THENIG

Ok, jump finished the subframe swap & got it all back together, dropped the rear subframe out last monday, took the gtst diff into a place down the road from my work to swap the centres. They removed the old vicious centre out, opened up the GTR centre to have a look if the plates were worn, decided they still had plenty of meat in them(place seemed to have had lots of experience with nissan diffs, in particular patrols that use very similar centres, time will tell i suppose), gave them all a scuff to get rid of the glaze on them apparently, shimmed up the centre a bit to allow for the wear in the plates, swapped the gtst pinion gear over, slapped it all back together, filled it with oil & some friction modifier (don't know what the hell it is but the diff guy swears by it). While I had the rear end out i ditched the hicas, bought the lock bar from ISC, gave it a scuff & a coat of matt black before I bolted it onto the subframe. Tried installing the Justjap HICAS loop kit I also just bought onto the rear solenoid (seemed the logical place to put it, no instructions came with it) but it was about 12mm too long when fitted onto one of the fittings on the solenoid. Maybe its meant to go somewhere in the engine bay, but I thought it would be better to use the loop running under the car for PS cooling. Anyway, ended up finding a loop with the exact fittings that came off GTR cradle, its not a permanent fix but it should work fine for now until I find out where the JJR loop is meant to go. Didn't need to cut the standard GTR subframe bushes down, there was just enough thread sticking out to get the nuts on, it seems like there is a bit of a gap between subframe & chassis because of the gtr bushes having a metal collar that protrudes 20mm, not 100% convinced that this is a good thing. Just took the car for a spin to get it booked in for a wheel alignment, diff feels soo much better, just a slight chatter at slow turning speeds when under throttle, no 'clonk clonk clonk' like an aftermarket 2way, boths wheels hook up very cleanly now. Rear end feels less squirmy and even though I haven't give it the full beans launch, it seems to have fixed some of the axle tramp that was always there before. (could also have something to do with different rear shocks & springs also). Only concern is ABS light comes on after I start the car and move a few metres up the road, brake pedal feels very soft now also which is a bit worrying. Anyway overall a success I think, considering I have never tackled anything like this in my garage before. I have some leftover bits and pieces that I will be trying to get rid off if anyone needs it. old gtst subframe with all suspension & hub pieces (no diff). Bits & pieces of GTR & Gtst diff including gtst vicious centre, gtst rear diff cover gtr diff casing with ABS sensors & loom, GTR crown & pinion gears, hicas rack with lines, Nismo 4 way adjustable Gtst rear shocks & springs. JJR hicas loop Prolly some other stuff I have forgotten about too.

I bought a canon 550D a few months ago to play around with photos & video equally. As has been said before if u just want to take photos then most people say the Nikon's would be the go. If you want video then go a canon, only downside is jello effect when panning quickly, but IMHO if your trying to make video look professional best to keep the frame still and let your subject move within it rather than panning across your subject. Nothing worse than watching home videos with camera moving around all the time during the scene. just to correct whats been said before, as for difference between canon & nikon lenses, i think its the image stability built into the lense not the auto focus that differentiates the two brands. Canon bodies don't have image stability built into them, its built into the lenses (any one labelled with 'EF-S'( S for stability)), nikon however built the image stability into the image sensor, therefor whatever lens you attach to the body can be image stabilized (this can be good if u buy cheap 35mm lenses off ebay with an adaptor ring to suit your camera), in my experience thats generally what makes canon lenses more expensive (because they have more moving parts in them). The only lenses you will find that don't have auto focus (either make) are older ones built when 35mm film was around & some prime lenses so you will have to focus with the focus ring. Another thing to note is neither canon or Nikon will auto-focus (track a subject) while recording video (hence why panning is a bad idea), I think I can tap the shutter button during filming HD video with the 550D to re-focus on your subject but be warned, if you are using the kit lens, the built in microphone will pick up the sound of the gears in the AF system and it can be really distracting & annoying. Best to manual focus of buy a HD video camera. This is why I would recommend if you are buying the canon save your money, buy the body only & put the money you saved towards a proper 'L' series lens, kit lenses are a bit rubbish. Another thing you should honestly look at if you really want to make great video more than photos are the micro 4/3 cameras made by Panasonic. Look up some reviews for the GH1 and the recently released G2 & G10. They should fit your budget if u buy direct from hong kong through somewhere like B&H. They may not work aswell in low light but they are smaller (more likely to take them around with you instead of leaving them at home), have heaps of pre-programmed settings for photos & video if your an amateur. i think the latest ones even have a touch screen which can do some pretty cool stuff during filming. search vimeo.com for video's taken on the canon & panasonic GH1 to see if they are going to match your expectations. Also if you are wanting to edit video you better think about buying a mac, video editing software that can process 1080p properly is expensive if u want to keep it legit. further reading: dpreview.com cameralabs.com 43rumors.com P.S. a D90 is an awesome camera for stills, I know people who shoot weddings for a living and have sold all their canon gear to trade up to nikon stuff because the they could get more accurate/consistent pictures with the nikons. Don't let stuff like built in external flash control dictate your decision, if you stay amateur you will most likely never have the need for it and even if you do, you can buy two flashes (one master one slave) for the price difference say between a 550D and a 7D body (which has it built in) or a third party controller that plugs into your camera & sits in the hot shoe for a $150 bucks. just my two cents.

