THENIG

OTR on Westal Rd in Clayton sell & fit them for pretty much the same price compared to getting them freighted from option1 garage in Queensland. They can also get heaps of other tyres and very reasonable prices so they are definitely worth a look if you are in Melbourne. My experience is based on the 245/45/17's on my RB25 r32 with around 220rwkw. I am about 5,000km into a set of KU36's that replaced some Bridgestone RE01-R's. The Bridgestone's definitely had better turn in due to stiffer sidewalls and didn't move around as much as the KU36's do, but as far as putting the power down in a straight line the KU36's are doing a better job (not sure if this is because RE01-R's were old and possibly hardened up after a few heat cycles). As far as a track tire, the grip of the KU36's fall off alot quicker when they get hot (and need to run 38 to 40psi to stop them squirming too much), probably only good for 2 to 3 laps tops, but for a daily driven car that has to soak up some bumps with the occasional spirited drive & track day in mind then I would highly recommend them. They work fine in the wet once the shine is scrubbed off them and don't seem to wearing overly quickly. I would be comparing the KU36's to something like Adrenalin's, not semi's. Their construction is closer to a road tyre but the compound seems to be closer in softness to a semi. Just my 2 cents.

Apparently its a Harley motor with a cylinder lopped off and a centrifugal supercharger put in its place. Can u pick that the headlight is off a Volkswagen beetle?

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I have had the same problem with my conversion for the last 12 months but haven't done anything to fix it yet. (too many other things needed to be done before i could worry about accelerator pedal and now i am use to the position ) Three ideas i have been toying with but haven't decided which to persue; 1. get new accelerator cable made up that is longer/shorter (??)(not sure where you could get this done in queensland or how much it wold cost), 2. I think you can make a new bracket that holds the cable & bolts to the inlet manifold to shorten/lengthen the distance between throttle & outer sheath of cable. (could probably make this up yourself but unsure what it would end up looking like ) 3. Unbolt accelerator pedal itself, put it in a vice & bend it 10deg. with a big persuader pole. If anyone else has constructive advice or first hand experience?? PS. Oil breather looks nice but is it legal to have 'vent-to-atmosphere' in Queensland?? Also do u have to get this conversion engineered in queensland??

Can you buy an new replacement windscreen for a 32 with the metal loop for the aerial on it? Good excuse to try and retain the factory windscreen.

No its a perfect straight swap with the hinges. but you will need the folded metal upright that bolts i think from the radiator support rail to the bottom of the radiator. If you don't know what i'm talking about then pop your bonnet and it is the thing that the bonnet latch & horns bolt to. You just remove everything from it and bolt it up to the gtr one. You may need to undo the plastic splash tray under the car (if it still has one) to obtain easier access to the lower bolt. You may need to mount the horns facing the other way and bend the latch down in a vice or something to clear the gtr grill. Well i did anyway. If you can't find a gtr bonnet that comes with the upright then haggle on price because its not worth as much on the market IMO.

I didn't even notice that they named the black colour choice of the car 'Bathurst', shame those south koreans drive on the wrong side of the road.

Thats what i originally thought but actually other than the engine not that much is interchangeable with a commodore, all the tooling for all the parts in the camaro were built on the other side of the world, none of it is shipped from here (minus the DI V6 engine i think which only started being put into the commodore at the last update). All the floorpan and suspension are unique to camaro, even the auxiliaries are not a straight swap.

25K is completely reasonable, just look what you get for under $25K USD now! Just look at what you get for under 25K on the R-spec, i don't care what people say about Hyundai i think they got their sh#t together and make a decent product. Just ask Toyota, Hyundai is the only manufacturer they are threatened by. And even if it is made in Korea it will still be more reliable than my 20yo skyline. Mind you they do sell the base model direct injection V6 camaro in the states for $23K which still drives better than a 2nd hand 350Z for around the same money.

S15 exhaust sold, R32 one still for sale all offers accepted.

Sorry should have said "fill the hole in the market that the S15 left"

Just read this, not sure if anyone has posted it already, I know there has been news of this before... courtesy of the motor report

yeah they fit but have a different amount of blades, i probably wouldn't recommend it but some people say say otherwise.

Clutch sold... All other parts still for sale

Make sure u report him to the police, don't let it go as a learning experience, they might already have a file on him or atleast your statement may help the next person that gets stooged who wants to take it further. Ring your local police station and ask when is a good time for you to go down and waste their time, tell them that your yet enother person whom has bee taken for a ride over the internet from someone interstate, they should be understanding if u explain to them that you have all the info in a form that they require (see link in earlier post for your local police station phone numbers). Trust me you can get satisfaction knowing that the next person had luck getting them convicted with your help.

