THENIG

I have been playing around with my girlfriends iphone 4 all week. She put her name down at a Vodafone store two days before release, signed up online, and it was sitting on her desk when she showed up to work on friday morning, I don't know why people were saying they were hard to get or why you would bother lining up in the cold on thursday night. I wasn't an apple fanboy before, I have never owned an ipod let alone anything apple, I had my mind set on a HTC desire or HD2 when my contract runs out at the end of september, but after playing with both of them side by side I am 99% sold on the apple. We were experimenting taking low light photos with both on sunday night side by side, the photos that were coming out of the Desire were rubbish with/without flash, iphone 4 with backlit sensor worked beautifully, as good as most point & shoot cameras. Noise cancellation on the iphone works a treat, and the HD screen is beautiful to use, no smudges and really bright in all light conditions/angles. I probably couldn't see the value ugrading from the 3GS if i already had one but I would be struggling to find a good reason to buy an android now after using both. As far as reception is concerned, yes its drops a bar depending on how u hold it, but I don't spend a heap of time talking on the phone and after its in a 1mm think case from Incipio.com the phone hasn't dropped out once, and doesn't feel too bulky. I just want a phone with usable internet/maps .....................................and angry birds. Not too concerned bout 'killer apps' or having an open platform, I would much prefer to just pay for stuff & have it work perfectly instead of having to 'mod' it to get it to work the pay I want. I got too much other crap that I have to tinker with (ie, car). My early adopter mate who is also a tech junkie bought his HTC desire two months ago, after playing with the iphone 4 he almost threw it against the wall. That kinda sold it for me.

Dave, I would suggest buying the ones that Tim has linked through import monster if they are the right ones. It will be cheaper and less stuffing around & they are guaranteed not to fall off. If you still want to go ahead with rapid prototyping, I am happy to help, here is a PDF of the material specs that I was recommending they be made out of using FDM method. MSpecAU_PCABS.pdf FDM is basically a miniature hot glue gun that uses PC/ABS rod instead of glue that heats & extrudes a very thin bead of molten plastic that traces over the profile & builds the up the model layer by layer. Because the rod is made out of 100% same material you would inject into a die (because PC & ABS is dirt cheap & tuff, just don't breath the fumes if it burns) it is not the same as the material they use in the other methods Tim is describing that use UV light or lasers to cure a liquid or powder material (there are some other methods too). I have used all of these before and generally they can be brittle along the grain, degraded over time under sunlight, usually only good for 'fit for purpose' displays, they have a finer surface finish than FDM but mechanically inferior. The stuff I was suggesting softens at i think 112deg. C, has carbon black inhibits UV degradation, it is designed to be used as you would if it were injection molded if you can live with the coarser surface (once bead blasted & painted is ins't noticeable). I would have to compare the two material specs side by side to give a definitive answer. As far as Tim's experimentation with silicon tooling some parts up that softened & fell off, that kinda sucks. Would have thought they would have lasted a bit longer. Not too sure if its the same stuff that the rapid prototype places like Femero,Redeye or Quickparts use. My understanding of a 2 part epoxy that hardens at room temperature won't melt at all, it will it just burn once it reaches a certain temp, but thats not my expertise. Try and buy them secondhand & use prototyping as a last resort. I will still ring up and find out for you though for a plan B Cheers Rob

+1 Vote black, stay in the game.

If you can find someone who can do the poly resin tooling off the original that you send them then that would be a better bet. It might be a safer option to get it exactly how you want it. I use that method at work too for prototypes through redeye cept they 'print' the model first using FDM (cos the original is in the computer), then its bead blasted & painted, then silicone tooling is made, original part is removed then two part epoxy is injected into the cavity, left to cure at room temp. & removed once set. Good thing is the tooling may be used again up to 100 times (extreme cases). Parts of that size usually cost round $50-75 each (once you have paid for the silicone tool)and they can usually make two per day. Very useful for making small batch of bespoke, small quantity of parts instead of investing in tooling that may cost ten's of thousands $$$. Great thing is the plastic has very similar characteristics to normal injection molded material without any of the 'grain' of rapid proto parts, also no sink marks from plastic contracting as it cools cos the epoxy cools at room temp. This means you can design plastic parts with more 'meat' where strength is needed without worrying bout it creating 'sink' marks. Yeah real nerd stuff I know.

Careful with radiator flush, it might just dislodge all the crap in your engine and dump it in your radiator. Found that out the hard way, blocked a brand new alloy radiator after the 25 conversion, no water going through the centre of the radiator prevented viscous centre of clutch fan from locking and pulling air through the already blocked radiator. Needless to say had a few scary moments when the temp needle kept rising. Got it all sorted out before anything went pop luckily. My advice, if you have to use radiator flush to get rid of the gunk, make sure you get your radiator flow tested after to make sure it aint blocked, if its a standard radiator then its easy for a rad. specialist to take the plastic end caps off and clean it properly, if you have an alloy radiator then it maybe a bit more difficult to clean, most radiator places will be able to help you out though.

Nah they don't do design work, ask if anyone in your office can draw something for you in 3D and save as a .STP (step) file. I doubt the CAD package that they use for civil engineering stuff will work. do they look like the ones on this page?? here If they are then they wont have the turned metal look, they would be smooth. Saying that you could get your own design as a depression or embossed on the surface. Post a PIC up of the back of one when you get a chance, I will let you know if it is feasible using rapid prototyping.

