THENIG

I will have to check if the strut tops are going to be changed in the process, I haven't specifically asked for them to be replaced. Any real benefit? Do you remember the spring rates you used at this length? Even if they are in kg The next size down from 8" (203mm) is 180mm. I'm not sure if the higher spring rate will compensate the 20mm free length. Do you think I will have to run helper springs to keep them captive with that high a spring rate? I will get hard copies and post up a scan of the cards when I get it all sorted. Cheers Rob

I've been sifting through the suspensions forums for some time now but still haven't found the information I'm after. Car in question. 4door R32 with 25DET engine & box (2WD) Front has 34GTT 310mm discs & calipers (heavier than standard) Rear has 32 GTR alloy hubs/uprights. (lighter than standard) 17x9" 33GTR wheels & tyres Kerb weight is around 1450kg from memory. I haven't taken it to a weigh bridge yet or determined what the sprung/unsprung mass is at each wheel but I will if I need to. I've Bought a set of Bilstein shocks for a 32 GTR to match the GTR hubs in the rear. I understand the fronts are shorter than Gtst 2WD, how much shorter I don't know. Shocks are getting re valved by a Bilstein specialist here in melbourne who is going to fit some height adjustable Bilstein sleeves to each shock to make it easier for spring selection without getting custom springs made and getting it wrong. Also should help with 'dialing out' the height variation of the front shocks GTR into Gtst 2WD. Things I have nailed down: I've settled on 500lb. springs in the front @ 355mm ride height front (hub centre to guard) 350lb. rear @ 345mm ride height rear (hub centre to guard) Inner coil spring dia. is 65mm. Things I need to nail down: Need to pick a free height of spring from a catalogue like one in the link below from king springs: kingspring prosport catalogue Can anyone shed some light or give me some advice on what the free height of the springs should be to get close to what I'm after or is more information needed? Would prefer to get it right the first time but im expecting to have to change the springs either front or rear once before I get it right. I see people using a 8" or 10" front spring but not sure on if they are using the circlip to adjust height. Cheers Rob

I wont rule out weight transfer until car sees the track again with new suspension to reduce dive under braking coming soon. As for tyres or alignment, tyres were very sticky semi comp Direzza's and rear camber is stock, car has stock-ish rear ride height with plenty of contact patch on the rear tyres. Im predicting in my case its purely brake pad selection. I'm curious now to see now if I can get the rears to lock up under heavy braking on the road when the pads are cold. Will have to give it a try soon.

I've had the same problem after I upgraded to R34 GTT front calipers on my 32. Only found rear wheel lockup happened on the track though under very heavy braking, haven't experienced it on the street, thought it may be just because of the different pads front to rear or weight transfer/car diving under braking. I have brand new QFM A1RM's on the back and some mystery pads on the front that came with the R34 calipers. I have ABS fitted to my gtst which is currently disconnected but was hoping to reconnect before my next trackday so I wouldn't get rear brake lockup under heavy braking. Also planned to change the front pads to something more aggressive and the rears to something more standard. Another thing that I have noticed is ever since the upgrade the rear wheels get covered in dust about 5 times quicker than the fronts but I just assumed it was the pads. Love to hear if you figure out any easy fixes for your problem.

Les I have one located in Melbourne, available for pickup or delivery if your local, PM/sms me an offer. Cheers Rob 0403301857

I have what you are after, located in melbourne, PM me your offer.

I've had a Costco jack fail after only a few months, may have been abused when I lent it out. Costco replaced it no questions asked because there was a recall a few months ago because the jack didn't have the correct aussie standards sticker which mentions not relying on jack alone when working under vehicle. I have had another friend who bought one when they opened and its still working fine and has had cars raised in the air for months at a time with no issues. I would still they are excellent value for $160 I was there last week, there was plenty of stock but they had moved from their regular spot, there seemed to be quite a few left, however there are a few people who buy a pallet load at a time and flogs them off to panel/workshops for $250 making a tidy profit.

Your inbox is full, can you text me your details? Whereabouts in Melbourne? 0403301857 Cheers Rob

Thanks for the reply Dave, good idea about getting grooves machined in the fronts to match Gtst length. I am pretty confident that they are all in good enough nick to be rebuilt, at least I have a bit more confidence that I am on the right track. Cheers Rob

Tried to PM but your box is full. Howse $80 delivered to melbourne sound? Cheers Rob

Ok I have sifted through 30+ pages of results in the suspension section & haven't found my exact answer yet. Bought a set of Bilstein shocks with unknown springs in a pretty sorry state for $100 which are for an R32 GTR. My intention was of rebuilding/re-valving and buying a new set of springs for and fitting to my sedan. I need the rears with the 'yoke' thing at the end so they can be used with the GTR alloy uprights that are fitted to my car. Apparently their isn't much difference in weight at the rear between Gtst & GTR so I'd be guessing the valving of shocks & spring rates would be similar. I know that GTR's are a bucket load heavier than standard GTSt (200kg?) so the front valving in the shocks and springs will be unsuitable, but are they physically the same dimensions as the Gtst shocks? If I take them to get rebuilt /re-valved will they even be the right length or should I just bin them & buy two new ones specifically for a Gtst? Also if I do buy new ones for a Gtst will the extra weight of the RB25DET engine & gearbox combo over the front wheels warrant getting different spring rates or re-valving of the 'off the shelf' Gtst items? The secondhand Bilsteins that I bought don't have the slots for the adjustable cir-clip but the chromed shafts are all in good condition, the bump stops & dust covers were rubbish, as were the springs. I got the local pedders to remove the springs for me and test/inspect the shocks. They were deemed to be good condition for my intended purpose. Car has seem the track and I intend to be back once suspension is sorted, but I still would like it to be compliant on the road so I can consider using it as daily transport and not be tempted to sell the thing because I have no use for a car that comes out four times a year & can't be driven on the road. Car also has whiteline adjustable sway-bar at the front (27mm dia.?), adjustable castor rods and upper camber links. Rear only has impul non adjustable sway-bar and rest standard GTR. Am I wasting my money rebuilding them or throwing away money buying new ones that will give me the same results? Any productive advice would be appreciated. Cheers Rob