UK emergency vehicles not real, just a concept We just get commodores with mobile radar and numberplate scanning technology instead.

All PM's replied

I cannot comment for an R33 but for my R32 it pretty straightforward. The mounting holes cast into the end tanks of both the xr6 & typhoon cores happened to be spaced exactly the same distance as two M6 nuts that are welded onto the GTR reo (originally for holding the factory mesh) which i install at the same time as the typhoon core, with the standard gts reo it required me to drill two 6mm holes in the reo. Some people may disagree with bolting it two the reo but for the weight and size of the thing it was the best option. My setup i think only cost me $300-350, but probably the JJR stealth kit or the HKS with a similar design would be a better option for most. If i had my time again I would probably just forget the whole bar & plate vs tube & fin debate and buy something cheap & shiny off the shelf and paint it black.

There are pics HERE of my setup using this XR6 core. Few months ago i swapped the XR6 FMIC for slightly bigger typhoon core (painted black) which i picked up cheap, didn't need to change any piping, bolted straight up to same brackets as XR6 core, only other mods to my S1 rb25 are hks2530, zorst & cat, standard airbox/piping running paper filter. It pulled 225rwkw on 17psi (tapering off to 14psi at the redline with mechanical boost controller), response is really good, engine bay looks standard, no cutting of battery tray, incoming intercooler pipe remains at ambient temp even with aircon on when the mercury get well into the 30's here in melbourne, and because of its small core size I would guess that it doesn't block airflow to your radiator as much as some aftermarket kits might. If u want anymore pics or details PM me. xr6 vs typhoon core

aLL pm'S replied

BUY MINE!!! PRETTY MUCH EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE AFTER

I blew out part of the rubber gasket the sits in between the two halves of the inlet runners on my RB25. It happened under boost during a tune when the motor first went in. Sounded like a someone blowing on a gum leaf as soon as it came on boost. It was pretty easy to spot where it had blown out. Had to replace the all rubber gasket for one that was rubber and steel from a different series RB25 to make sure it didn't happen again instead of just poking it back in and tighening up the bolts again. Very fiddly job once the engine was in, bolts to pull the top half of the inlet runners were almost impossible to get to with motor still in the car. Not sure if its the same setup on RB20.

Is this the type u are after?? Then yes PM me an offer for this one

Sorry Jasmine, all the stuff that was for rear suspension has been sold. What exactly were u after?? Only have strut braces and bushes for a sway bar. Cheers Rob

Still for sale tubular bolt in 6 point roll cage with padding, plates, bolts. Came out of a D2 car from Japan, built for R32, not too sure what other cars it would fit into, possibly laurel/cefiro $1000ono R32 4 door type M side skirts, rare $250pair ono Genuine Cusco pillow ball castor rods/arms suit R32 gts/t S13 $250ono Whiteline R32 front & rear strut braces, practically new $320 R32 impul front sway bar with D-shackles & bushes $100ono R32 gtst manual standard computer, 93’ model, un chipped $150ono R32 type m front bar damaged on LHS, $80 ono (pick up only) Exedy Clutch Kit This is a Heavy Duty Clutch Kit for the following: Nissan Skyline RB20DET & RB25DET R31- 1987-89 2.0Lt R32- 1989 onwards 2.0Lt R33- 1993 onwards 2.5 Lt Purchased from CBA WA for $450 Clutch is practically new save $$ Clutch was used for approx. 2-3months on RB20DET powered Nissan skyline R32 with 210-220rwkw without slipping once. Very street-able clutch with good pedal feel (heavier than standard) and friction , clutch had a very easy life for the short period it was in my car (i don’t track or drift my car), data sheet that i have from when i bought the car says it has following specs: clamping load = 2400 LB faces = 2 Radius =7.625 Friction coefficient = 0.3 Torque = 457.6 ft/lb @ 4500 rpm Horsepower = 392 HP $250 RB20 clutch fans 1left $40 each Trust S15 exhaust and cat convertor. 2 parts held together with TRUST stainless clamp. Has 'Jasma' plate on it (whatever that means) Stainless rear cannon muffler (few scratches as seen in pictures but no dents) Rest of exhaust and second muffler made from mild steel, painted in high temp matt paint. Cat convertor is near new but is welded in place, $700ono Aluminium intercooler piping, lipped either end, 3” mandrel bent $20 pair R32 RB20 cam gears, standard parts, prefect condition, no wear on teeth, come as pair but may split $50ono R32 s13 front left lower control arm $30 Nolathane ‘D’ shape bushes Repco part no. 42150 (x2) 24mm ID/ 31mm OD 42937 (x2) 27mm ID /31mm OD D shackles, for sway bar, tried to fit but never used, comes with grease sachet $20 R32 ashtray with Apexi badge, rice up your interior with this fine specimen