I reckon this is the same guy that I saw on Saturday arvo, he spotted my car in the traffic & came over to start washing my windscreen, I said no thanks, then he started asking me what they were worth & how much he really like skylines & asking how hard does it go. I told him that they aint worth sh*t since all the P platers that want them aren't allowed to drive them anymore, I told him that on his income he should be able to afford to buy/run one no probs!! Then I think he offered me 5K for my car as I drove off... I should have stopped and got his details... Prolly the best offer I will get on my car

Can you some pics of what they look like front & back? Also dimensions? Get someone who is handy in CAD to draw them up and send the 3D computer file to someone like Rapidpro (i think they are down on mornington coast in victoria) in a few days you will get a parcel with your centre caps. They can even be fine bead blast and painted so they look like a real production part . Then all you need to do is match the paint colour of your wheels & give them one last coat & maybe some clear. Quote for FDM thermoplastics in blend of PC/ABS (polycarbonate/ABS) plastic, black cos its more UV tolerant (shouldn't matter because you will be coating it in paint) if the paint chips off you will only see black underneath. I have no idea what your wheels or centre caps look like but I would imagine that they would be reasonably small & probably fit in the palm of your hand, if so they could probably be done for around $150-200 each. Depends on the weight. Prices for rapid prototyping has really fallen in the last couple of years, we use these guys all the time, they even have an online automated quoting system that lets you upload your design and adjust materials so you can see which material & finish suits your budget without pestering them for labor intensive quotes. Shoot me a PM if you need any help with it. If you have any decent pictures with a couple of dimensions on them I may be able to give you a rough idea of what it would cost. http://rapidpro.com.au/ http://eu.redeyeondemand.com/

Nah its just the reflection in the picture, you had me going there for a while, had to go have a look at my car, it's 90' model, cloth trim not, I never noticed that the rear lights were different on a series 2, only noticed that some other 4 doors have a bigger skyline badge on the back.

I didn't know there was a difference, maybe mine look different because I am using LED globes in all four tail lights. Yeah car deff needs more low, been meaning to measure how much lower I can go for a while & get some new suspension (mine isn't height adjsutable) only thing is it scrapes coming out of my driveway as it is (Damm GTR lip), so can't go too low. Also I have a pair of silver 'type m' side skirts at home that I have been considering putting on, but would let them go for the right price if anyone is interested.

Wow! I want this done to my guards, wonder how much a panel shop would charge?? if I could find a panel shop to do it. As you can see mine needs more low & lip/flare, GTR rims almost flush with guards, prolly stick out 2mm. I had to get the guards rolled at the rear, the fronts are standard and have never scrubbed (ride height = 350mm)

I thought they may have been from fullboost.com.au, but I just had a quick look and couldn't find anything.

Thanks mate, they stick out a bit & my car sits like a 4wd, but they do their job.

where are u located?? I have gtst reo, but i'm in melbourne

Make sure you see this before it closes. It raises more questions on Banksy then it answers though.

Here is a quickly thrown together compilation taken from my camera on saturday, sorry it took soo long, youtube is blocked at work and i have hit my cap at home. So had to upload onto Vimeo Nothing special about the camera work, most if it isn't in focus & not really steady. Most of the footage was of Nutr33 (that car sounded awesome) & my 32. Was pretty happy to pull a 13.1 @ 110mph, was not expecting the car to go that quick with me behind the wheel. http://www.vimeo.com/13165941 Can't for the life of me figure out how to insert video directly into page.

If car has ABS it will have to be shorter, ABS diff has longer nose (GTR not included) from my experience.

Thnaks will give it a shot next time its out.

Brake master cylinder stopper + braided lines + 20y.o. ABS unit + 20y.o. master cylinder = Leaky ABS & leaky master cylinder. I know most gtst don't have abs but if it does then expect it to be the weakest link if you fit one of these & hammer your brakes. I'm not saying they are a bad thing, I thought it was great, I will put it back on once I rebuild the ABS with new seals, gave them heaps more feel through the pedal, more so than the braided lines. Just saying that if your 32 is original & master cylinder is pretty shabby then keep in mind that down the line if it starts leaking you will know why.

I'd be more interested in the C pillar ones, mine are falling apart.

OUCH!! What happened? did the bolt snap or did the bushes collapse? Are those bushes shown in that picture the same kit as this? I just bought this kit from Repco for $130 trade, was going to fit it in the next couple of weeks. Are you saying that they are no good?

I think you need one of these: BIG STICK PRE-SET TRUCK TORQUE WRENCH I think there is one that 'breaks' into two pieces for storage. Massive 1.4m length for high torque requirements Preset torque for "no hassle - quick use" Available in 3/4" reversible ratchet Torque range choices from 350-600ft.lbs. (480-800Nm)

Thats pretty awesome, haven't seem too many of them around, I bit overkill i would think for a wheel nut?? The wrench below is used on tank tracks & to tighten the bolts on the west gate bridge. Capacity - 200-1000 ft.lbs / 260-1340Nm Drive Size - 1" Length - 140cm

If you are serious about getting the most accurate torque settings consistently, virtually maintenance free. Deflecting Beam Torque Wrench Capacity - 20-220 ft.lbs / 30-300Nm Drive Size - 1/2" FEATURES: - Dual signal ( see and hear when the wrench has reached the selected torque.) - extremely accurate (+-2%) Or if you want something more 'high tech' this one flashes, beeps & vibrates If anyone is interested in either of these PM me, I have a pretty good hook up & may start a group buy if there is enough interest. Or how about these, find that squeak in your suspension or useful for listening for knock whilst tuning Wireless Chassis Ear

Hey sorry James I didn't stop to chat, just dropped past to give the car a clean after I finished putting it all together, didn't expect to see so many lines there. This is what I was up to just before i came past to wash my car Was just taking it for a quick spin to make sure everything was ok, wanted to get home and cleanup the garage before it got too late.