Found a gearbox still need power FC

Thanks Shane Still looking for Power FC, willing to pay more if you have a Djetro one

I am thinking power FC should be round $800 mark & RB25 gearbox around $1100-1200. Let me know what you have, in what condition and how much you want, will pay for freight if its interstate (power FC only) or cash in person, located in Melbourne willing to pickup anywhere or anytime. Cheers Rob mob: 0403301857 or PM me.

Thanks Scotty, you have answered all of my concerns, what you have described is exactly what I am planning to do. Now I don't have to worry too much about things not going to plan. Now I just have to do a bit of searching as to what value I have to torque the crown wheel and caps down to, I have a real reason to use my deflection beam torque wrench that I have been itching to use. I am guessing that I can just use the orange gasket sealer to seal the rear cover instead of trying to find a gasket off the shelf, unless anyone recommends otherwise.

Impul front swaybar SOLD!! I will start a new thread with whats still for sale soon, once I sort out what else I have for sale. This thread is getting too confusing, people keep asking me about stuff that is sold, wish i could modify initial post.

Ok, so I have decided to swap the R200 centre out of the GTR diff into the GTSt housing with the ABS sensor on pinion output (?). I pulled the diff centre out of the housing on saturday, wasn't too hard, still haven't decided whether I am going to keep the GTR crown & pinion wheel or the GTSt (4.3 vs 4.11 i think could be the other way round). Not too sure how i am going to remove the pinion gear if I do want to keep the GTR ratio, 1/2" socket set I have is too small to remove the bolt. Need to find bigger socket set. Now I need to know if the clutch plates are worn, not too confident in pulling the centre apart myself, diff oil seemed very clean, there wasn't much metal on the magnetic plug, but this wouldn't mean much. Still have no idea other than nissan to find a replacement set. I need a new gasket too for the rear cover. Any idea what they are worth? Since my car is still on the road for now, I also need to confirm whether the 6 bolt GTR half shafts (?) will fit in the gtst housing before i pull my car apart, I will need to do some more searching. Another thing I only just noticed was that the HICAS lines on the GTR cradle i bought have been crimped, wondering if they did this just to keep the lines in good nick whilst is was in storage or the previous owner did it to eliminate the HICAS, I would have thought the you needed to lock the rack with bushes or fit lock bar to stop the rear steering from floating round? If the rear rack was hydraulically sealed by crimping the lines would the rack still move?

