THENIG

PM sent

Yeah i've been scouring ebay for a while now looking for projector headlamps, and i saw somebody trying to pass off what looked like standard 'non-projector' headlamps as 'N1' GTR lamps, they ended up going for some ridiculous price, the photos were pretty clear and I'll be damned if they were any different from my standard GTST lights that are on my 4door, so if any1 has projector headlamps and wants to swap them for 'genuine N1' spec heaplamps, then PM me. No seriously, i would love to see what the real differences' are.

Nobody is going to remember a white hiace van, even if you park next to them everyday. I wouldn't worry bout him recognising you or your car, and even if he did jerry bout the van, he woulndn't be certain enought to risk getting kicked out of his apartment by keying another tenants car in the carpark, Report him to the EPA in a couple of weeks for having a loud exhaust (if he has one) or blowing black smoke, or even throwing a durrie out the window. You don't need much info either, time & place, knowing where is lives would have both those covered by taking note of what time the car is missing in the morning over a couple of weeks. Its a pain in the arse to dispute these things even if he doesn't get charged, if he goes around doing stupid sh*t like what he did to you, chances are he's a loose cannon and has done it before, therefor couldn't pin it on revenge for one particular incident.

They're your fog lights. The button for them is below your rear demister button just above your headlight stalk to the right of your steering wheel. If you have had projector style lights fitted to your car at any stage they probably havn't been reconnected upon putting them back to standard, correct me if im wrong but they only type-M 32's and GTR's have projector lights fitted standard , type-m have fog lights in front bar usually if they are still 100% standard, therefore this switch would turn those on. Im not sure bout GTR's. All i know mine hasn't been tinkered with and thats what that button does, i use them instead of my parkers in dusk and dawn situations, they have more intensity than your parkers, but they def. not high beams. You couldn't drive around with them on by themselves in complete darkness. oh, and they are white, not yellow, alla Silvia style.

Received brake lines last nite, very impressed with the product and your communication, thanx again Mark. pleasure to deal with. (starting to sound like ebay feedback )

R34 GTR RIMS, NO RUBBER ON YAHOO AUCTIONS IN JAPAN $1000-1300 max, maybe even cheaper, you just have to figure out how to get them here, (freight isn't as mucha s you would think)

Any still available? need 3" with flanges, for a 32 if that matters. Cheers

mark i have sent you a PM if they are still available i can pay straight away via paypal or direct deposit before 3pm should be cleared by 2moro. Cheers

how do i delete this post then?? can I??

I don't know anything bout these photo, where they came from, how long ago they were taken. If they are already up here on the forums then please somebody remove this thread... otherwise keep laughing!!

How much do you want for the Knock meter? would you consider selling seperately? Is it a wide band?

Just cars will charge you a helliva lot more to pay by the month or every 6months, can't remember exactly but i think 30% sounds right.

Find out if they can be complied first, i don't think anyone in OZ can do it at the moment, if you know anyone then post it up i know someone who was pondering the same car, they look horn from the front down low, butt ugly from behind,'

I remember seeing redline products over a year ago at 'Quickfit' tyre centre on station st in box hill, might be worth giving them a call 2moro beofre going down. Might be worth looking them up and seeing if there is a store close to you.

Yeah, that was meant to be a joke. As for 1/2" torque wrench, thats the one i would say would get the most use, so i will see what prices i can get with freight through dispatch at work.

Sweet!! I might go down and buy one 2moro, my battery terminals are loose,

I would think bout $180-200 for 1/2" 30-270Nm that retail for $280 plus, they could be less, it depends on how nice i am to the guys in sales on the day and how many i ask for.

bump

Honestly, probably only need 5 or so for a group buy, i would always expect somebody would want something slightly different, whether it be range or size, which isn't a problem, i would say most people would want 3/8" 5-110Nm (4-90ft.lbs.) or 1/2" 30-270Nm (20-220ft.lbs.), these are the very accurate deflection beam type that only work in one direction, and don't have a ratchet head, (ratchet head can be purchased seperately but not really a necessity) or if people only want a basic one with the twist handle adjustment and built in ratchet and uni-directional (think kingchrome) we sell those too. Only thing is i wouldn't really know how to start a group buy through SAU, what channels of authorization i would need to go through. But if enough people are interested, this could be resolved.

