THENIG

They look tough1 If anyone else is interested in buying ADV1 i think Tyre Power Hawthorn are exclusive Aussie distributor for these wheels now. 149 Burwood Rd Hawthorn VIC 3122 (03) 9819 5700

All good Lithius, I had a crack at removing it last night, had to pull most of the intake piping, AFM, airbox and a few other things to get it out. You were right, didn't have to get under the car. I took the damaged one into the wreckers and managed to pick one up for $40 , all I need to do now is put some extra thermal sheathing on it and modify the bracket so its sits further away from the O2 sensor. Still going to see the guy who was going to repair it so I can get some new o-rings and get him to regass it also.

My car does this too, whenever I leave it on a hill all the water drains out, also when I stick the boot in, the water pushes back and out the water spray half way up the rear windscreen, not that big an issue but im worried that over time it may cause rust around the boot seal. Would love to know if there is a common cause for this before I start ripping everything apart.

Hey bud if your in Melbourne I might know someone that can make you a new one, I just burnt a hole though the same pipe in my R32 at a track day. Found a guy that will repair it, I just need to remove it from the car & take it to him. Question for you...... How much was involved in removing this from your car? Did you remove it from under the car or did you take all turbo piping off and get it from the top?? I haven't had much of a look at it but its high on my 'to do list'. I think he quoted me bout $60-80 with a new heat protection sleeve on it. (plus re-gassing), not sure if the price was for just the one pipe. Cheers Rob

Free bump.....See you down there on Sunday.

Good to know, now I just need to find someone in Melbourne who offers the same kind of service.

I put adjustable nolathane ones in my car two weeks ago, i'm glad i lined them up pretty close before i hammered in the steel sleeve with the offset hole, i can't see how anyone could adjust camber after they are fitted. Wheel alignment said one side had 0.5degree more camber left to right, meh... Mine squeaked also before I found a shop with a high pressure grease gun (air) to grease them up through the grease nipples. The grease in the kit won't do the job. I think I paid $160 trade from repco. Not sure bout bout non adjustable ones but adjustable came with the kit that you have to drill & tap a hole for to fit. A few suspension places I asked said that its a rubbish idea to have them designed like this, and that they shouldn't need greasing to stop them from squeaking, if they start squeaking again I will pull them out, I have enough rattles & noises coming from my car as it is.

transdirect.com.au used them heaps of times, even sent an engine on a pallet to Darwin.

Good to hear, did u have to pull the box out again before you worked it out??

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a cheap turn flow FMIC from somewhere like justjap and fix the hole under the battery tray rather than pay to get it engineered with the ring welded in? Or is it modification to the reo that an engineer would have trouble with?

Sorry for confusion, compressor is fine, its the aircon fitting/line right where it goes through the firewall, right next to the exhaust housing & dump pip . Thats where the gas hissed out of. The HKS dump pipe is only a few cm's away from the line, should have known better & thermal wrapped it before. I am not too concerned bout fuel leaking a bit causing a fire, I have driven the car around for months with a leaky injector in the past. Heat from the engine was enough to evaporate it straight away, also that side of the engine bay is generally a lot cooler. Gas spewing bursting out straight onto dump pipe however...... not too sure.

Any news yet on how it went?? I need to find somewhere in melbourne that will repair/replace an aircon line near the firewall on my 32. Interesting thing happened last weekend whislt at a track day at Sandown last weekend. After 4th session of the day whilst car was sitting in a pit garage with engine idling, the aircon line near the firewall let go all of a sudden, hissing all the gas out of the system in about 20sec right into the turbo/dump pipe area which was almost red hot. Not sure how it would have ended if I had Hr12 in the system. Now I know it has been discussed in some detail in this thread on the flammability of Hr12 compared to the R134a. Would a hot dump pipe be enough to trigger ignition considering that there was still alot of air being drawn through the engine bay by the clutch fan? Would that be enough to disperse and dilute the gas so it wouldn't ignite? Once the aircon line is fixed I am going to wrap all the hoses in that area but am still a bit weary about getting it re gassed with Hychill. The benefits really do make it a good proposition, am I being over cautious thinking that Hychill would ignite in that situation if it happened again? I was reading this thread a couple of weeks ago thinking that this wouldn't be a bad idea coming into summer but am a bit weary about it now.

Yes I know it needs more low. First track day at Sandown, cars best lap was 1.27.10 on kumho ku36's Active aero front grille Needs more self tappers Heathcote drags 13.10 @110mph on same tyres (yes my rear door is a different colour)

Other option is R34 GTT calipers & discs, (310mm x 30mm). Only thing you need to do is drill 12dia. hole to 14mm on your hub and find high tensile bolts to suit. Pads are the same as 32 & 33. If you buy the 34 GTT calipers from the wreckers ask them for the bolts also. They are not off the shelf items, they may be available from Nissan, I haven't checked yet. M14x1.25 35mm long with 10mm shank (i think). pitch may be 1.5mm. Not a huge upgrade but if your 32 calipers are a bit shagged & you don't like the idea of adapter plates then there is another cheap option. Only thing is you may struggle to find a 2 piece rotor in 310mm dia. DBA don't seem to make them, maybe project mu but they are maybe $1300 a pair.

FYI, i am currently running RB25 with hks 2530 and typhoon FMIC tuned 17psi tapering off to 12psi at redline = 225rwkw, standard airbox & quiet exhaust. Same setup with with xr6 intercooler only made 210rwkw i think. Typhoon ain't that much bigger than xr6 but obviously made a difference and was almost a straight swap. Seems to work fine for me, I don't think I could make much more with that turbo anyway, without making the intake & exhaust much more 'illegal'. my 2 cents

What kind of noise?? I got a r32 GTR diff minus centre, half shafts & rear cover sitting in my parents garage in doncaster if your interested PM me. Crown & pinion wheel in good nic.

