean I order a kit to suit 34 Gtt correct? Does anything else need to be done to bias to get maximum performance out of these, at the moment I'm locking the rears on the track since I fitted the 34 brakes, I haven't changed anything from standard, are these more likely to exacerbate the problem or remedy . Cheers, Rob

OK, so the shocks have been in the car for about 5 weeks, completely transformed the car on the road, I wish I got around to doing it two years ago. I haven't had time since they have been fitted to round up this thread incase anyone was wondering what had happened. I've attached some quick drawings I did months ago and just got around to refreshing them with the final configuration. They aren't perfect, just something I whipped up in an afternoon to take to the guy who was rebuilding them for me. Without seeing the car with them dummy fitted he needed to know exactly where to machine groove for the rears & how much length the strut needed to be sticking out etc. It was too easy to guess wrong so I put it down on 'paper'. Looking at them again after a few months I've noticed a few things that probably aren't right but they're on the car now and too late to check. R32 GTR BILSTEIN INTO GTST.pdf FRONT SHOCK ASSEMBLY (AFTER).pdf REAR SHOCK ASSEMBLY(AFTER).pdf I ended up assembling the spacers, washers & sleeves in a different order to what has been suggested previously hence why the sleeves I machined ended up being a different length. I'm not sure whether it is correct or not but it seems to be working fine on the car. Below is the dyno chart of the shocks. I have no Idea what it all means but its there to look at if it means anything to anyone else. bilstein shock dyno.pdf

Will the demand for turbo P-Plate friendly cars increase now? Discuss.. http://www.themotorr...s-for-p-platers

Appreciate the advice regarding washer that comes with ISC strut tops, placed order yesterday, 10 day lead time on fronts though, will give me time to get springs sorted. Thanks again for all your advice guys.

Thanks for the advice guys, I can see what you mean after seeing the two side by side. I found your previous thread on this topic here. Lots of useful info on this. I will email ISC for a quote on a set of front and rear non pillowball strut tops for 65mm ID springs. Im guessing you guys have already done your research and found ISC to be the easiest/cheapest place to get them? I can get some bushes made up at work to the specs you have given on in the other thread. Where abouts did you guys buy your Eibach springs from? Anyone know what the difference is in length of the front shock absorbers GTR vs GTst?