I will let you know how i go but if i chicken out, put it in the too hard basket and end up selling it all keep an eye out in this thread, i will post a link. i will deff take it to a shop if i crack it open, still looking for any info on re: replacement clutch plates for the gtr diff. Also i think i will cut down the bushes as opposed to replaceing them at this stage, they still seem pretty soft with no cracks yet, not sure how long they will stay that way though.

i still have both the whiteline strut braces available. Send me your postcode & i will let you know how much for postage,

Ok thanks BB, Say i swap the gtst diff housing over and keep the rest of the components GTR, I may have to find out if I can use the cover off the GTR diff to bolt it into the GTR cradle. Two more questions: Will the GTR subframe bushes need swapping with gts ones or do I just need to cut the ends off them to make them fit with enough thread sticking out the other side to tighten them up? Also I i have the GTR diff centre apart, i may aswell replace the clutch packs while i am at it. How much should i budget on spending and from where? Cheers in advance to anyone that can confirm this info Rob

Thanks for the quick reply Duncan, Engine & box were from a S1 R33gtst if thats what you were asking re: diff ratio. Also i vaguely remember the mechanic who did most of the mechanical work telling me that when they got the tailshaft modified with the correct yoke, it had to be made a little shorter than usual 25 conversions because of the ABS diff. My question; This superpro 'rear cradle' bush set you speak of, is it similar to this?? I found it on ebay a few weeks ago, ebay I have thought about keeping the Gtst diff casing and swapping it with the GTR centre, but can i still use the GTR subframe & suspension/hubs? Would I use the crown & pinion wheel from the GTR diff if mine has bad backlash or are there other things in the diff that dictates this? I will check the ball joints to see if they need replacing before i do the sums to see if this is still financially worth all the trouble. in a perfect world the extra length of the GTR 6 bolt flange to the tailshaft (see 4th pic) would be exactly the same increase in length as ABS sensor on the Gtst diff compared to a non abs diff. But, this would mean that all the other people who have done this swap before with non-abs 32's did something else i don't know about. I really need to go get the other gtst diff i have in storage and compare everything side by side. Even then the chances that the electrical side of the ABS sensors being compatible are even fewer. I may have to consider dropping it off at a workshop and saving my knuckles if thats the only way of getting the best of both worlds, just need to figure out when i have the time, i have been burnt too many times in the past from workshops promising two days and taking two weeks, then the more you push the higher the bill gets.

Car is a R32 with RB25 engine & gearbox putting out around 230rwkw. One Rear diff cradle bushing is shagged (leaking grease), causing visible contact marks where it is hitting chassis rail and audible knocking over bumps. Car has factory ABS which i want to retain, it is my daily drive & i want to keep the car as safe and drivable as a daily as possible. Option 1: Install pineapples or solid alloy bushes over all four worn bushes. Easily done but may cause rear end misalignment (if installed by me) and may increase NVH. Still doesn't fix diff single spinning or backlash. Option 2: Drop rear end use hole saw and/or oxy to cut/burn old bushes out. Hacksaw metal casings of bushes to remove & then press in new bushes (may need a press to do this). All this seems like a heap of work & possible problems along the way, which may mean not getting the rear end back in in one day, & without access to a workshop that is open over the weekend to possibly press new bushes it is the least favorable option, especially after reading about horror stories of how much effort it is to replace all four. Option 3: I have been toying with the idea of shimming the standard diff and getting it rebuilt with new bearings, i have been quoted around $600 but car will have to be off the road for a few days while I send the diff off. For the same price I have a complete r32 GTR rear end which i hope to swap over with minimum fuss once i get everything sorted. Can't really afford to have car off the road during the week and this seems to be the least messing about at first glance (other than pineapples of course). GTR cradle came with everything minus the attessa stuff, springs& struts, rear calipers & discs. I also have a pair of GTR rear coliovers so i don't have to swap over the hubs. The plan was to just unbolt calipers and hang them off the guards with wire while the HICAS lines are disconnected, remove exhaust & rear sway bar, drop the whole rear end, swap the four bolt flange with gtr 6 bolt (i think) over between the two diffs (using large gear puller to remove both :see pic below). Hopefully it will press back on using standard tools. (advice needed) Upon closer inspection of the GTR rear end sitting in my garage I have noticed a few things that may cause trouble, i thought I would ask for advice before I start pulling things apart. ABS sensor on Gtst diff is in different position to GTR diff I think. Gtst seems to be built into the 'nose' of the diff (circled in green) whereas the GTR diff has a sensor for each wheel (see red circled). Are the two ABS systems compatible or do these sensors have something to do with GTR 4wd system? It also seems that gtst diff with ABS is slightly longer and GTR diff measured roughly from rear cover plate to flange. Pic below shows GTR yoke/flange, which seems to be longer that Gtst one (see pic still fitted to the car ) Do I have anything to worry about or is this going make the conversion impossible to do if i want to retain ABS?? If that is ok then my next concern is the GTR cradle bushes themselves. Gtr diff cradle bushes stick out compared to pictures of what the Gts ones do. I have read that there may not be enough thread to tighten up after i do the swap. Can i cut the 2cm of steel off that protrudes out of the bush with a hacksaw or should i get them swapped with aftermarket polyurethane ones designed for gts? This option is not too bad if i don't have to worry about anything else because I can take the whole gtr rear end to a shop to get them pressed in before i start pulling apart my car. I am aware that the diff ratios are different & will probably cause my speedo to read high. Is this correct? I have two non ABS gtst diff laying around that I can use for parts but I wouldn't attempt doing this myself on a saturday arvo in my garage knowing that the car has to be back together by the end of the weekend. Any advice on the easiest way to do this with my limited spanner turning abilites would be greatly appreciated Cheers Rob