I had the same problem a few months ago. I couldn't get it to fit, assumed that I wasn't installing it in the correct spot so I sold it. Now looks like I had it in the correct spot but the part was manufactured incorrectly. I should write them a letter to get a refund or replacement. Most likely I will just end up buying another one. I was scratching my head for ages thinking what are the chances that it almost fits in that spot but belongs somewhere else on the car.

QFM HPX are NOT what you are after, they make heaps of dust and can squeal (mine did, not really bad though). They do work great for what you pay and I would buy them again but i would not get them if you want clean wheels. I personally prefer pads to create lots of dust as long as they don't chew through discs and pull up hot or cold. Maybe keep looking for suggestions.

I have had a similar problem with 25 conversion in 32 with 25 gearbox. I originally had to use the heavy duty full face organic clutch I had fitted to the rb20, after the 25 conversion it slipped straight away so I had to get it replaced with a 5 puck (not my decision but its all they had at the time & i couldn't leave the car there any longer). Ever since I got it back the clutch would not completely disengaging so we tried adjusting (improved it a bit) then decided to replaced master which didn't fix the problem either. My bet has always been on wrong throw out bearing, mechanic who did the work claims it was replaced but 6 months down the track the throw out bearing makes noise so I am betting its the old one from the RB20 clutch in there. I won't know until I pay to get the box ripped out again. I am very curious to see what is the width of the throw out bearing you pull out and what size of bearing you put it so can you please update the thread when you sort it out. Cheers Rob

+11ty Tyre Power in Hawthorn if you want NEW jap wheels, lots of quality stuff in the showroom instead of having to pick them out of a catalog. Great people to deal with, heaps of KU36's & Nitto semi's in stock. OTR in clayton have a cool little setup with other jap parts, lots of stuff for evo's & are pretty good on prices, a few nice rims on display, can't go wrong with either of those two. Import monster would have to be the best if you want secondhand jap wheels and want to save some coin. Would be surprised if you couldn't find anything you like there.

Thats really disappointing to hear Adam, I was really hoping someone had a success rebuilding one of these. I really want to keep my ABS, no matter how crappy it is compared to modern day systems. Mine only seems to be leaking from the top, I wonder if I can leave the rest alone and just replace the o-rings in that area that have failed? I have no idea as to how the thing comes apart, was thinking about documenting it so I could put it back in the correct order but never got around to it. When you say you had 'lots of leakage', over what period of time and were you still able to stop the car? Or did you have no pedal whatsoever? Cheers Rob

Yeah fair enough, rightly so, all bar one bearing place I went to wouldn't even sell me the EPDM (?) o-rings after I told them I was going to attempt to rebuild my ABS with them. Guess people are too scared of litigation these days. Sif I could somehow blame them if they failed, I think anyone attempting this knows the risks if they get it wrong, I def wouldn't be blaming a supplier for faulty, unqualified workmanship.

P.S I think I have read somewhere that isopropyl alcohol is good at cleaning brake fluid.

WOW!! Everybody I speak to won't go near it because they are too scared to get it wrong. Really interested in how you go with this, I am in exactly the same boat as you, had to remove my brake booster stopper because it was accentuating the ABS unit leaking. Before that nothing I did could get rid of the spongy brake pedal. Read a thread about someone rebuilding the ABS unit with new o-rings, had a spare/leaky ABS unit lying around from the first time it started leaking, got all the sizes of the o-rings from the thread and tracked down a supplier that could supply the correct type that are ok for use with brake fluid, bought 3 complete sets just incase I wanted to fix the other one & sell it or needed some spares. 6 months later they are still sitting in the zip locked bags on my desk. Can you please update thread with any further info you have? Cheers Rob

I just replaced my diff bushes (rear two that bolt to the diff cover) with the nolathane kit and it fixed 95% of my axle tramp. Only time it tramps is when the KU36's are cold first thing in the morning. Even then its not a gearstick shaking tramp like it used to be. I went about fixing my axle tramp the long way, I originally thought it was because of leaky/worn diff cradle bushes on my R32 gtst, I did the math to pay someone for labour to press out & replace, didn't like the idea of pineapples or solid mounts, worked out cheaper to buy a whole rear end from a GTR with diff & bushes that were ok and swap the whole thing myself it myself without press out the bushes. Long story short, rebuilt the GTR diff, removed hicas, whacked it back in, took it for a drive & axle tramp was still there even with the diff mounted solid at the pinion end to the cradle. Drove it round for a week, deff didn't fix axle tramp, next weekend dropped the whole rear end out again, pulled diff out & cut old bushes out using hacksaw. Had to remove some of the rubber of the old bushes with a drill where I was trying to cut because it kept binding up on the hacksaw blade. Probably only took 20min to do both witht the cradle out. They fell out with a tap of the hammer, no press needed. New ones are just greased up and fell in, no tools needed. You could probably remove the old ones without dropping the whole rear end but in all honesty it will probably be quicker, a lot less swearing & grazed knuckles than trying to do it lying under the car with a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape from only one side. There isn't alot of room to move if you do it whilst still under the car. I did the whole thing in my garage with one trolley jack & a mate to help me line it up when it came time to lift if back into place. If you have access to a hoist then you will be laughing. I think the kit cost $130 from Repco, best money i have spent, PM me if you want anymore details. Cheers Rob