Hey mate do you have the 'C' pillar interior trim (both sides) still intact? Cheers Rob

I have a GTR rear end in the back of my 2WD gtst, I bent a lower control arm from the GTR rear end and replaced it with one from the gtst, they looked identical to me, I did not have any issue with tracking or wheel alignment out of the box. All the other pressed sheet metal parts look identical too & interchangable. My understanding that the only thing that is different other than 2 bolt subframe for the diff instead of gtst 4 bolt, drive shafts, and the important one is the GTR hubs are alloy instead of steel. This means that the have a different shock absorber design, GTR has a 'yoke?' on the end that bolts to the hub, where the gtst just has a hole for the bolt at the end of the shock absorber. Sorry for not being more technical with my description. But I think you will be fine swapping the parts you need.

Look exactly the same as brembo calipers fitted to some FG FPV falcon's. I think the standard size diameter on the falcon is 355mm x 34mm. DBA sell a two piece rotor to replace the single piece that are standard for the ford, could possibly be the same disc also, not sure if the offset is the same, i know the stud pattern is. I would be curious to see a pic of how they are mounted to your hub and what size wheels & offset you are running. I know there is a cast alloy bracket that is used to fit them to a falcon, I doubt they would line up without modification for a skyline. Cheers Rob

Hey Russ if you get stuck i have a r32 subframe sitting at home if you get desperate, needs bushings though, a couple of them are cracked/leaking. Otherwise its had an easy life. Most of the rear suspension is still bolted to it though, but can be quickly ripped off with impact wrench. Also various gtr/gtst diff housing and centre/gears.

I think successfully rebuilding is a myth,(i would love for someone to prove me wrong) I have read that one bloke had managed to change all the o-rings on his leaky abs unit, he even gave a parts list of what he used. Thread went dead when someone asked for a followup of if his abs had remained leak free 6months later. I found a supplier that sold the EPDM seals that were listed for about $30 (2 sets) with all intentions of rebuilding the first leaky unit I swapped out of my car. Never bothered attempting it after I pm'd someone else that claimed they had tried it with the seals that were listed in the original thread and if I remember correctly he said it started leaking straight away, worse than ever. I know brand new ones are silly expensive from Nissan OZ, but maybe research if the unit out of a TT300zx is the same. If they are that leaves you more to scrounge through at the wreckers or alternatively with the aussie dollar the way it is, buy one brand from the states for about $800. If i had money to burn I would probably do that.

Hey Albert, Have you looked at the 300ZX online manual, probably would be the same. it can be found here: http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi If I read it correctly it says 98-118Nm for the front, couldn't figure out what it is for the back but they are the same size bolt on skylines, both bolting into alloy calipers so the torque should be about the same. Somebody else might have a more definitive answer for you but I have never seen a brake service mechanic here in OZ use a torque wrench when refitting calipers. Cheers Rob

I got quoted $300 parts & labour at Pedders a couple of weeks ago. Not sure if they are using nissan genuine items. Probably your best bet. If you search there is a shop on ebay selling a pair for $65 delivered, but pretty sure they would be china quality. Either that or figure out a way to buy genuine nissan ones from the states from these guys. https://www.nissanpartszone.com/online/Page_Cart/CheckOut.aspx I don't know if anyone has managed to get them to ship to OZ via a US mailbox forwarding site. I wasted a couple of hours before realising they claim they won't except international creditcards. They have them for $56 each for a 300zx, but they are probably the same part number for R32, most if the other bushings/bearings seem the same (needs confirmation). Not sure how much nissan australia sell them for but I have just been comparing their prices US for other bearings in the front suspension and they are triple the price. (kingpin bearings). Even factor in $40 via DHL shipping and $8.50 for US mail forwarding from a site like http://www.shipito.com/ and you should still be ahead if u order a few items at the same time. Let me know if you have any luck. Cheers ROb

I posted my forms last week with a cash cheque for the saturday, would have been heaps easier with EFT and faxed or emailed entries, spose I will find out on the day if they accepted it. Really didn't think I would ever need a proper cheque book. Gonna try fit oil cooler this weekend, then should be ready to go. I'm staying down on saturday night for a few beers, then going to the track on sunday to watch a few friends peddle their cars around. Look out for the silver 32 sedan. Cheers Rob

Hey Russ give us a call, i have standard ECU & BOV sitting at my place, u can borrow or buy, up to you.

Spotted also on Donny Rd, was just getting back from the carwash to remove numbers from DECA & locusts from the drive back from Shepp. Man they make a real mess.

LOL

Troy, i've got some KU36's 245/40 17's that have flat spots on them after Sandown a fews weeks ago, they have a really annoying thrum on the street, prolly perfect for frying at DECA. They still have maybe 60-70% tread. SMS me if you want them, I can leave them down in Southbank tonight, they are still in the boot of my car. Offer me a price once you see them. Cheers Rob mob:0403301857

Ok we will talk on the weekend, I PAI CASH!!

No probs Dave, see you next week at DECA where you can demonstrate how much better a 32 sedan is with a 26 & AWD. As for 33 GTR rims...... I want another set for track rubber so GAME ON to find some cheap ones before me. (just kidding) P.s. I got roasted too, UV was very deceptive indeed.