Yes, it fit over the standard reo. No need for GTR reo.

All good found one, now i'm looking for a pair of GTR rear coilovers or similar.

I love the last post on the first page: "It was chavtastic!" If that size skyline meet was organised here in melbourne it would be described as "Wogalicious!" Cept literal translation to UK english would be "Wopalicious" wog means something else. I'm allowed to say it cos I's iz one.

Last time the car was on a hoist the mechanic noticed that the rear right subframe bush was leaking, there are marks on the body where its been hitting, & rear end is very squirmy under accelerating if i'm not getting severe axle tramp. Basically because I don't want to have the car off the road during the week, i have figured it may be easier to swap the whole subframe or rear end myself opposed to paying a mechanic all the labour involved dropping the rear end and pressing out all the bushes & replacing. I am located in melbourne, i can organise pickup wherever/whenever suits. i am after either a subframe with the bushes in reasonable condition or whole rear end with or without diff. My car has ABS so the diff is slightly longer i think, but is in need of a rebuild (lots of backlash), so if you are wrecking your car for parts but can't be bothered pulling everything apart let me know with what you are offering. Even is bushes are shagged, i may still be interested. Cheers Rob P.s i have looked into fitting pineapples or metal collars, they are not what i am after don't think they will fix my problem.

Roy this is the only one i could find at first glance back thru fotos. Some others i found going thru my mine & my friends fotos: I got a punch in the arm for this one Sometimes when people see the grey lens they let u into areas u shouldn't be in. My friend fired this and a few others off before he got booted by security of the photography scaffolding at turn 7 (i think)

Photobucket album is here: Some samples:

Steering rack bushes can be bought from Driftshop.com.au, can't seem to find them on their website but i bought some a few months ago for my 32, think they were bout $100 delivered. One or both of them had metal insert in the polyurethane, they made a huge difference to the steering, car doesn't tram-line anywhere near as much as it used to with R33GTR wheels on the front.

If u have an iphone just check the 'Trapster' app before u leave, sure a dozen people will tag the location if they set one up.

Drive or Tram? That is the question. I'm thinking that parking will be a bit of the nightmare. How many cars will fit in the showgrounds through gate 1 before its full? btw $5 parking at showgrounds, $10 at flemington racecourse.

I have a cage for a 4 door 32 if you end up going the bolt in route. It looks like would like something more substantial though by the look of that photo. Can be found here

Everything else still for sale Yes I do. PM sent.