THENIG

Yes all rb GTR injectors will drop in (you will still need ballast resistor), the R34 ones are natural metal colour, not painted black like R32 &R33 GTR ones, my advice try and find newest or best condition ones you can, one of my GTR injectors first time round started to leak even after getting cleaned and tested, ended up having to buy another 6 because no one would sell me a single or pair, all 6 were cleaned & tested again with new rings, pintels & baskets. Nothing you can do to repair a leaky injector and a leak wont necessarily show up during the cleaning process, if i had to pay for labour twice it would have been cheaper to buy brand new nismo ones off the shelf.(not to mention cost of lost fuel driving the car around for 2 months before i could get a day off to get it fixed) Don't waste your time with the red rx7 ones or sard injectors, they have crap spray patterns that don't atomise the fuel properly, leading to crappier fuel economy over nismo ones, but i am sure others would argue that point.

Here are 2 dyno graphs after tuning, first is with RB20, second is after rb25 conversion. rb20 had gtr injectors, rb25 are stock, other than that both had same mods. HKS2530 KAI kit (unsure which comp. housing it is but im guessing the most common one) standard hks wastegate Z32 AFM FMIC (small, xr6 core) hks dump into 3.5" lower dump pipe, into 5" stainless cat into 3.5" quiet TRUST exhaust turbotech mech. boost controller remap rb20 computer (no VCT controller on rb25) standard airbox with paper filter denso fuel pump (1JZ or 2JZ) i am getting major boost drop after the conversion in the top end, i think it is a comination of problems, maybe a boost leak somewhere or maybe too much restriction on the induction side.

If anyone is still watching this thread, my mates car got pinched from Prahran last night you would have seen it competing at DECA a few weeks ago before he got fed up with a badly slipping clutch and retired, these are the most current pics we could find of the car in the current state. I know this is not the place to post someone will be posting it up in another section. R32 GST-t, 5 speed Bright Red (Mazda 3 S23) R33 GTR Rims Burgundy GTR bonnet. Rego - WAZ 274 Any info please let me know or call Sean 0431 550 919

PM Sent

Didn't he bust it in a monster truck accident?? Or am i thinking of someone else?

PM SENT Still looking for one R33GTR wheel, or pair, or 3.

I will pay for a pair of GTR wheels if people don't want to split, name your price, same goes for front bar, with or without lip. Will arrange for freight interstate, all you need to do is package it.

Sorry to bring up old thread, Roy did you ever end up putting the 25 box in your r32? Just wondering how did you solve the speedo sender problem if you have? Been doing my head in figuring out where to get the bits from in melbourne, having a little trouble tracking down a Navara speedo sender (dont know what year Navara and being told no longer stocked by others), i am not too confident with cutting and shuting bits and pieces to come up with a reliable solution, would much prefer a drop in option even if it is a bit more. You reckon you could throw any leads my way?? Cheers Rob

Rang up Nissan with the part number thats been posted around in this topic, they said it didn't reference to anything they wanted to know what year Navara they came from, also reading alot about these being discontinued or no longer available, would love to know if there was a drop in solution, can't seem to find a definitive answer. I am located in melbourne, anyone bought one of these from a nissan dealership lately, if so would love to know where i can get one. Sorry for asking the same question if its been posted before.

still looking..

If you are located in melbourne and have a single R33 GTR wheel floating around in good/reasonable condition, i dont care if it doesn't have the centrecap, i dont care about tyre either. Also after a R32 GTR front bar original if there are any around which is highly unlikely. Will pay $500 for front bar and $250 for a wheel. call/PM Rob anythime 0403 301 857 Cheers

I always thought the black rectangular holes were for a camera to watch the speed camera. They have been installing them for the last 3-4 years at speed camera sights that keep getting vandalised, if you notice they always have the speed camera in their sights. There is one in my area out the front of a technical college that also doubled as a seat to sit on whilst waiting for a lift (wasn't built into the ground like the one in your pics but has the rectangular cutouts), i heard a rumour that the police would do a drive by anytime someone was dangling their feet infront of it for a few minutes obscuring the view of the precious money maker that had a bad habit of getting its lense shot out or painted over or twisted a few degrees taking lovely scenery shots. Apparently..... I may as usual be very wrong but would love to know if anyone has more info, they have always had me stumped as to what they could possibly be for for years..

GOLD!!!!!! BAAAHAHAAA I have just found that pic and forwarded it to everyone in my address book.

Factor in drilling out some exhuast manifold studs, which can be quite a pain, make sure you know what you are doing if you decide to drill them out yourself, if it hasn't been off in 16 years and you manage not to break one then go buy a lotto ticket. That's of course if there isn't one already broken, happened to me and ended up being a costly exercise, but could have been more if an oil gallery was drilled into. You will need a right angled air drill a good centre punch. Maybe try that loctite 'freeze release' stuff, it didn't really work for me but you may have more luck. I would prolly try looking into some other things first before opening up that can of worms.

Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago, its definitely voltage, mine turned out to be the alternator had packed it in. The HICAS solenoid was opening and closing with a lack of voltage at idle whilst driving at night with headlights and accessories on. Sounded like there was something caught around my drive shaft and slapping against the foot well but really it was the pressure building up in the lines by the pump and then and getting released sending a shock wave through the lines, it was only audible at a standstill at low revs, when i was moving it just turned into heavy-light-heavy steering as i was turning a corner. My alternator seemed to work on start-up when it was cold (14.5V i think) then stopped working after a few minutes causing rough idle, whine through the stereo and dim headlights. I ended up killing a battery a new battery in the process by dropping it below 8V for too long and it never came back even after i changed the alternator. In the process of getting a battery zapper to see if i can bring it back to life, cold winter mornings are asking alot more from the battery than usual. Its been 2 weeks with a new alternator and haven't had any steering problems which used to happen everyday.

Here is the best pic of the serial number i have of my 2530 Kai if its of any use. You may have some difficulty finding a gasket to match, maybe GCG?? Just a pic of the flange on the dump pipe that came with it and the turbo flange it mates up to if its of any interest.

Cheers, thanks mate will do. I think maybe there was some uncertainty about if the diagram was looking at the box or at the plug.

Do you have a picture of the wiring under the parcel shelf?? Did you follow the instructions in the link?? I would love to see where i went wrong?

I followed the directions that were given out exactly and all i got was really light power steering for the first few seconds of driving and then heavy power steering until i turned the car off again, and after a few months a leaky PS pump. I pulled the tomei box back out, left the shims in and the plug the instructions tell you to leave disconnected. I have no HICAS light on my dashboard showing either. I would love to hear if someone has had success in putting this thing into a 32 and having no problems with it months after they have followed those instructions, and are still having no problems months down the track. I have been told they are for R33's only, I will pay someone to wire mine in if they know what they are doing.

Sorry to disappoint you but thats not an FPV intercooler off a typhoon or F6, its standard XR6 core. Even though it probably says FPV stamped on the top. The Typhoon has an extra 2 or 3 rows and is bare alloy, and not painted black standard. Here is a link to my setup on my R32 if you want to see what they mount up like. bottom of page If your chasing bigger power than say 210rwkw then you may run into heat soak problems, that may be different on an Rb25. PM me if you want more details.

Same thing happened to my friend last weekend at DECA in Shepparton, had to drive it back to melbourne with no clutch starting it in gear. Do you know if there's anything that gets left inside the box that could be left dangling and doing damage to the inside of the gearbox?? Sorry don't mean to hijack thread..

Should be sweet then, done in an arvo. Wish i was that lucky.

Has the turbo been off before?? If its stock, and has never been off you may want to check all your exhaust manifold studs into the block are still in place before you start from underneath the car, if you pull the turbo off and and you can see that one of the bolt heads is missing, ( i think there are 14), your budget might blow out a bit to fix it properly. Alot of people leave them broken and don't attempt to pull off the manifold but the proper way to do the job is to replace the broken stud, which usually turns out into more than 1 stud, and a manifold gasket because it will def be leaking and will eventually need to be done, so you dont want to have to pull the turbo back out at a later date. And make sure you don't drill through the head into the oil galleries, seen it done before by a 'professional' on site head stud removing specialist. Not saying its def. going to happen but be prepared with all the right tools otherwise your time frame may blow out (its may be difficult to source all the required parts on a weekend). I had no idea and was going to attempt it myself a couple of weekends ago, glad i just paid and got it professionally done. I had 4 broken studs up near no. 6 cyclinder with abs module in the way and bugger all room to get a right angle air drill with cobalt drill bits and a sharp centrepunch perfectly in the middle. Glad i didn't attempt it myself. Just a warning.

Did the cam gears look like these ones? IF your mate was only looking at the A & R markings on the cam gears and came to his own conclusion that they were the wrong way round then he may be wrong. They were marked wrong during manufacture and you need to ignore the markings when tuning and just remember what was the correct direction camshaft should be turned to redard or advance inlet and exhaust cams. if they aren't these then yes the person who put them in must have been a real muppet..

BA xr6 intercooler installed with pics on R32 rb20 RB20, hks2530kai on 16psi, standard airbox and paper filter, gtr injectors pulled 210rwkw then tuned back to 203rwkw last week on the dyno. That seemed about the limit with the standard xr6 core with mods that i have, i am now looking for a typhoon core to give me a bit more headroom but keeping the same setup. if you havn't used it and want to sell it let me know. Or if you want more details PM me.