If anyone is still looking at this thread and are interested in torque wrenches then PM me, i happen to work for Warren and Brown, and yes our torque wrench's are the best in the business, they are the most accurate (less then +-2%), and are supposedly used by the McLaren F1 team, (don't quote me, it just what i have heard round the office),they are designed and manufactured completly in OZ (Melbourne), if i get any interest i will try and do a group buy, and i know what people are like with showing off with there tools so i will try and get the sidcrome ones we rebadge for them instead of W&B which not many people have heard of. Any other tools on our website then PM me, www.warrenandbrown.com.au

I know this sounds bloody obvious and im sure you have checked.... Could the power steering belt just be loose/worn? It won't necessarily squeek either, as soon as it slips whilst your driving it will have the same symptoms as you have described, goes heavy all of a sudden under load, then slips, which creates friction which creates heat and then works fine for a bit before slipping again? Not saying that thats def. what it is put i'd be checking that first, its a bit of a prick to do if you still have stock FMI pipes in the way, otherwise its a 15min job.

Will check the part no. on the box when i get home if i still have it, denso 300l/hr, it was from http://stores.ebay.com.au/PERFORMANCE-WORLD-STORE, i checked they don't have any on there at the moment but mayb email them, not sure if any1 else has purchased from this store, they are in melb, very good service. They sell lots of other ones aswell (mayb a maxima VG30 pump might be a better option to 910 at same price). People might swear by bosch pumps but they aren't the be all and end all if your not chasing super power figures, i personally know 2 other cases with '040's that have ran their cars low/dry with these pumps and ceased (much more of a prick to change a pump on a s14), i think mayb has something to do with their design that allows them to flow high rates at low pressures but use the fuel to cool them down, if they run dry something gets hot and fuses to something else (sorry for lack of technical lingo). Mayb thats why they are so bulky. The 910 i had was mounted with rubber and without, it didn't make a difference to the noise, you couldn't hear it either way. I had to borrow an interim pump whilst the denso arrived, it looked like a maxima pump (had a funny thing sticking out of the top) it was really noisy and fluctuated when you revved the car off idle, (sounded tough), it was mounted exactly the same position as stock in a mates car for 2-3years before i had to borrow it. One thing i highly recommend is if you are doing it yourself put the O-ring in the freezer like it says in the DIY section, i got lazy on the third of fourth time i had the pump out and let it dry out, it stretched and i had to cut it to make it fit, it started venting fumes through the cabin, drove round like that for 2 weeks before i could get down to nissan to buy a new one (only $5).

Sorry just realised you have a 33, disregard most of my post then, mounting issues probably wont apply,

Just a personal experience on this topic, not sure if your planning on doing the work yourself, or if your not as much of a muppet as me, i went down the 910 path a few months ago to support some minor mods (figured 040 would be overkill for my needs) but mainly for piece of mind for future mods (figured 040 would be overkill for my needs), you have to straighen the bottom the pump cradle to fit the 910 intank and saw off bout 2inch's off the return pipe so it woudl fit (there is a DIY for a 040, similar pump) make sure you can source a fuel sock before you buy try the install, i think it needs to be I.Dia 14mm. The monkeys at bursons couldn't find me one without a part number, or any fuel sock for that matter, i ended up burning the pump out after running it for 2 weeks without a sock, ran the tank below the pickup of the pump one nite, (within 5km of fuel light coming on) couldn't get the car started again after refilling the tank. I had the intake of the 910 less than 12mm off the bottom of the tank. Also the return on the 910 is too big for standard hose diameter to fit easily over, you will have to compromise between too loose in the tank or too tight on the pump (don't force a too small hose onto the outlet, the inside sheath of the hose might twist,whilst still looking fine on the outside). Long story short, had my fuel pump in and out 5 times over a space of a few weeks, i bought my 910 for $90 on ebay brand new, ended up buying a Denso pump from a supra (brand new) with a sock and all connections of ebay for $200ish, they are supposed to flow aswell or better than 040, fit into the pump cradle without any modifications, don't make any noise and are more resilient to running low/dry then bosch pumps, i read heaps of threads before doing the install myself, wish i never went down the bosch path.

Searching for a thread to help solve issues im having with my 32, it sounds like an identical problem. Been using V-power since early december. A bit of hot weather before christmas and car starts losing power, cutting out, stalling at lights, idling weird. Checked for error codes from computer, checked leads, checked coils (swapped with a mates), checked cleaned plugs, swapped firing control unit thingy on cam cover, cleaned afm. DONUTS!!! Was starting to get a bit worried, car was playing up everytime i drove, on saturday put a double dose of injector cleaner in with the V-power and car hasn't skipped a beat in 4-5 days which is the longest consecutive no. of days in over a month. Mayb its cos i push the fuel light a bit, mayb its to do with the last few tanks of V-power smelling sweet like sugar. I know for a fact that high octane fuels like the old 98ron optimax is just an additive pack added as the tankers are filling up, mayb its to do with the station i only fill up at being completly out of all petrol cept reg. unleaded for 3-4days over xmas, I DONT KNOW! I wont be using V-power again if my car keeps on its winning streak.